Please Critique! New photos with my new 300mm f/4!

[Brendan7]

This saturday I have had the chance to take my 300 f/4 for a test run. I did some shooting of the birds in my backyard and feeder (Bryn Mawr, Pennsylvania). It was freeezing....


Note: None of these photos have been post-processed. However, they are a heck of a lot sharper than they look on TDP.


Oh well, please give any comments and suggestions you like. I need advice! Still learning how to operate my new equipment.


Am I using correct shutter, ISO, aperture, etc for this use?


thanks for your help!


brendan b.





chickadee in tree


EOS 7D & EF 300mm f/4l IS USM at 300mm, f/4.0, 1/800 and ISO 640. Manual Exposure, No flash, handheld.


/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.00.36.40/IMG_5F00_1037.jpg





white breasted nuthatch at feeder


EOS 7D & EF 300mm f/4l IS USM at 300mm, f/4.0, 1/800, ISO 640. Manual Exposure, no flash, handheld.


/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.00.36.40/IMG_5F00_0864.jpg





Titmouse about to take flight


Same exif except mounted on cheapo promaster tripod.


/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.00.36.40/IMG_5F00_1011.jpg

[Brendan7]

any and all criticism is appreciated [H]

[wickerprints]

#1. You are a bit underexposed, and a bit far away. Try changing your settings to f/5.6 @ 1/250 @ ISO 640, that's just a ballpark guess. The 300/4L IS likes to be stopped down a bit from f/4, although performance at f/4 is still very good. You'll want to keep this lens from f/4-f/8 most of the time, and f/5.6 gives the sharpest results in the field of focus.


#2. Check your white balance, as it should not be quite so blue. I tend to prefer having the correct WB for the subject, and let the background go where it may, especially in shots like this where the background is blurred. The subject appears to be in the shade and receiving only indirect sunlight, so while in a sense what we see is faithfully captured as a bluish tone, it is often more pleasing to bring it closer to neutral. Similar to #1, try f/5.6 @ 1/400 @ ISO 640.


#3. I'm not sure how to comment on this one. Clearly you can't slow the shutter here--if anything 1/400 wasn't fast enough. You probably needed something like f/4 @ 1/1600 @ ISO 1250, in which case you're not going to see a lot of benefit from shooting from a tripod. The focus is a little bit in the front.


All in all, I like #2 the best, as it got you the closest to the bird and is the most clear. Keep practicing with this lens--it takes a while to get used to it. The challenge I tend to face with it is that it is sometimes hard to sight the subject through it.


Oh, and here's is one of my shots taken with this lens. [:D]


5D2 + 300/4L IS @ f/6.3 @ 1/500s @ ISO 320, EC +2/3, handheld.


/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.00.30.26/2009_5F00_12_5F00_16_5F00_0102.jpg

[Brendan7]

Check your white balance, as it should not be quite so blue.


I was shooting in the shade, with WB set to "daylight". That was probably my mistake (?).

[wickerprints]

If you shoot RAW, you can just change your WB in DPP, regardless of what was set in camera. I basically leave it on Auto WB 99% of the time, and change it later. The RAW image data is the same regardless of what WB setting was used.

[Brendan7]

If you shoot RAW, you can just change your WB in DPP, regardless of what was set in camera. I basically leave it on Auto WB 99% of the time, and change it later. The RAW image data is the same regardless of what WB setting was used.


I shoot JPEG because I use the 8fps burst of the 7D all the time so need the extra power. Bad idea?

[HiFiGuy1]

Yes. Your 7D can do the burst speed with RAW for at least a second, I think. You need to be shooting at least RAW, if not RAW+JPEG of some resolution. In my opinion.

[Mark Elberson]

I shoot JPEG because I use the 8fps burst of the 7D all the time so need the extra power. Bad idea?

You can still obtain 8fps when shooting RAW. The only difference is that you can maintain that speed for approximately 15 consecutiveframesvs. 94 when shooting jpeg. Those figures are from the 7D manual by the way and will vary based on what ISO, whatyou are shooting and what speed of CF card you are using. The point is though that unless your typical bursts last more than 15 frames then you should definitely take advantage of the countless benefits of shooting RAW!


As for your pictures...I think you got some good captures. wickerprints definitely had some good suggestions. I believe your 300 f/4 has IS rated for 2 stops so on your 7D you can probably lose the tripod unless you are shooting less than 1/125th or so. Keep shooting and be sure to share your results!

[Brendan7]

You can still obtain 8fps when shooting RAW. The only difference is that you can maintain that speed for approximately 15 consecutiveframesvs. 94 when shooting jpeg. Those figures are from the 7D manuak by the way and will vary based on what ISO you are shooting and what speed of CF card you are using. The point is though that unless your typical bursts last more than 15 frames then you should definitely take advantage of the countless benefits of shooting RAW!


thanks!

[wickerprints]

Here's another shot I took with the 300/4L IS...of a broad-billed hummingbird, near minimum focusing distance. I heart this lens.


5D2 + 300/4L IS @ f/4 @ 1/40s @ ISO 320, handheld, no flash, 25% crop. (Yes, that is 3 stops of image stabilization.)


/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.00.30.26/2009_5F00_12_5F00_05_5F00_0096.JPG

[Colin]

What wickerprints said.


I don't have, nor have ever used that lens, so just substitute his kick ass pictures to use as mine as well.[8-|]

[Brendan7]

Here's a new one from today:


EOS 7D + 300/4 L IS USM, f/4.5, 1/640, ISO 400. Manual Exposure, Handheld.


/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.00.36.40/IMG_5F00_1078.jpg

[Freeday]

Hey Burns223,


Images are a little underexposed in my opinion. Also, looking at the bird feeder, I think you either A. missed the focus or B. the lens needs to be adjusted. I think the DOF is just behind the subject in the above picture. The 7D should have the capability to micro adjust the lens if indead this is the problem. I had to adjust some of my new lenses up to +6.


Stephen

[Sinh Nhut Nguyen]

Just took a look at this post, somehow your first 3images didn't load.


Your last image is underexposed by at least 2 stops and the feeder is a big distraction, it's too big compares to the bird and it's positioned infront of the bird. Just shoot more, practice, practice and you'll get better.[:)]


Good luck

[Brendan7]

Just took a look at this post, somehow your first 3images didn't load.


fixed






Your last image is underexposed by at least 2 stops and the feeder is a big distraction, it's too big compares to the bird and it's positioned infront of the bird. Just shoot more, practice, practice and you'll get better./emoticons/emotion-1.gif


Good luck





thanks! Will try this tomorrow. [:)]


brendan

[ddt0725]

I know you are looking for more skilled critiquing than I can give you but from a total amateur point of view I think with this being your first test runyour photos are awesome, especially thefirst two! I did the same thing yesterday, scouted my backyard for birds but I think it was too cold even for the birds! I did get this one below and it is nowhere near as good as yours, so I am highly envious! A few less tree branches in my way would have helped and I guess the white glare at the bottom is snow!The other oneI took downby Lake Michigan. Hopefully, I get this all figured out before spring!Oh well, I still love what I'm doing ...or trying to do! [:)]


Denise


/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.00.37.26/IMG_5F00_6491best.jpg


/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.00.37.26/IMG_5F00_5130.JPG

[Brendan7]

scouted my backyard for birds but I think it was too cold even for the birds!


It may seem that way, but birds only have to keep a body temp. of 75º F and have plenty of down so they are very resistant to cold. I completely understand what you mean: I live in Pennsylvania and right now it is 9ºF, so not warm here either. I would try putting a feeder in your yard. They are easy to take care of and believe me, that in three days you will be mobbed with birds. Ideally put one just outside a big window so you don't have to go outside (just open the window!)



A few less tree branches in my way would have helped and I guess the white glare at the bottom is snow


I am always fighting these two factors. If branches are a problem, get a different angle. If snow, clouds, sun, etc. are obscuring, just change the white balance. this will help. [:)]


one last one for today (my hands are freezing off)


I know, the birdfeeder is distracting... but I love the two-tone bokeh.


Canon 7D, 300mm f/4l is usm, f/4, 1/800, ISO 800. taken at 7:56AM this morning.


/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.00.36.40/IMG_5F00_1226.jpg








brendan

[Brendan7]

I think with this being your first test runyour photos are awesome, especially thefirst two!


thanks! I am as much (if not more) of a newbie as you at this and TDP is a real help...


Filling the birdfeeder and buying all that seed is starting to pay off.

[wickerprints]

This is a much improved photo I think, just on the white balance alone. I don't mind the composition either, though it might be better if made centered and symmetrical. Some people like asymmetry, and it works well in a lot of cases, but that doesn't mean every photo has to be asymmetrical or obey some crazy rule of thirds.


This is going to be a bit more advanced but if you have a Speedlite, you can put it off camera, bounce it off an umbrella, and fill in the shadow on the right side of the feeder. I used this technique to get a nice soft modeling on my hummingbird shots. The great thing about the 7D is that the built-in flash has master capability. However, you may need to gel your Speedlite if you do this. And yet, there's something to be said for the light/dark contrast in this image. I like that there is a directionality to the lighting, it gives a sense of the morning atmosphere along with the warm tones of the background...the overall effect is very pleasing. I also like that you did not choose to obscure the feeder.


Have you tried experimenting with how slow you can make your shutter before the subject's motion becomes blurred? I get the sense that you can lower your ISO by at least 1 full stop. I often find myself prioritizing aperture and ISO over shutter speed, although I must admit I tend to miss shots this way. But when I do hit it, I get some very nice, sharp, usable images. If only there were a way to set up the camera so that I can fix one setting (say, f-number), meter the scene, and the camera will automatically vary the shutter/ISO in quick succession; e.g., 1/100 @ ISO 100, then 1/200 @ ISO 200, then 1/400 @ ISO 400, etc., in half- or third-stop increments. Or you could pick a fixed ISO and the camera would vary the f-number and shutter speed. That would be AWESOME. Because with the way digital sensors work now, sensitivity is just as easy to adjust as f-number and shutter speed.

[Brendan7]

thanks for all that great advice. much appreciated.


brendan

[Brendan7]

Have you tried experimenting with how slow you can make your shutter before the subject's motion becomes blurred?


That depends on the bird. With BIF such as hawks, vultures I can lower shutter speed to about 1/500 without IS and 1/320 with.


For titmice and chickadees (like the ones in the above photos) things start to get blurry at about 1/1000.



get the sense that you can lower your ISO by at least 1 full stop.


Nice! I'll try that next.


thanks again for your help [H]


brendan