Question for Gimbal Head Experts

I have been looking at the gimbal head for awhile. When I take a close look at them, it seems that all of them that I can find, even the "W" the center of rotation does not align w/ the center of the mounting plate, the plate is "out board" of the center of rotation by 1/4 inch - which I would think can be fixed with better design.

This defeats the head being used for multi shot stitching as it introduces parallax error (or at least I think so). I can see that I can get to the vertical "nodal point" but not the horizontal.

What I am I missing, or did all the gimbal manf's miss it?

Last year I was looking for an option for Pano.
I thought RRS made just what you are looking for.

I typed this on the cell phone, otherwise I would have looked it up.

See if I can post the RRS link
http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/Shop...ds-Components/

I have the RRS PG-02 LLR, works great as a gimbal for my 600/4, works great as a multirow pano head with a standard lens. With the side mount setup like I have you need a nodal slide (I use the MPR-CL II) and an L-bracket on the body for panos. With the full gimbal you need an FAS clamp and also the L-bracket. Having a leveling base on the tripod really helps.

I have a nodal slider which I can use to move the alignment to the inside - mount the the L bracket a bit to the left.

So it is by design that the standard gimbal head config is not to align the center of rotation w/ the center of the lens/camera mounting bracket.

I looked up the RRS bracket, would have rather stayed w/ a config that had fewer joints and points of flex.

If the bracket lined up w/ the center of rotation, that would reduce the number of alignment points. I would only have to worry about elevation and fore/aft i.e. 2 dimensions vs. 3.

Was hoping that there was a traditional gimbal that lined up. arrrrggghhhh

If you already have a gimbal head make your own plate(s) for your lenses. Mill a slot across the aluminum bar stock to provide adjustment to bring the lens over the center of rotation. It only takes a few minutes each to make plates. More time is spent on set ups than machining.

if I had access to a mill. I am one of those in the "service industry" that is a long way from anyone w/ a machine shop. In a former marriage, I had a great wood shop and would have certainly sacrificed a router bit.....

BUT - there is an idea - get a medium format plate that would have enough room to drill a new mounting screw?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Busted Knuckles

I looked up the RRS bracket, would have rather stayed w/ a config that had fewer joints and points of flex.

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When assembled, the RRS PG-02 has no noticeable flex, even with a ~15 lb load (1D X, 600 II, 2xIII, ST-E3-RT and 600EX with better beamer). The Wimberley II is the same.

When the RSS gimbal is disassembled, it makes transport and storage easier. When the Wimberley II is disassembled...oh, wait...it doesn't break down for transport. ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by neuroanatomist

When assembled, the RRS PG-02 has no noticeable flex, even with a ~15 lb load (1D X, 600 II, 2xIII, ST-E3-RT and 600EX with better beamer). The Wimberley II is the same.

When the RSS gimbal is disassembled, it makes transport and storage easier. When the Wimberley II is disassembled...oh, wait...it doesn't break down for transport. ;)

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LOL, yea, noticed, that - trying out a gimbal and yep it makes for a large, space hogging hunk

FWIW, I bought the LensCoat RRS PG pouch for the RRS gimbal. When filled and rolled up, it's the size of a 300/2.8 lens. Turned out the pieces (including the nodal slide) all fit in a Lowepro Lens Exchange 200 AW, which is sized for a 70-200/2.8 and handily sliplocks onto the outside of a pack...and the case is less than half the cost.

http://community.the-digital-picture...ead.php?t=7018