Honestly, I'd prolly pass on the vibration control on the tamron. At 17mm, you will probably be shooting faster than 1/34 sec, and that would negate the value of the VC and still have the better image quality of the non-VC
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Honestly, I'd prolly pass on the vibration control on the tamron. At 17mm, you will probably be shooting faster than 1/34 sec, and that would negate the value of the VC and still have the better image quality of the non-VC
I've never used a lens with image stabilization sufficient to prevent blur from vehicle vibrations. For that kind of scenario you'll just want to keep the shutter speed extremely fast, which generally means more aperture, more ISO, or both.Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ 86
That being said, if someone wants to give me their 70-200 II, I'll gladly test it out... :)
i want canon 600D and sigma 17-70 F/2.8-4. There are good deals in USA, but didnt find any deal in Canada. where can i get a god deal in Canada?
I am from Edmenton. any shop/ dealer where i can get a good deal?
there is no outlet of adorama, B&H in canada.Please let me know for the purchase outlets.
There is no duty on cameras or lenses, and Canon's warranty is North American, so feel free to order from B&H or Adorama. I do. Use photoprice.ca to find the best deal. It will sort by the best price, to your door, in Canadian funds, include shipping, taxes, brokerage, currency conversion (including the extra 3% your credit card will charge you to do the conversion), and duty when applicable.
any risk in handling/ shipping on the camera and the lens? do they ship it safely??
Adorama used UPS Expedited (no brokerage on that one) when I ordered via them. I'm assuming it's insured, but I don't know. I can't remember what B&H used, but generally these people use a decent courier service, as they tend to deal with high-cost items.
Both Adorama and B&H are very reputable. I'm sure if something arrived damaged, they'd sort it out. Things are packaged well, with bubble-wrap kind of stuff around your fragile components. It's as safe as how it gets shipped to them or to your local retailer.
i thank all of you for support and information. got my canon rebel T3i and sigma 17-70 F2.8-4 on sunday.
getting started with DSLR photography.
Congratulations! Go have fun and shoot lots of pictures.
Enjoy that 17-70, I just sold mine. It's a sweet FL on a crop, especially as a better alternative to a kit kens. The 10-22 EFS compliments it well btw. I prefer the overlap due to the Sigma's 17 not so sharp wide end.
i want to get a 16gb card, as i fall short of my stock 4gb card when taking videos. i can find transcend, sandisk and other brands with high writing speed of 25,30 and 40mb/s. please recommend which is best for my 550D.
I like Sandisk cards as I've got plenty and have never had a card fail. I use a Sandisk Extreme Pro 90mb/s compact flash cards in my 5D Mark II.
However the 550D uses SD cards, for video I would recommend Sandisk Extreme Pro SDHC/SDXC 95mb/s card. Capacity is your choice but I'd go for either 16gb or 32gb.
I generally prefer Sandisk, Lexar is also reliable. I'd stay away from Transcend, Kingston, etc. 30 Mb/s is fine for video. Faster than that means less time downloading the images/video to your computer, but will otherwise not make much difference for shooting.
well, i also need some info on UV filters.
i want to get a UV filter for lens protection. As all you seniors advice for a UV filter for lens protection, i wanna get one.
i have checked with HOYA 72mm UV filter. there are 2 models,
Hoya 72mm Ultraviolet UV Haze HD (High Density) Digital Glass Filter (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._Haze.html)and
Hoya 72mm Ultraviolet (UV) Pro 1 Digital Filter.(http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...violet_UV.html)
which one to get?
which performs best?
With the digital sensors nowadays being so insensitive to the UV rays, is a UV filter even required for a DSLR? And does a lens front element really need a protection and would a UV filter provide it at all? Is it worth spending on such a UV filter risking image quality?
I bought a PHY 32GB and it is a big failure for video. I get the "Movies stopped recording..." error most of the times.Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ 86
The T1i (I think that's a 500D) says you want a class 6 card minimum for video work. I imagine the 550D wants something similar. It should say in the manual.
i want to ask, whether transcend cards are good??
i saw a card of class 10, but it was 25mb/sec. am a bit confused for cards, as the class 10 cards comes with 25mbps to 95mbps. then how are classes defined? class10 or class6? and is 25mbps sufficient? transcend has a lifetime warranty and sandisk has 5 years warranty.
does T2i or T3i support 32gb card??
from http://sd-cards-explained.articles.r-tt.com/, basically it's class = minimum of read or write speed in Mbps. If someone gives you an x rating, such as 20x, that will be 1.2 Mbps * xrating, but they're usually skirting the rules to give you a maximum speed, which is going to be based read speeds, not write speeds.
I'm still kind of worried about accidentally scratching the front element on my 135L so I bought a Marumi DHG Super Lens Protect Filter. I haven't noticed a negative impact to image quality.Quote:
Originally Posted by rohan.jadhav1980
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...protect+filter
Dave
a query regarding memory card,
i dont know the diff between these 2 cards below,
http://www.adorama.com/IDSSD16GE3.html
http://www.adorama.com/IDSDUIC1016.html
please explain me the difference. and for the price of 32gb 30mbps card i can get 16gb 45mbps card in sandisk. so which is preferable for my T2i?
Your camera will be the limiting factor I think when it comes to transfer speeds. It's old and slow enough that any of the cards will work just fine.
Either will do - they're the same, same capacity, same 30 Mb/s speed. The 'difference' is that the first one is an older card that has been discontinued (you can see that on the B&H website), but Adorama still has stock. It was 'rebadged' from Extreme to Ultra because Sandisk is now selling 45 Mb/s 'Extreme' cards and thus raised the Ultra line to the 30 Mb/s speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ 86
30 Mb/s is fine - the T2i will not use the extra speed, the only difference would be the 45 Mb/s card would transfer data to your computer faster (assuming your card reader supports the faster speed).
i dont use the card reader. i just connect the camera to my computer. I will be using this card, maybe for a long time.
If you recommend 30mb/s, i will take it instead of 45mb/s. hope it wont make big difference for me during clicks or videos.
i didnt get this point. pls explainQuote:
Originally Posted by andnowimbroke
Between the 45mb/s and 30mb/s, you'll never notice the difference in the camera. Neuro answered it better in the post right after mine.
hello everyone!
after a long time, and many many diff kind of clicks, i have purchased canon 10-22 for which i was waiting since long. just got her a few days back.havent tried her much. wanna get some good landscapes. but waiting for a CPL. after a small survey i found that a CPL for UWA lenses created variable intensity colour patterns in sky. i wanna know what can be a solution for this? as i have already been using CPL on my sigma 17-70 which gives very good results with help of CPL and wanna do the same on canon 10-22 also
The only real 'solution' would be to change the laws of physics. Good luck with that. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by DJ 86
A CPL does fine on your 17-70mm because the uneven polarization is generally a problem starting at 24mm and wider on a FF camera, meaning 15mm and wider on APS-C...your 17mm isn't wide enough to have the issue, the 10-22mm will be (although it should be ok in the 15-22mm range, which is another solution, of sorts). You can minimize the effect by shooting with some clouds in the sky, altering the angle of the shot relative to the sun (which, of course, will decrease the strength of the polarizing effect along with the uneven polarization artifact).
:(, not able to reach on any conclusion.and what about the vignetting caused at 10-13mm with regular CPL(instead of slim)?
now, even if i get a slim CPL, i wont get better polarising effect below 15mm, so i can save money by getting a regular CPL than a slim version.
I have the Canon 10-22 as well and have used a regular CPL on it. I don't recall vignetting being as issue as long as I only have the 1 CPL filter on the 10-22. I'll check that tonight. There are times when there is still benefit to a CPL with a UWA lens, such as dealing with glare coming off of water or bringing out vegetation under tree canopy. The issue with uneven polarization that you will have is with blue skies when part of your image is somewhat perpendicular to the sun. Which, at 10 mm, is most shots with blue skies. But sometimes the effect adds to the image.
If you are trying to bring out detail in the sky with a UWA lens, you may want to get a graduated ND filter. Something like a 2 or 3 stop hard edge 4x6 filter.
Get the regular version, unless you plan to stack the CPL onto another filter. In my previous testing, the 10-22mm @ 10mm could handle a B+W F-Pro + XS-Pro stacked (8.4mm, which is thicker than the standard CPL at 7mm), with no mechanical vignetting.Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ 86