Alan's Comments

Air Shows

Keith B — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:52:06 GMT

Yeah, I definitely would recommend the 5D2 with the wide. I love what the wide full frame perspective dose to an image of an aircraft when it is on the ground. When my 40D was my only body, I borrowed a 17-40L to shoot some interiors and even though it was roughly 24mm equivalent, it just lacked the dramatic effect a full frame 24 will give you. In fact this year I'll probably use the 16-35 instead.

Air Shows

Keith B — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 03:08:41 GMT

I use the 100-400 on my 40D and I usually take my 5D2 with 24-70 as walk around lens. Your 24-105 will be great for this. I don't think you will need a 2.8 lens at all. I use to have the 24-105 and I would say that I'd actually prefer it for a second lens at an air shows.

Most air show gates open a couple hours before the first exhibition. Just plan on getting there an hour or so before the exhibition. This is really just important for prop planes, they fly pretty low over the runways and heads are more likely to effect you on those shots. Jets usually only go so low. I wouldn't worry too much about staying over unless you really want to. Even if you don't get a spot right on the ropes you will be able to find spots where you will get good shots.

Most of the time air shows put on identical shows over two days. Almost always the headliners such as T-Birds or Blue Angels are going to be there the two days. I have seen instances where they'll have a special appearance by say an F-22 only on one day. Check the website of the air show for the schedule. They always have them online these days.

They usually only have access to one side of the runway. Nothing you can do. Most of the shows take place when the sun is pretty much over head so it usually doesn't make too much of a difference. Plus you'll find they will fly behind you too. So all kinds of shots will be available.

One other thing, when picking your spot, don't get to close the announcer stand/tower. Those will wreak havoc on some of your shots too. They are why sometimes the dead center of the runway aren't good.

Air shows are so fun. You will really appreciate your 100-400 after the first one. What body are you shooting with? Not that is matters, just curious. I'm getting ready to upgrade my 40D to a 7D. 8fps would be insane at an airshow. I don't know if I will get it that soon though.

Air Shows

Keith B — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 03:46:16 GMT

Hi Alan

I just saw this today (Tuesday). I have never been to an air show that had stands. They are usually out in the middle of a field along a runway. I'd recommend packing a light folding chair/stool, arriving early to pick a good spot along the roped/fenced off area. This way you will have an unobstructed view. The worst thing is to have an aircraft coming toward you and as it passes by for the money shot, someones head fills your frame. I usually set up my chair, claim my spot then walk around. Obviously don't leave anything of value, but chairs are usually safe. Bring a few high capacity cards. You will probably end up shooting long sequences and filling cards and there is little time to delete shots while the show is going on. I shoot jpg so I can get maximum burst and maximum capacity. So I make sure I'm set to a picture style I can trust. I shoot in AI Servo, Tv mode for prop plane usually around 1/250 1/500 or so, to try and get some propeller motion. Watch what the f/stops you are getting you don't want to be shooting at f/22 because diffraction. Lower ISO to get the shutter/aperture close to what you'd want. Jets I usually set to Av around f/8-f/11.

Bird Shot

Sinh Nhut Nguyen — Sun, 17 Jan 2010 01:36:23 GMT

Hi Alan,

Sorry it took me a while to reply.

The thing about nature photography in general and bird in particular is that there are so many lighting situations that a photgrapher can experience, I can't really give you a specific camera setting that will work at all time. Therefore, I encourage you to go out and shoot as much as you can. The more I shoot the more I learn and I gain experience.

The general rule is that if the background is much lighter than the main subject you need to dial up the exposure compensation to get a better exposure on the subject. If you shoot in AV, dialing up the exposure compensation is pretty much decreasing the shutter speed. I use manual exposure so I either decrease the shutter speed, open the aperture or increase the ISO. Keep in mind that you need a faster shutter speed to stop bird-in-flight so decreasing the shutter speed too much is not a good idea, so in this case you need to work with the other two parameters.

FEISOL

Mark Elberson — Sun, 10 Jan 2010 13:24:25 GMT

"Hi, Mark, thanks for the reply on the tripod. Did you get the tripod from the website you listed in your posts? There is a dealer, too, Really Big Cameras. Just curious, when I place an order, I'd like to go to where you went. Thanks."

I got it directly from the source :-)

http://www.feisol.net/

FEISOL

Mark Elberson — Sat, 09 Jan 2010 16:35:41 GMT

"Hi, Mark, I recall you were looking to purchase a Feisol tripod, and when I looked at your gear list, it appears that you got the 3342. Can you tell me how you like it? They also make the 3372. Did you consider that one? I'd appreciate your feedback on the 3342's performance."

Hey Alan,
I have really enjoyed my FEISOL CT-3342 Tripod so far. It's my 1st real tripod so I don't have a lot of experience. Before that I had a cheap-o $30 Best Buy one. It's light-weight and quite sturdy. I used to it take a picutre of the moon with my 100-400L attached. I was using 10x Live View to focus and it remained steady which is impressive! I went with the 3342 because I wanted a 3 section instead of a 4 section. I would certainly recommend it...the ball head too. For the price you simply cannot beat it!

400 f/5.6 vs 100-400

Sinh Nhut Nguyen — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:39:42 GMT

Hi Alan,

"Do you also have the 100-400 zoom? I have the 100-400 zoom, but I was wondering if I should get the prime lens, too?"

The answer is no and no. I see no reason why you should get the 400 f/5.6 prime when you've already had the 100-400. I really think the 100-400 is more versatile, because of its ability to zoom and Image Stabilizer.

Hi,

Sinh Nhut Nguyen — Thu, 30 Apr 2009 08:51:37 GMT

Hi Alan, thanks for stopping by and say hello.

Take care and God Bless

Nate,