Last night I had the opportunity to do some nude artsy glamour shots in a studio environment. I normally don't take pictures of people because the pictures never turn out like I had envisioned them to. Most of my shots are landscapes and I have has an SLR type camera since 1981.
So here is the setup: White backdrop in a 15'x15' modeling area, (2) Profoto Strobes set at approx. 3/4 w/ softboxes (3x6?). ISO 100, speeds-1/125 to 1/160, f/10 to 8, Canon xti w/ 70-200 L f4 (non-IS). Sandisk 4gb Ultra 2 memory cards. I was 8-10' from the model. I shoot RAW.
First the technical complaints:
Next the technique issues:
I will probably do something similar in 2-3 weeks. I want to have a higher keeper rate this time from improved technique. I don't think its a good idea to post the pictures given they are nudes, however, I am willing to send one or two out if I feel comfortable with your older posts (just don't want someone to use them for their own gain or post them to a porn site).
I have contemplated buying a 50D, preferably used, however I have purchased 4 lenses this year and can't just the purchase now unless I sell the xti, which I would rather not do so I can keep it as a backup.
Thanks
A few (possible answers).
Shutter Lag: I noticed this a lot on my XTi (I shoot a lot of sports). I'd have to anticipate the shot and get on the shutter just before it happened. I have since upgraded to a 40d a love the speed increase.
Slow transfer speed: I've had similar problems between old and new memory cards on the lower end (two of them were ultra II). Lately I haven't noticed, I switched to Sandisk Extreme III and never looked back. Sandisk currently has a great rebate on them too.
DOF: Two things: Does your depth of field calculator take the 1.6 crop sensor into account? Not sure how much of a difference that will make, but it does change the DOF. Alternatively your camera/lens might not be focusing quite accurately. With that 70-200 (which I also have and love) I got more accurate focus if I zoom in all the way first, focus, then zoom out and compose my shot. It's a pain, but I get a higher keeper rate that way. I usually keep it on one shot AF unless I'm shooting a moving subject.
Not much help, but maybe some answers for you.
I'd focus on the face. Softer focus on the chest will not seam nearly as out of focus as faces will. Unless they are on a very close plain one will never be as focused as the other.
You know, I think we're gonna need to see example shots so we can give you the best ideas on how to do it right next time.
:-)
hehe...sorry, couldn't help myself.
Manofmayo: Shutter Lag-trying to catch a swooshy hair shot was difficult at best, as most shots were at the tail end of the hair shot (usually out of picture).
Manofmayo: Tight head shots were not tight at all. Now I need to crop the shot to get the best picture. What I saw in the viewfinder was not what I saw on the screen. Never was much of a problem w/ landscape shots, now I notice it more than ever before.
Manofmayo: I didn't notice slow transfer speeds on the first memory card, but the second was horrible, I missed many shots. Is there that much difference between identical cards (I bought both at the same time this year)
Manofmayo: I thought that the depth of field I was using would allow me to focus (example here) on the chest and still get a clear & sharp image of the face. Instead of the face isn't as sharp as I would expect. My DOFMaster app on my iphone shows I have a DOF of 1.18' . Am I expecting too much from the equipment? What do I focus on? The center AF point is the only one set (and is always set that way). I was hoping to have a sharp face and body if I shot the body. I was set to AI Focus the whole time.
A couple of suggestions/observations:
My two cents worth. You may be able to post a few examples - crop to just head and shoulders or face with back turned maybe. Could perhaps be a bit more helpful if I could see the photos.
Thanks for all your comments and suggestions, I will post a few pictures later tonight or tomorrow.
Harold
You can certainly use AF (and since your model will move and you're working with a narrow DOF, you'll want to use AF). You just need to focus on the eyes (the half-press of the shutter locks the focus), then recompose and shoot.
You can likely use smaller apertures - in general, a little loss of sharpness due to diffraction is well-tolerated for portraits.
The general rule is as stated above; the center AF point is accurate to 1/3 of the DOF when used with an f/2.8 or faster lens; the other AF points, like the center point with a lens slower than f/2.8, are accurate to within the DOF. Note that it does not matter what the aperture is set to for the picture - the aperture is wide open for focusing, then stops down just at you take the shot (which is why there's a DOF preview button!).
RE: "I do have 4 lenses at 2.8 or better, I just can't afford to have a longer lens faster than 4.0." - If you mean zoom lenses, yes - fast zooms are $$$. Have you considered a prime? The 85mm f/1.8 is a great lens for portraits on a 1.6 crop body (136mm equivalent for 35mm, which is a 'classic' focal length for tight head shots, and works for full body shots with nice compression if you have a large space to work in). On a crop body like the XTi, a 50mm lens equates to 85mm full frame (a 'classic' portrait length for body shots) - Canon's 'nifty-fifty' (the 50mm f/1.8) is ~US$100, and is a great value and quite sharp lens (focus is accurate but loud and slowish, and bokeh is poor, but neither of those should matter much in a studio setting).
neuroanatomist: The general rule is as stated above; the center AF point is accurate to 1/3 of the DOF when used with an f/2.8 or faster lens; the other AF points, like the center point with a lens slower than f/2.8, are accurate to within the DOF. Note that it does not matter what the aperture is set to for the picture - the aperture is wide open for focusing, then stops down just at you take the shot (which is why there's a DOF preview button!). RE: "I do have 4 lenses at 2.8 or better, I just can't afford to have a longer lens faster than 4.0." - If you mean zoom lenses, yes - fast zooms are $$. Have you considered a prime? The 85mm f/1.8 is a great lens for portraits on a 1.6 crop body (136mm equivalent for 35mm, which is a 'classic' focal length for tight head shots, and works for full body shots with nice compression if you have a large space to work in). On a crop body like the XTi, a 50mm lens equates to 85mm full frame (a 'classic' portrait length for body shots) - Canon's 'nifty-fifty' (the 50mm f/1.8) is ~US$100, and is a great value and quite sharp lens (focus is accurate but loud and slowish, and bokeh is poor, but neither of those should matter much in a studio setting).
RE: "I do have 4 lenses at 2.8 or better, I just can't afford to have a longer lens faster than 4.0." - If you mean zoom lenses, yes - fast zooms are $$. Have you considered a prime? The 85mm f/1.8 is a great lens for portraits on a 1.6 crop body (136mm equivalent for 35mm, which is a 'classic' focal length for tight head shots, and works for full body shots with nice compression if you have a large space to work in). On a crop body like the XTi, a 50mm lens equates to 85mm full frame (a 'classic' portrait length for body shots) - Canon's 'nifty-fifty' (the 50mm f/1.8) is ~US$100, and is a great value and quite sharp lens (focus is accurate but loud and slowish, and bokeh is poor, but neither of those should matter much in a studio setting).
Ok, tell me if this is right: if I continue to use my 70-200 f4 at 10 feet, which has a total DOF of 0.93' (focused wide open), then the focus will be correct within 0.46' +/-, even if I shoot at f8. However, if I used a 70-200 f2.8, which has a total DOF of 0.65' (focused wide open), then the focus will be correct within 0.22' +/- (total front and back) or is it 0.11' +/- (to the front and another 0.11' +/- to the back).
I looked up circle of confusion for my XTi and its 0.019mm. If I wanted to blow up the picture to beyond the limits of COC, then will I need a bigger COC? If yes, is that why a full frame sensor is better for blow-ups and not the number of pixels?
I have a few primes...the 50mm 1.8, 100mm 2.8 macro (non-L), and a 135mm 2.8 sf. My other 2.8 lens is the Sigma 18-50 2.8, which takes sharper pictures between 18-24 than at 50mm. I think the space is 15x45, so I have space to move back if needed.
Thanks again.
Harold,
Regarding your points/questions of 22 November:
You simply need to experiment with all these different combinations of speed, aperture and ISO to get the right balance - as you see it & for the photos / photo effects you want.
It is much easier to do these set up experiments with an inanimate object that doesn't move. I have a large teddy bear that I plonk in a director's chair (hence his nickname "Director Bear." With Director Bear I can simulate almost everything except movement blur and skin reflections (because of course he is fur covered). I can check general lighting and DOF (the individual fur fibres give an easy to see indication of in focus to slightly oof). Because he doesn't move I can change anything and test different arrangements.
Then when you bring the model in you don't spend as much time messing about with setup. The issues then are mostly to do with posing and light reflections.
Cheers,
Michael
s.
Thanks for the Replies. One more question: If my top sync speed is only 1/200, how can I stop motion? Or can I increase it & still freeze the action of the model dancing?
Here are a few pictures too, sorry for the delay here and the carpy pasties on the first image.
Message Board = RUINED!
I like the "covered in paint" phot very much - it's got quite a bit of character. The other not so much (even without the added pasties).
There may well be people here to give you better information on sync speed, but here's my take.
The actual flash time is very short, around a thousandth of a second. Synch speed refers to the time the shutter needs to be open in order to be sure of catching that precise moment. More than that, that is about the highest speed at which the whole shutter is open at once. At higher speeds the second curtain begins to come down before the first curtain has fully opened - the effect is a letterbox "slit" moving in front of the sensor. This is fine in constant light but no good with a short duration flash - only part of the image will be properly exposed.
Canon Speedlite's have a "high speed" synch option that keeps the flash on long enough for the "slit" to pass right down the sensor, but I don't think this option is available with the lights you are using.
The trick then is to either use constant light rather than flash/strobe or to have the room dimly lit so that the very short duration flash is the dominant light source. (This effectively freezes the action if it is almost the only illumination source).
Just a couple of other points. I think it is good to limit the amount of make-up. Because the face is made up and the body not so the difference (IMHO) can look odd. Try to have the face and body look consistent. (Eye make-up, mascara, hair treatments etc don't count). Also watch for light reflections on the skin. Skin tone is the most important single aspect to making body photographs look "right."
MOF
Keith B: Message Board = RUINED!
Sorry about that..... really I am
Thank MOF, my favorite shot of the bunch is the paint covered picture. I had adjusted the left strobe to give a brighter high key light for the previous setup, and I forgot to lower it enough for the next setup. Looking at the shot, I do notice the skin on the right hand & shoulder to be a bit bright.
The other photographer wanted the lights on, but I had assumed since they were flourescent (and overheads), the color, shadows and feel would have been screwy. I am doing another one of these shoots tonight, same place, different girl. This time I am taking all 2.8 or better lenses (50 1.8, 100 2.8 (non L), and a Sigma 18-50 2.8).
Ok so if I choose to do a dark room w/ strobes, do I turn down the strobes to get a very short duration flash? (only if I choose a shutter speed faster than 1/200).