long distance focusing

I've been searching on the web for an answer and I've been unsuccessful....maybe someone here has a technique, either in capture or post processing, that will improve the photo's clarity when cropped and enlarged? I understand there will be degradation w/this process.


My question; how to get improved detail quality on shots over 150-175 (500 meters) yards w/either of my techniques? Tough distance to "fill the frame". [:P]


My equipment; 40D, 100-400IS, monopod or tripod, remote release, CS3.


Settings; AV, TV, M , spot metering, AI focus, High Speed continuous, Center focus zone, RAW.


Technique; using the Tripod I will use Live View (10x) and try to fine tune the focus if needed and shoot in Live View. Using the Monopod I rely on the AF (when will IS be incorporated in Live View? [:)] ). In both cases I use the remote release to shoot single shots and HS continuous.


Processing; usual suspects for me are the noise and unsharpen filters, luminosity, contrast which I believe help. Other technique suggestions? Also, I consider myself a novice in CS3, so a detailed answer will help me in processing.


I tried putting examples of both samples here but the larger versions won't fit and the smaller just doesn't work. Here is a link to photobucket (pics labeled 400mm and enlarged) containing the samples if you would like a visual. These photos were taken w/the monopod.


http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/ee23/bikejanitor/


I know stalking your prey is also an option, but (as in the yesterday's case) my subjects were surrounded by water and Great Blue Herons are very sensitive to human intrusion....so skulking wasn't an option.


Also, I understand buying a longer lens would help immensely, but I'm retired and the $5800 for the 500mm is more than I payed for my new '74 TR-6.....marital bliss is a higher priority at this point in my life. [:D]


Thank you in advance for any suggestions...


Regards


Bill

<span style="font-family: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; color: black; font-size: 9pt;"]Shutter speed?<o:p></o:p>


<span style="font-family: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; color: black; font-size: 9pt;"]Did you use mirror lock-up? If not, the mirror movement can cause small amounts of camera shake on tripods.<o:p></o:p>


<span style="font-family: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; color: black; font-size: 9pt;"]Did you turn off your IS - On tripods IS can become unstable.<o:p></o:p>


<span style="font-family: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; color: black; font-size: 9pt;"]The 100-400 lens is at its sharpest at f11 at 400 mm<o:p></o:p>


<span style="font-family: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; color: black; font-size: 9pt;"]Your image is on the small side to obtain a lot of detail.<o:p></o:p>

That's a tough one, it sounds like you're already doing everything you can. There's may be some improvements you can make in your post processing, like all of us. It would of course help to get more lens, more pixels, or more closer. [:)] If atmospheric conditions are already contributing significantly to unsharpness, more lens and more pixels will not have as big of an effect as they otherwise would. In particular, you might investigate digiscoping: mating your DSLR to a long, slow telescope. It's only fast enough in daylight conditions, but if you can live with that then you can get some extremely long focal lengths on the cheap. Just yesterday I was shooting a bald eagle with my 5D2 and 2500mm f/10 dob telescope, which only cost $450 brand new. The biggest downside is how difficult it is to use. (Weighs 30 pounds, sighting, tracking, focusing, etc.) So the very cheapest option is only practical for subjects that are stationary most of the time. There are other inexpensive options that are still portable and easy to use, but not as easy as a real photographic lens, and not as good of image quality either. Search for digiscoping on the web to get started.

Bob, to answer your questions;


Example pics have shutter speeds above 1/1250 w/some as high as 1/8000. I completely forgot about mirror lock up[:$]. Yes, IS is turned off while on the tripod. F stops were between 5.6 and 9.0.....can't wait to give f11 a try.


Question for you Bob....did you double click the pics in photobucket and then click on full size? If so, I guess these pictures aren't worth a thousand words.


Thank you for your input Bob and I'll try your suggestions this evening.

Dan, thanks for your input, but the thought of carrying 30 lbs. into terrain I was in yesterday, i. e. briar thickets and mud, is just a little too daunting for this old guy.


For example all I carried yesterday was the mono, cable release, camera w/100-400, CPF, and an extra battery....not only light but easily maneuvered thru the mud and brush.


Regards


Bill

Bill one thing I saw in your setup that I would change would be to change from AI focus to either One shot AF or AI servo if you are tracking subjects. In my short experience I have found that AI focus will miss focus allot of times when it hands off.