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Im wanting to buytwo slave flashes, to use with my 580ex II, and am looking at spending less then $200 on each flash unit. I would like some suggestions on what would be reliable slaves on a budget. Also I'd like to know if anyone uses offcamera flash cords, and weather that or using a remote unit to trigger my 580ex would be best for using the 580ex off camera.
thanks
I'm not an expert on multi flash use, but just FYI Adorama currently has the 430EX for $199.95
Two 430EX's would do nicely. I currently use a 580, 430, and 420. I also use the ST-E2 remote for inside shots instead of a flash cord. However that does not work outside unless there is something the IR can bounce off of which is unreliable. The problem is the slave units have to be positioned in front of the ST-E2 remote to get the signal.
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For example
Thanks to everyone for the advice, but unfortunatly the slave flashes are going to be put on hold. Last night I came home from work to a crashed monitor....So the money is currently being put towards that. But once again thanks for all the feedback.
I know you're putting things on hold, but I did want to chime in on the off-camera flash cord question. I bought one, carried it around for a while, and have since relocated it to storage (so well that I don't know where it is any more...). The Canon cord is just too short, and I hadn't found various online guides on how to extend it. Using it natively results in a very predictable look: light coming from camera left and up, often combined with a blurry and crooked photo from trying to hold the camera with one hand. Eventually, I surrendered and bought more flashes and light stands, and use an on-camera flash as trigger.
As far as remote units, I'm a believer in never spending money twice, so I know that I'll be buying pocket wizards when the time comes. Doing so means I'll have to go to each flash to adjust its power level manually. Currently, I can use a 580EX as a trigger, and even if I want to pretend to be 'advanced' and use preset power levels instead of E-TTL2 automation, I can adjust the power levels of three (sets of) flashes from the camera, without having to go to all of the flashes.
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flashes confuse the crap out of me, so that's the current focus point of my studies.. how the heck do you know how to set your flash levels manually? i want to get away from being dependent on TTL, because i feel like that's only putting a band-aid on the problem. i, too, want to go for the pocketwizards, because IR doesn't work if you're wandering around a room, like at a wedding. getting away from simply using natural light scared the crap out of me.. i've found success with that thanks to TTL.. but now actually having to fiddle with manual settings scares the crap out of me.
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A great website for off camera flash is http://www.strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html. It hsa helped me out alot in understanding off camera flash. Should help you with understanding how to set the flash levels manually.
joel
Step 1: Use E-TTL (II) remote flashes for a while. It's automatic, reasonably accurate (or if it's not, you can probably guide the camera towards what you want), and already "in your bag".
Step 2: Depending on your camera, you might be able to use an on-board flash to trigger your remotes at preset power levels, i.e. manual flash but without the need to walk up to each flash. This will help you build the experience you want, before taking the plunge on Pocket Wizards.
Step 3: Go remote, with Pocket Wizards.
As far as going full manual, whether on-camera or off, you've got to become proficient with how a flash exposure works, specifically that aperture and ISO are the only two variables that influence how much flashlight contributes to your picture. I'd recommend to start indoors, manual exposure at f/8 and ISO 640 perhaps, with shutter speed at the max sync speed of your body (so ambient is essentially a non-issue). Start at the flash's lowest power, and start shooting. After each shot, check your image and particularly its histogram; raise the flash power by one stop (i.e. change from 1/64 to 1/32 to 1/16 to 1/8 to 1/4 to 1/2 to 1/1) each time. You'll see your histogram walk to their right; you most likely want to stop just before it tickles the far right side. Assuming you weren't overpowering at 1/64 (if you were, close down your lens or lower your ISO) or out of power at 1/1 (if you were, open up your lens or raise your ISO), you'll now have a properly-flashlit exposure. From that point, you can trade aperture OR ISO for power: if you want less depth-of-field, open your lens a stop and drop your flash power by a stop, etc. You can also begin to introduce ambient light as background illumination: take a bunch more pictures and slow your shutter by a stop each time (i.e. 1/250 to 1/125 to 1/60 to 1/30 to 1/15 to 1/8 etc.), and you'll eventually see ambient light begin to show your background. With practice, this will all become easier and quicker.
Save working outdoors until you are proficient with these steps. Outdoors, the limited power of your flash will be a challenge against sunlight, and you'll have to reverse-engineer the aperture and ISO adjustments above in order to capture the flash well. I've learned that there's simply a limit, based on ambient light levels versus flash power, filters (if any), and distances, beyond which your flash isn't enough.