Help with hummingbirds

[Alan]

Take a look at this picture of the hummingbird.


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The set up was a 100-400 L, at 400 mm, ISO 400, with the lens mounted on the tripod using a good ball head. A remote cord (long one....16 feet). Aperture f/8, EV -0.33, which gave a shutter speed of 1/1000 sec. I used a custom function to focus with the "back button" and targeted the center column of the feeder. I made sure the plane of view was such that the two perches were in that plane.


I moved the camera and lens closely. This image is not cropped.


I held the remote down, to fire multiple shots as soon as the bird came into view.


This picture is typical of many I took. Some were worse, but none of them were better, in terms of a more detail on the bird.


Please advise on how I can improve on these hummingbird pics. Thanks.

[Bob]

Since you have a 16' remote cord, move the camera closer and wait for the right moment. You lack detail because you are too far from the subject. Also the shot looks dark, so increase the exposure and change your position so the light is behind you.

[alex]

A couple observations Alan:


1) the shot is lit from up and behind the bird. The great detail you would normally see in the neck is in the shadow from the head and back of the bird. That would definitely cut down on the level of detail you can get


2) even though you're at 400mm, you're not really that close to the bird it seems


3) are you SURE you had it composed so that the perches are in the same plane as your focus? the reason I ask is the the T-bars at the end of the perches aren't seen on edge. They are angled, and to me, that indicates that the perches are not parallel to your focal plane.

[Jon Ruyle]

I agree with Alex. I think the problem has more to do with lighting.


I believe you can still get a lot of detail in a bird that appears that size on an uncropped picture. (Though I agree that getting closer increases your chances of getting good detail).

[Sinh Nhut Nguyen]

Expose the bird,set up the feeder so thatthe sun is behind you and your hummingbird. I definitely want to move the the feeder away from that out-of-focused white frame in the bg. As you can see, that frame is a lot brighter than everything esle, it probably threw off your exposure and it's distracting. You can also use flash, if you mount your flash on the camera's horse shose watch out for the "red-eye" effect.

[wickerprints]

I think you are using the wrong lens.


Suppose Mr. Hummingbird there is about 2 inches from head to tail. @ 400mm, your 100-400/4.5-5.6L IS has a maximum magnification of 0.20x, which means that your subject will occupy about 10mm of a 24x36mm frame. That's not bad, but you could do better and sharper with a macro lens. Clearly, as close as you think you are presently, you are not close enough to MFD to render the subject sufficiently large. A macro lens is not just for bugs and flowers, and it doesn't have to be used at 1:1.


My suggestion? Bring the feeder to the camera. If you can, use the 180/3.5L macro, or 100/2.8 macro, and a wireless remote. Place the feeder right in front of the camera, and hummingbirds will ignore the camera as long as it's not moving and you're not standing close by. Then release the shutter from far away. You won't have to guess with MF if your subject is so close that it fills the frame and you are stopped down.


As for lighting, macro twin light flash, or off-camera strobe with softbox. Or just natural daylight with a white reflector on a stand.

[Sinh Nhut Nguyen]

400mm is a great focal length for hummingbird. Don't blame the gear, just concentrate on lighting, technical/artistic details and the bird behaviors.[:)] Good luck!

[Don Burkett]

Hi Alan


All the suggestions regarding the directionality of the light are good. That's critical in shooting birds and getting good detail. I use the 100-400 sometimes for shooting dragons and butterflies so you can accomplish your mission w/o a macro lens. However, I do use extension tubes with it to get inside the MFD and increase mag a little.

[Alan]

Thanks to all for the suggestions.


The perch was in line, but the slight breeze would slowly shift it around. Of course, when that happened, the bird showed up.


This was taken with the sun behind me and the camera. It's difficult to expose off the bird, but I'll try it again. I tried to get a faster shutter speed with the -0.33 EV, but you're right about the darker image.


I'll move the set up in closer and see if I can get the feeder to stop moving somehow. Maybe I'll try a reflector to put more light on the area, or move the whole feeder toward the light source.


I focused the camera on the glass feeder. I'll try to focus on the actual perch, since this seems to be more in line where the bird would be.

[Bill W]

Alan....good suggestions concerning lighting and background and here are a few things I've learned.


I use the 100-400 for capturing my Ruby throated HBs and this is what I've learned; I shoot no further away from the feeder or flowers than 15 feet and as close as 10 feet. Basically same set up as you, but I remain at the camera w/my remote release, constantly checking for lighting changes. A significant difference is I keep my shutter speeds much slower, i.e. 200 to 500 to show lots of wing movement and still able to keep the torso sharp (no ghosting). These lower speeds give me quite a bit of settings flexibility in the natural light also.


Couple of tricks for you; block off 1 of the feeder ports to ensure 1 spot for visiting. I've also discovered RTHBs will visit, look, sip, back off about 2 inches, sip again, look and sip some more....so be patient and catch them when they back off and look. To ensure proper focus I've rigged a business card to a wire and attach it to the port I'm going to shoot. I set the card approximately the distance of the 2 inch back off point of the HB, go back to my camera and manually focus on the card. Obviously I remove this apparatus when I finshed.


I just posted a couple of shots in "post your best nature shots" using this technique. The photos have been cropped and enlarged 100%.


Good luck and remember be patient.


Regards


Bill

[Alan]

Bill, very good suggestions. Thanks.


I like the business card idea to focus. I'll use that.


I have gotten some shots where he has backed off, so I know what you're referring to.


Do you think that including blocking off one spigot, I could also tie up that perch with a thin string or fishing line, to keep the perch from swinging in a breeze?


I think I was about 12 feet away from the end of the lens. I'm going to move it closer.


The reason I kept the shutter fast, was 'cause I thought the bird would flit so fast, that it would be best to try to capture any quick movements. But, I'll slow the shutter down a bit. Should I also stop down then? f/10 or higher?


I'm looking forward to trying all of these suggestions, and the others, too.


Al

[Bill W]

Al....positively move your aperture around to see what works best for you. The day I shot the pictures, I referenced in the earlier suggestion, I was shooting 8 to 11 (photos were 9). Use a larger AP # and experiment, this is one of the benefits of shooting at lower lens speeds. Don't be afraid to go lower on shutter speeds either....again experiment.


Re string; why not....if the wind moves the feeder that much. Also, I've removed the perch from my feeder to capture in flight shots only.


I forgot to mention Al....I use a 40D and removed the AF from the shutter release so I may activate the camera to check metering w/out changing the focus. Yes, I could turn the AF off, but what about the butterfly or bee that needs a quick focus to capture? I also don't let the camera go to sleep....for I've missed some shots due to the camera's reactiviation, though fast, the AI Servo takes another moment.


I've also discovered I can carry on a conversation w/my wife and the HBs don't mind, but if I move, they become agitated and, the males in particular, leave.


Regards


Bill