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I think you summed up the tradeoffs well. With the new high-ISO sensors, an f/4 lens seems to be OK for general purpose shots, even indoors. I worried about the sheer size and weight of the 24-70/2.8, since the mid-zoom is my principal lens for travel. I like shooting at f/2 for shallow DoF, so I use primes if the f/4 lens isn't fast enough.
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I find that the quality of color from a lens depends on its contrast first and foremost. The expensive Canon lenses all have excellent contrast, and the quality difference of pictures taken with them is immediately obvious, even when viewed at small sizes. That's not to say that the less expensive Canon lenses have poor contrast--there are no bad
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I almost never use PS since I bought Lightroom. Version 2.2 is even better because now you can dodge and burn and also apply gradients. I use these features all the time now to really take control like I had it doing B&W in the darkroom. It's just great. The LR approach is so much more forgiving and friendly than PS. The only things it can't
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I like questions and challenges like this one. I always try to salvage pictures like this. This tree is amazing. It must have been very impressive when you were there. I imagine that the texture and those big holes drew you in. The problem is that the camera sees things very differently. For me, it's a never-ending adventure to understand this.
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You can use the shift to make panoramas. Rather than trying to rotate the camera around its lens' nodal point to get multiple shots, you shift. I haven't tried this myself, but the examples I've seen using this technique are very good. Congratulations on your 45! It's a lens with such fascinating potential. Please do post what you are
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I've noticed this effect in my photos, too. At least for me, my eye is comfortable following diagonal lines that go up and to the right. The bottom photo reminds me of my 401K. I don't think it's too mysterious: in the top photo, the lines guide you to the bird's eye, which is the center of attention. In the bottom one, the bird is looking
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I routinely fix up perspective in Photoshop or DxO. DxO in particular makes this a breeze and combined with the other correction features makes it better than TSE lenses for this purpose. I had good results with my 30D, and expect improvements with FF if for no other reason than the image will be denser and will be less subject ot breakdown under high
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It's really hard to tell if your lens is perfect but you should be able to judge gross problems pretty quickly. I tested my lenses by photographing my computer LCD. I used Live View to accurately set center focus and then inspected the rest of the frame for sharpness. If you look closely, you can see the pixels of the screen clearly--that is the
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I would imagine that it works like the 5D2, which requires the Canon EOSUtility program on a computer to make the change. You connect the computer with the USB cord and type in the user name and copyright info. That is recorded in the Exif data of every shot.
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[quote user="Madison"] Ken, surely adding a neutral density filter works. It forces your aperture to open up (see the video on La Foret's blog demonstrating the effect). But to call that 'control' is indeed a bit too much. It does have a great film-like effect when filming in bright daylight when you need a lower aperture though