$2500 for canon slr and lens(es)

[rebeccaw]

Hi all!


I

[HDNitehawk]

Glass holds value, Digital cameras get up graded every 3 years so if you put all the money in a camera and not your lens in three years you have an outdated model a cheap lens. Where if you have a cheap camera and good glass, you have a good lens for a long time.


With your budget it eliminates the full framed bodies like the 5d mark II that sells for around $2400. That said with the cameras you get what you pay for, next down would be the 7D which a lot of people on this forum love. Next the 60D which replaces the 50D...so I wouldn

[clemmb]

Welcome to the forum


Go with the Canon 7D and the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM. $2,551 from B&H


Only $51 over your budget and a super great setup.


Or you could get the 7D from Adorama

[nickds7]

Go with the Canon 7D and the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM. $2,551 from B&H









You can also piece this kit new from amazon for $100 less. Body from amazon and lens from adorama.

I opted for the 24-70 over the 17-55 because the price was right. ($1150 new, us market) and because the extra zoom feels worth it.

It's important to consider what you are going to be shooting. 17mm feels quite wide on a crop sensor camera and 24mm doesn't feel that wide angle at all.

[JJphoto]

Hi! rebeccaw, this is what i am thinking...


1, if you don't shoot a lot of fast moving subjects(e.g. BIF), 7D maybe over killed, i would go with 60D


2.
I would be shooting candid portraits mostly outdoors (some indoors such as a friend's house, not a studio setting).


there are some nice lenses will fit you need like 24-105, 70-200, etc. but there is a must recommend lens is the 85mm 1.8. this is a great lens for candid shot even in lower light. this is not a zoom, but you can always move your feet and/or crop. if you buy 60D instead of 7D, the saved money can at least get you this lens.


I will agree with somebody has said in this forum, better buy 1 or 2 lenses first, take your time use it and get to know the lens and find if you have new needs, then move on to another lens.


just my 2 cents.

[Fast Glass]

Unless you need speed I would opt for a T2i and a 24-70mm f/2.8and 70-200mm f/4, and if you want f/2.8 on the long end get a Tamron for Sigma 70-200mm for a little more.


If you do not want to upgrade in the futuretoo full-frame then I would getthe 17-55mm f/2.8 IS.


It makes no sense to buy a faster body with the same IQ when you don't need speed.


John.

[JJphoto]

Unless you need speed I would opt for a T2i


the only thing I don't like the rebel is the shutter lag, too long,to me, that's a deal breaker. i don't mind have one as a back up body though.

[nickds7]

Unless you need speed I would opt for a T2i


the only thing I don't like the rebel is the shutter lag, too long,to me, that's a deal breaker. i don't mind have one as a back up body though.






Theres a lot things that differentiate the xxxD bodies. It is hard to say until you actually use both. Viewfinder, buttons, screen, shutter lag, af, larger grip (still not large enough, damn canon) . You might want to visit a store and try both, I think best buy has a 7d on display...not sure though.

[btaylor]

Hi Rebecca, welcome.


I'd go with the 50D or 60D. As JJ mentioned, I think the 7D would be overkill and you get a lot of the same features with the 50D / 60D anyway. The 7D has its advantages in terms of frames per second etc but I don't think that will be your primary requirement.


I would head for one of the xxD models over the rebels/T2i for 2 main reasons:


- build quality is much better in the xxD models


- the 50D/60D both have autofocus microadjustment (which the rebels/T2i don't) and I consider this one of the most important features on my 5D2.


If you can afford it the 60D it does have some advantages over the 50D including a newer autofocus system, full HD movie mode (if that interests you) and it takes SD cards (instead of CF cards) which are generally cheaper.


In terms of lenses I think the Canon 85mm f/1.8 is a good suggestion and is a popular portrait lens. The EF-SCanon 17-55mm f/2.8 IS is also an outstanding lens. I would also get a speedlite (flash) and the 430 ex II is a fantastic mid range speedlite. Getting a handle on shooting with a flash effectivelyis very important part of portrait photography so why not start learning from the word go.


If I were in your position I'd go with the 60D, 17-55mm f/2.8 IS, Canon 430 EX II speedliteand a Sandisk Extreme 16 GB SDHC memorycard. This would set you back $2488.95 at B & H.


That would keep you going for some time as there's a lot of potential in this combo. The only problem with this setup is that if you want to upgrade to a full frame camera in the future the 17-55mm f/2.8 is not compatible so you'd have to upgrade. By that stage though I'm sure you'll have a good idea where you want to head.


Hope this helps anyway,


Cheers, Ben.

[Fast Glass]

- build quality is much better in the xxD models



True, but I have droped my XTi multiple timeson concrete and it just bounces! Build for an ameture is no big deal.



- the 50D/60D both have autofocus microadjustment (which the rebels/T2i don't) and I consider this one of the most important features on my 5D2.


The 60D does NOT have AF microadjustment while the 50D does, that's partly why I didn't recomend it.



and it takes SD cards (instead of CF cards) which are generally cheaper.


But slower. Memory is cheap buy more!



If I were in your position I'd go with the 60D, 17-55mm f/2.8 IS, Canon 430 EX II speedliteand a Sandisk Extreme 16 GB SDHC memorycard. This would set you back $2488.95 at B & H.


That set up would be FAR more limiting than a T2i and 17-55mm or 24-70mm and 70-200mm. It's no fun to be stuk only with a standard range lens, I shot for two years with only the 18-55mm kit lens and that focal length range is usefull but also limiting and gets borring after a while!


John.

[Fast Glass]

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Unless you need speed I would opt for a T2i


the only thing I don't like the rebel is the shutter lag, too long,to me, that's a deal breaker. i don't mind have one as a back up body though.
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Unless you shoot action that differance is negligeble. I havenever missed a shot becuase of it, unless the subject is moving very fast. Actually the only time I ever missed a shot do to shutter lag was when I got my Minolta 600mm f/6.3shooting birdsand onlytwo shots were missed the whole time I'veowned it!


John.

[JJphoto]

John, I think it

[Fast Glass]

it's very easy to miss a moment especially shooting candid shots of kids.


I've shot that too and never missed a shot becuase of shutter lag. The only time you will miss a shot becuase of shutter lag is if the subject is moving very fast, such as in sports or fast moving wildlife and birds.


John.

[Richard Lane]

- the 50D/60D both have autofocus microadjustment (which the rebels/T2i don't) and I consider this one of the most important features on my 5D2.






As Ben has stated the AF Micro-adjustment is nice, however, I don't believe that the 60D has this feature as this time. There are some hopes though, that it may be added via a firmware update in the future.


All excellent suggestions so far, here are my thoughts!


You sound very passionate about it and you did mention, possible business aspirations, so if you do get the 7D, you will probably never need anything more out of the body. If you get the 60D(un-weathersealed body?), you may eventually be longing for more, like faster shutter speeds or AF micro-adjustment. Regarding AF-microadjustment, it allows the consumer to fine tune/calibrate each Lens with their specific Body, as all lenses and bodies seem to have some "acceptable variations" in accuracy and repeatability. The 7D also has a 100% viewfinder vs. 96% VF on the 60D. The 7D also has 19pt. f/2.8 Auto focus cross type system vs. 9pt. f/2.8 AF cross type on the 60D.


I would recommend the 7D $1500 with the EF-24-105 f/4L IS (Image Stabilization) $1059, this is a very nice focal range to start off with, plus the 7D offers higher shutter speed capability coupled to a more elaborate AF system and weather/dust sealing for the body and lens, and if you do decide to upgrade to FF some day, then the EF-Lenses are FF friendly. The 7D and 60D both have a pop-up flash that you could use temporarily until you could acquire a 430EX or 580EX flash. If you do use the pop-up flash then I would buy a flash diffuser for it, they are dirt cheap. The 17-55 f/2.8 IS is also a good choice, but is too short for outdoor candid portraits and I would miss the longer focal length and weather-sealing of the 24-105 and I would sacrifice the 17-23mm focal range and the f/2.8 stop, because the 2.8 is still not wide enough for low light indoor ambient lighting.


Then, later..., depending on your needs of course, the next lens to consider would be a low-light light indoor lens like the 50/1.4 ($340) or 85/1.8 ($370 a little long for group shots inside on a crop body, great for solo shots though).


After that I would get the best 70-200mm f/2.8 lens that you can afford (plus a 1.4X for X-Mas) even though there is some overlap with the 24-105 range this lens doubles that focal length, light capture and speed, and with the 2X extender capability it could double the focal length a second time; or a 100-400mm, and then lastly the10-22mm EF-S (non-weathersealed, no other option available, 1.6x Crop Mount only) that takes excellent wide angle pictures.


Rich

[Daniel Browning]

I would be shooting candid portraits mostly outdoors (some indoors such as a friend's house, not a studio setting).I only have $2500 to spend on a camera and lens(es).





For $2,500, the ultimate outdoor candid portrait combination would be this:


Canon 7D, $1500


Canon 135mm f/2, $1000


Here's why that lens:

Bokeh:The 135 is really a specially lens -- the bokeh wide open is just gorgeous.
Very little background: The long focal length will allow you to cut out a lot of background
Very blurred background: Whatever is left of the background will be blurred very diffusely.
Defocus control: with a wide f/2 aperture, you can control how much of the image will be in focus.
Perspective: with 135mm, you can be distance enough for a nice perspective in an extreme closeup (ECU) -- shorter lenses can't do that. The downside is that full-body portraits will have a flattened perspective.



That said, perhaps spending the whole budget on the "ultimate" is not the best option. In fact, I would suggest something a little more pedestrian:


Canon 60D, $1100


Canon 85mm f/1.8,$370


That's only $1470, but it will still make excellent outdoor portraits and will be more useful indoors (where the 135 is not). That leaves you $1,000 for other lenses and accessories. You could get the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 for $420 orCanon EF-S 55-250 for $230, or a flash, etc.


Hope that helps.

[neuroanatomist]

Hi Rebecca, and welcome to the TDP forums!


Sorry for the long forthcoming post, but I know from fairly recent experience that this is a difficult decision so it's one you want to get right the first time!



I read about suggestions on which camera and lens to purchase, the more confused I get. I read a lot about getting a less expensive camera and better lenses, but there are never any suggestions of actual cameras and lenses. I would be shooting candid portraits mostly outdoors (some indoors such as a friend's house, not a studio setting). I only have $2500 to spend on a camera and lens(es).


I'll start with my recommendation, then launch into the details. I'd recommend:

EOS 50D - $930
EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM - $1100
EF 85mm f/1.8 USM - $400
Speedlite 430EX II - $280



First off, that exceeds your budget by $210. There are a couple of solutions to that issue. First, you may notice the total of the two lens prices I give is $60 higher than current retail pricing - that's because I include the dedicated lens hoods in the cost. If you'll be shooting outdoors, you'll want the hoods - they prevent flare and increase the contrast and saturation of your images. But, those would also make nice birthday/Christmas presents. Second, if you can wait a few weeks for the purchase, Canon usually launches lens/flash rebates in mid-late October, and the 17-55mm and 430EX II are often on the list (typically $70 and $30, respectively). As a side note, apparently rebates are about to be announced on the 7D and some Rebel cameras, although the Rebel rebates require kit lenses to be purchased, which means the cheap kit lenses are essentially free but doesn't really save you $ on the body, and you don't want the kit lenses (see below).


People around here generally recommend better lenses before a better body, and that's for good reason. The lens has a much greater impact on image quality than the body. Consider - the three 'current' crop-sensor bodies - the T2i, the 60D, and the 7D - all use the exact same sensor. So, on a basic level, image quality is the same from all three, despite a several hundred dollar price difference. That difference buys you extra build quality, better autofocus systems, faster frame rates, etc. All important and useful, but the bottom line is that you'll get a better result with a Rebel body and a good lens than with a 7D and a cheap consumer zoom lens.


I should say that you can take portraits with a Rebel and a kit lens. Very nice portraits, actually, in the right setting. But, that setting is a studio. From a technical standpoint (as opposed to artistic elements, composition, etc.), the most important factor that makes a good portrait is lighting. The second most important factor is the background. In a studio, you have complete control over lighting and background. That's why if you walk into a 'typical' consumer portrait studio (Sears, Target, etc.), you'll often see them using a Rebel or the Nikon equivalent, and the kit lens. But in addition, they've got radio-triggered studio strobes in large softboxes, and pull-down backdrops. That compensates for the narrow apertures of a kit lens - and at f/8, those lenses actually perform very well. If you want to shoot outside of a studio, you need to make your own light, and you need to be able to control the background blur, best done through the use of a wide aperture lens.


Ok, now let's walk through the choices I recommend:


50D body. It's not the newest xxD body, that's true - but although the 60D has a higher resolution sensor (18 vs. 15 megapixles), it gives up one important feature - autofocus (AF) microadjustment. That was one reason I upgraded from a T1i to a 7D. AF Microadjustment is a capability to calibrate the camera's AF system for specific lenses. This corrects for front- or back-focusing that can occur in some lenses, due to manufacturing tolerances. See L II USM (a very expensive lens!). But for me, when I go out to shoot portraits (mostly of my daughter), the two lenses I take are the 17-55mm and the 85L.


One other minor B-day/Xmas item to add if you get the fast prime would be a 3-stop neutral density filter (e.g. B+W #103, in a 58mm size for the 85mm f/1.8). Not too expensive, and sometimes needed on bright days. Note in the settings above that I needed a shutter speed of 1/2000 s with f/1.8, and that wasn't a very bright day. Much brighter, and you won't be able to use a wide aperture without exceeding the shutter speed of the camera or overexposing the image, and that's where the ND filter helps by cutting the amount of light getting into the lens.


I think 85mm is about the longest lens you'd want for portraits with a plan to shoot both indoors and outdoors. The 135mm f/2L is a great lens for portraits outdoors on a 1.6x crop body like the ones we're discussing, but it's really too long to use indoors unless you have really big rooms. Keep in mind that while the 135L is "the" lens for tight portraits, that's meant with a film/full frame body - an 85mm lens on a crop body like a Rebel, 50/60D, or 7D gives the same angle of view as 135mm on full frame.


Speedlite 430EX II. All of the cameras we're discussing have a built-in, pop-up flash. Using that for portraits is about the worst thing you can do. You get red-eye, but more importantly (since red-eye can be removed in post processing), you get harsh, unflattering light. It accentuates wrinkles and facial flaws, and generally gives that 'deer in the headlights' look you really don't want in a portrait. If you were going to shoot exclusively outdoors, the pop-up flash would be ok as a fill flash. But indoors, you want the ability to deliver indirect light. The harshness/softness of lighting is inversely proportional to the size of the light source. A pop-up flash is tiny, meaning it's harsh. That's why studios, pros, and people who know a lot about lighting (e.g. our ownKeith B (http://www.lensrentals.com/news/2008.12.22/this-lens-is-soft-and-other-myths]THIS ARTICLE for more details on the issue. If you were to use consumer zoom lenses (like the kit lenses offered with most bodies), you may never notice a problem because the narrow apertures on those lenses mean deep depths of field, which masks AF problems. But if you'll be taking portraits, you'll be using lenses with wider apertures, and that means shallow depth of field (generally desirable for portraits) which means calibrating your lenses to correct for those issues. The 50D is also a step up from a Rebel in a lot of small ways - faster burst rate means more chance of capturing a fleeting expression, better autofocus system, and a bit more rugged. The joystick also makes it easier to select AF points for more flexible composition. Having said all of that, the Rebel T2i would be a good second option here to save a little money.


EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM. IMO, this is the absolute best general purpose zoom lens for a crop body, especially for portrait use. Although it covers basically the same focal length range as the kit lens included with the Rebels (18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS), this lens is much, much better. The optical quality is equivalent to an L-series lens (Canon's professional line). The relatively wide f/2.8 aperture will allow you to highlight a subject by blurring out the background. The focal range is good on the wide end (for indoor shots where you can't back up and want to include more than one person in the shot), and on the long end it's great for full-body shots. As others have pointed out, it's probably not a good idea to have this as your only lens, but if you're only going to have one, this should be it. Although I have a lot of lenses, including some with overlapping focal length like the EF 24-105mm f/4L IS, when I go out to take portraits with my 7D, this is one of the two lenses I take. Here's an example shot with the 17-55mm and a Rebel T1i, which was on one of my first outings with the my first dSLR. (You can click the image for a larger version.)



http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/4890930123_788241d54b.jpg
Rebel T1i, EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM, 1/50 s, f/2.8, ISO 100


EF 85mm f/1.8. This lens is one of the best values in the Canon lens lineup. It's fantastically sharp, and the optical and build quality are excellent. The fast f/1.8 aperture is something you can only get from a prime lens (the fastest zoom lenses are f/2.8). That means a large quantity of out-of-focus blur with a wide aperture, and the quality of the that blur (quality is called bokeh, which is different than quantity of blur) is good with this lens. It's the right focal length for tight portraits indoors or out, or wider shots outside if you have room to back up. It pairs nicely with the 17-55mm for a great 2-lens portrait combination. Another advantage to the wide aperture is that you can use it with just ambient light indoors, and get good results. Here's another early example of mine (I'm showing shots with the Rebel and the lenses I'm recommending, rather than the 7D, because the T1i has the same sensor that's in the 50D body; there are more recent examples on my Flickr page).



http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4124/5047278975_71a1a88f0d.jpg
Rebel T1i, EF 85mm f/1.8 USM, 1/2000 s, f/1.8, ISO 100


I really liked the 85mm f/1.8 lens, and took many portraits that I was quite pleased with. I no longer have that lens - I liked the focal length so much that I swapped it for the EF 85mm f/1.2<span style="color: #ff0000;)andSean Setters ("/members/Sean-Setters/default.aspx)), use large softboxes for lighting - big light sources means nice, soft lighting. Sure, the 430EX II's flash head isn't much bigger than the pop-up - but that's ok. You use the external flash as bounced light - angle the head up to bounce the light off the ceiling, which gives you a much, much larger light source. The 270EX is another option, but not one I'd recommend. It's not very powerful (less suitable for bouncing), and also the 430EX II offers an AF assist lamp - in dark settings, the AF system needs help, and without a flash or with a 270EX, it gets that help by firing a quick burst of strobe flashes, which is annoying and often distracting to the subject (they think you just took the picture). The 430EX II uses a red/infrared lamp to assist the AF system.


So, once again, sorry for the long post but I hope it helps with your decisions!


Good luck and let us know what you decide to do...


--John

[btaylor]

The 60D does NOT have AF microadjustment while the 50D does, that's partly why I didn't recomend it.



Thanks for the correction John (I hate to give false advice). The lack of micro adjustment was actually one of the things that blew me away with the 60D so I don't know why I missed that.


Rebecca you've got a lot of varied suggestions here, all will give you a good result. The best bet now is probably to head to your local camera store with these suggestions in mind and have a feel of the gear to see what suits you best.


Good luck. Ben.

[rebeccaw]

I posted this question before the weekend, left for a couple of days and when I got back there were 20 replies! The fact that you guys took the time on the weekend to answer my beginner dslr questions is greatly appreciated! You really are great bunch of guys!!!


As for my decision: I actually made a chart (I know, only a woman...) with all of your suggestions, checked out some more websites and came to the following conclusion:


LENSES: There were an equal number of recommendations for the 24-70mm and the 17-55mm. The fact that the 17-55mm is not compatible with a FF camera, which I might want to upgrade to at one point, makes my inner cheap-girl cry out in pain. What good is it to invest in a good lens if I might not be able to use it on my next camera, right? So I think the best choice would be the EF 24-70mmf/2.8 L USM. I might also invest in a 50mm with a lower f stop to get those extra sharp pics with a creamy bokeh. I understand that for portraits a 50mm is preferred over a 85mm on a crop body. Then later on, once I got rich from all those well paying shoots (LOL), I might get a 70-200mm as well.


BODY: 50D, 60D or 7D? Buying a 7D seems to go against the golden rule of photogs (cameras come and go, invest in the best lens you can afford instead). So thanks to those of you who recommended it, but I think itis not the best choice forme at this time.


The 60D doesn't have AF microadjustment, which seems to be a most valued asset by photographers. Is it really that important? It does have HD video and a swivel screen, neither of which features would be of too much interest to me. If the AF microadjustment is truly that crucial, than I think my best choice, if I were to buy right now, would be the 50D, which is about the same price as the 60D right now.


However, what if I were to wait until December? By then the price of the 60D might settle down a little, but again my interest in this camera depends on the AFm.a. issue. Also with the 60D being the new guy on the block the price of the 50D may be lower as a result. Plus, I've heard rumors of an upcoming discount on the 7D. And finally with the Christmas shopping season approaching there may be some discounts to be had. Is Christmas typically a good time to buy a camera?

[HDNitehawk]

Looking at the B&amp;H prices there is $170 between the 50d and the 60d. They both have the rebate if you buy the Pixma 9000 printer at this time. The printer sells for $499 and you get a $400 rebate. So you end up with the printer for an additional $99 bucks. They were offering this rebate when I bought my backup 5D and I took advantage of it. I would suggest doing the same if you bought the 50d or 60d. The only problem is you have to buy at full price and then wait on the rebate.


I have used the mirco adjustment on my 50d. That would be dissapointing if the 60d does not have it.


As far as waiting, the rebates canon is offering now are prety typical. You might see a rebate offer on the lens in a few months, but who knows. I don

[Joel Eade]

I would consider the following....


1. 24-70mm f/2.8L USM


2. 70-200mm f/4L USM


3. A used or refurbished 40D body


You would have great lenses for a variety of situations and buy getting a body that is one generation back you save a bundle on depreciation without that much loss in imaging technology. I believe 40D images look just as good as 50D images.

[Steven23]

I didnt see what you

[neuroanatomist]

So I think the best choice would be the EF 24-70mmf/2.8 L USM.


Good choice, Rebecca! Really, you can't go wrong with either the 17-55mm or the 24-70mm - it's mainly a question of focal length, IS, and FF compatibility.



I understand that a 50mm is prefered over a 85mm on a crop body.


Preferred is a relative term. Really, it comes down to the focal length you want/need for the types of shots you want to take. Are you set on buying all of these at once? If not, get the 24-70mm first, then you can see how 50mm works for your shooting style, or if you'd like to get just a little closer than the 70mm long end of your zoom.



If the AF microadjustment is truly that crucial, than I think my best choice, if I were to buy right now, would be the 50D


Mostly, it's a matter of luck. With manufacturing tolerances being what they are, and having only one or two lenses, you might get a set that matches up well. Or not, since each camera body and each lens will be a little different. If you are buying a 60D at a brick and mortar store, you can probably try out the specific body with the specific lens you are going to buy, and see if it's sharp. Then when you get your second lens, test it with your body, and buy a different copy if there's an issue. That's probably easier than sending body + lens(es) into Canon for adjustment (which is what AFMA avoids). It's possible that Canon will add that feature to the 60D via a firmware upgrade (but that doesn't seem likely based on their past history - personally, I'd love them to add a user-settable max ISO for Auto ISO to the 7D, but they haven't yet - it's available on the 60D, and even the Rebel T2i - heck, even my PowerShot S95 has it!).


To give you an idea of AFMA utility from my own perspective,I've calibrated 12 lenses on my 7D, and 11 of them have had some amount of adjustment applied. Obviously, the amount of AF microadjustment needed will be different for each unique camera and lens combo, so these numbers are useless to anyone else, but to give you an idea here they are:

&ndash;5EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM
+1EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM
+2EF 24-105mm f/4<span style="color: #ff0000;"]L IS USM
+2EF 70-200mm f/2.8<span style="color: #ff0000;"]L IS II USM
+6EF 70-200mm f/2.8<span style="color: #ff0000;"]L IS II USM + 1.4x
&ndash;7EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 <span style="color: #00ff00;"]DO IS USM
&ndash;3EF 85mm f/1.2<span style="color: #ff0000;"]L II USM
&ndash;1EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6<span style="color: #ff0000;"]L IS USM
&ndash;1EF 100mm f/2.8<span style="color: #ff0000;"]L Macro IS USM
&plusmn;0EF 85mm f/1.8 USM
&ndash;2EF 200mm f/2.8<span style="color: #ff0000;"]L II USM
+2EF 300mm f/4<span style="color: #ff0000;"]L IS USM



Given the depths of field common in portraiture (where you're usually in close and want a thin DoF), I'd say probably anything less than&plusmn;2 might not be that big a deal (you might notice it if you're being really critical and looking at a whole series of shots). The AF system is accurate within a certain tolerance (within the depth of focus for lenses slower than f/2.8, 1/3 of the depth of focus for f/2.8 and faster lenses), so there will be some element of 'randomness' from shot to shot. But even a small AFMA will 'center' that randomness and increase the overall keeper rate. On the other hand, without the&ndash;7 needed for my 70-300mm <span style="color: #00ff00;"]DO, backfocusing was easily noticeable (i.e. focused on the eyes of a small, close subject like a frog on a lily pad, the eyes were blurred while the back legs were crisply in focus). Same thing with the +6 for the 70-200 II + 1.4x extender - I'd be really unhappy if $2800 in lenses consistently front-focused!


From my perspective, AFMA is a necessary feature if you'll be using wide-aperture lenses. Having said that, lots of people have lived without it for lots of years (the 50D was the first xxD body to have that feature). But then, a lot of the pros who lived without AFMA would send their bodies+lenses in for manual calibration by Canon.

[Kayaker72]

Hi Rebeccaw,


You are getting some very good advice, but Ijust wanted to make a few suggestions and add some comments:

I know the conventional wisdom is to spend more on lenses than on bodies. I'd just be sure that "wisdom" applies to you. I believe part of the source of the wisdom is professional or serious prosumer photographers who have and will continue to make serious investments in their gear."They" favor lensesbecause they hold more value longer than camera bodies. Of course, IQ and build quality are better with the good lenses (those parts apply to everyone). But if you aren't going to be continuously updating andreselling your gear, my suggestion would be to not worry about the "conventional wisdom" and think about what you are going to shoot, and buy what fits your needs.
I think that is why people continue to recommend the 7D. For a person that will likely have 1 body for a long time, it does many things very well. Granted, the 40, 50 or 60D may fit your needs really well too (I don't know your needs [:)]). I'd recommend that you make a quick spreadsheet of the differences (men do that too [:P]) and see if any of the upgrades are important to you. For example, perhaps you have kids in sporting events, maybe the 8 fps burst rate would let you take pictures of them running around (I love Bryan's sequence in his review of the 7D and Neuro recently posted a great sequence of his daughter). Or maybe weather sealing is important. Or the autofocus points.....if not, maybe one of the other bodies fits your needs. But if this is your only camera body for the foreseeable future, know your needs and buy accordingly.
I'd also suggest going to acamera storeand actually holding these cameras. I bought my 7D in June, but before doing so held each of the cameras I was considering. Turns out I didn't like the way the 50D felt in my hands. Each camera has slightly different ergonomics.
Another thought would be to split your purchases buying your camera body now and the more expensive lens after you've used the kit lens for a little while. Kit lenses tend to be cheap and the knowledge you gain may help in your selection of your next lens.
I am not sure if you will have more money down the road for upgrades, but if you are looking at aone lens kit for awhile, I'd encourage the 24-105 f4 L IS or the EFS 15-85 IS. These are two of the Canon's most "flexible" general purpose lenses in terms of the range that they cover and for stationary subjects, IS is amazing.



I think you'll be happy with any of the camera lenses/bodies you decide because they are all good. Good luck, and sorry if any of this was rushed. [:D]


Brant

[btaylor]

Hi Rebecca, I think you've made some smart decisions there.


I currently use the Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L on my 5D2 and it's really nice. I found 50mm and bit too long on a crop body for indoor portraits but it's a good focal length for outdoor shoots so it should work well. I personally like the xxD bodies and shot with the 40D for quite a while before upgrading to the 5D2.


Here's a fewof my older portraitshots with the 40D to give you an idea of what you can get out of one of those bodies. The wedding shots were taken with the Canon 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS so it's a far inferior lens to the 24-70mm f/2.8L so you could expect even better results.


Cheers, Ben.


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