Solar filter

[neuroanatomist]

Thanks, Jonathan. Personal viewing will be through (filtered) binoculars. Good point on the cloud cover, though with school we won't be able to travel more than a few hours' drive so there's not much difference between New York and Vermont. Given the timing, we'll be able to make a call early in the morning and drive west or north depending on the proximate forecast. Unless it's all clouds in which case we'll stay home and watch online.

There's a great little natural history museum in northern Vermont that has a planetarium (Fairbanks Museum in St. Johnsbury), that we've visited several times. It's just inside the totality (~90 s worth), we were considering using that as a base for a short drive north if we go that direction. Burlington, VT is right in the middle, but will be very crowded.

[HDNitehawk]

Thanks, Jonathan. Personal viewing will be through (filtered) binoculars.

Speaking of which, if any one reads this for pointers, buy a filter for a good set of binoculars like Canons IS binoculars.
I had both filters and a pair that was made to view the sun. The special pair was good for the kids to play with while they ate popsicles.

[neuroanatomist]

Speaking of which, if any one reads this for pointers, buy a filter for a good set of binoculars like Canons IS binoculars.

That was my plan. The 10x42 IS takes 52mm threaded filters.

[Jonathan Huyer]

That was my plan. The 10x42 IS takes 52mm threaded filters.

I ordered binocular solar filters from the same company I got the camera lens filter, because I like the idea of an unthreaded filter you can slip off easily. During the total phase, you will want to use the binoculars to see the intricate details of the corona, prominences, and all that good stuff. So having a filter you can pull off quickly would be an advantage. Or, have a second pair of binoculars handy (unfiltered) that you can grab quickly.

[Jonathan Huyer]

Yes for sure, with regards to picture exposure, you would need to be ready in advance of the total phase. For the 2017 eclipse, I didn't bother taking any photos in the partial phase. I simply used the lens with solar filter as a means to view the eclipse. I had the camera preset for the total phase, which involved using exposure bracketing. I set up the bracketing for 7 shots with 1-stop gap, using a base ISO, aperture, and shutter speed that I got from reference material. I had the drive mode on high speed, and used a remote cable to actuate the shutter. So all I would have to do is make sure the image was still in the middle of the frame, and hold the button down while the 7 shots were taken each time. The bracketing was enough to ensure that I got the prominences (at the low end of the exposure) to the intricate details of the corona (at the high end of the exposure).

I think a potential disadvantage to using a mirrorless camera for the eclipse is that in order to view the partial phase, you would need to have the exposure set for that particular condition. Then you would have to switch rapidly to the new settings for the total phase. With the DSLR, it doesn't matter of course what your settings are --- the viewfinder image will be the same. So if you're like me and don't care for photos of the partial phase, then you can do it as I described. Or, just take photos of the partial phase after totality, so you aren't in a panic to switch.

[Busted Knuckles]

Jonathon, are going to try tobhit the annular in October? I will be in Vegas on the 12th will be staying over for it.

[Jonathan Huyer]

Jonathon, are going to try tobhit the annular in October? I will be in Vegas on the 12th will be staying over for it.

Regrets, I'm going to miss it. For me, an annular eclipse is pretty cool, sort of like a lunar eclipse, but not "exciting" enough to warrant a special trip. I did see one in San Diego about 30 years ago, which worked out well because I had family there at the time. It happened right at sunset, which was super cool because we could see the eclipsed sun setting into the ocean. I hope it works out for you!

[neuroanatomist]

Thanks again for the tips, Jonathan. I just ordered the ASTF 140 for my 600/4 II, the ASTF 120 that will fit either my 100-300/2.8 (600/5.6 in this scenario) or my daughter's 5" reflector telescope, and a pair of ASBF 50's for my Canon 10x42L's. I also ordered a pair of screw-in aluminum hoods for the binos, the Canon design for the two pairs I have (10x42L and 10x30 IS) is such that there's very little objective lens housing protrusion on which to push-mount the solar filters compared to 'typical' designs like the Nikons on the left.

[Jonathan Huyer]

Thanks again for the tips, Jonathan. I just ordered the ASTF 140 for my 600/4 II, the ASTF 120 that will fit either my 100-300/2.8 (600/5.6 in this scenario) or my daughter's 5" reflector telescope, and a pair of ASBF 50's for my Canon 10x42L's. I also ordered a pair of screw-in aluminum hoods for the binos, the Canon design for the two pairs I have (10x42L and 10x30 IS) is such that there's very little objective lens housing protrusion on which to push-mount the solar filters compared to 'typical' designs like the Nikons on the left.

Can you let me know which lens hoods you got for the Canon 10x42? I have the same binos and agree that it's tough to attach the filters to it. I tried the size 50 first and it was too small. Then I went with a pair of size 70, and could not get them both on at the same time. So I decided on a hybrid solution which I think is going to work really well: I will attach a filter to one lens only, and add a few elastics to make sure it's on firmly. Then I can put the lens cap on the other lens, and view the partial phase through the filtered lens only. When the eclipse is total, I can flip off the lens cap quickly and switch to that side (unfiltered). That will be faster and simpler than trying to remove two filters from the binos. But I'm keen to hear more about your solution.

[Kayaker72]

Can you let me know which lens hoods you got for the Canon 10x42? I have the same binos and agree that it's tough to attach the filters to it. I tried the size 50 first and it was too small. Then I went with a pair of size 70, and could not get them both on at the same time. So I decided on a hybrid solution which I think is going to work really well: I will attach a filter to one lens only, and add a few elastics to make sure it's on firmly. Then I can put the lens cap on the other lens, and view the partial phase through the filtered lens only. When the eclipse is total, I can flip off the lens cap quickly and switch to that side (unfiltered). That will be faster and simpler than trying to remove two filters from the binos. But I'm keen to hear more about your solution.

Hey Jonathan.

I guess the Canon 10x42 set of binos is popular. I have a pair as well. In 2017, my sister called watching the eclipse (non-totality) through them her favorite part.

They take 52 mm filters.

I have ordered a set of these from Thousand Oaks:

Threaded Camera Filters – Thousand Oaks Optical