A friend is looking at a used 5D Mk2 with lots of video use. The body looks in great shape and it has a low shutter count. Is there a metric that determines whether or not it is a good deal?
Thanks!
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A friend is looking at a used 5D Mk2 with lots of video use. The body looks in great shape and it has a low shutter count. Is there a metric that determines whether or not it is a good deal?
Thanks!
;) Price
Ok...I am sure others will have a more intelligent response. But, if it truly has a low shutter count and appears to be in great shape, it would need to be significantly below the price of a 6D (right now $1,399), IMO. Say, knocking off ~30%, or less than $1,000. Personally, I would probably be looking for it to be a bit lower.
About the only other technical thing I would be curious about would be test shots include one with the cap on so that I could look for hot pixels. Of course, they can be remapped, but a complete black shot looking like a starry night would definitely give me pause.
I've seen people use KEH as a guide. You can see price vs. condition easily, right here.
But yeah, I'd get a 6D instead, unless it was significantly cheaper. If you often need low-light / high-ISO, then I'd get 6D regardless of the price difference.
It IS a great price on C/L. Especially with 5 batteries thrown in plus lots of other stuff. The 6D is an all around better camera though (I have one). I suggested he learn how to use everything he has first before buying into GAS (plus the reasons he gave why he 'needed' to upgrade to FF were, IMHO, bogus).
If you think the price is good then don't be afraid of buying used equipment. With camera bodies do the black test with cover but also cover up the viewing lens that you look through as it contributes a LOT of light leakage and some will show a gradient in the image. Try throwing any DSLR into AV mode with the cap in place and then move your thumb over the lens to see how much the exposure time will change.
When you go to look it over you also want to look over the sensor and mirror for scratches. Take a hand lens and a small flashlight with you to have a directional lightsource in order to do this.
The shutter count is of more use as a haggling tactic in the end. Replacement shutter assemblies can be put into most cameras for a few hundred dollars. This effectively replaces most moving parts of the camera and gives you in essence a rebuild with full shutter life expectancy. Just make sure that if the count is over 100,000 that the price is dropped by this cost to keep your cost of buying used at a low enough percentage of new to retain the savings.
One thing that makes me walk away is lots of dings and scratches on the body. If the body has had enough impacts over time it can cause connectors and electronics to fail. If the body is clean, not banged up, and looks like it has been cared for then I have no real reservations in most cases.
Light entering through the viewfinder will affect metering, but should *not* affect the captured image directly. The metering sensor is adjacent to the pentaprism, but during an image exposure the mirror flips up and that prevents light from the VF reaching the image sensor. If light from the VF affects the image, there's a light leak and the camera needs service.Quote:
Originally Posted by jrw