....still on the fence deciding to purchase either the 300 f4 or 400 f5.6, in the meantime....
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/...96964eac_z.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4133/...50832fda_z.jpg
Printable View
....still on the fence deciding to purchase either the 300 f4 or 400 f5.6, in the meantime....
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/...96964eac_z.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4133/...50832fda_z.jpg
Joel, how do you know if it's properly exposed for "high key" since it's over exposed in histogram anyways?
Banman 1, those eagles pictures are nice, I like the pose of the eagle, I don't know what lens you used, it seemed that either the lens is not long enough or you couldn't get very close to the eagle cause the pictures looks cropped a lot, they are lack of details and maybe you put the eagle s too centered, just my 2 cents
elmo--2006, your pictures have told me that you should get 400mm 5.6[:D]
JJphoto
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Eade
Can I ask why you are using manual mode if you're relying on the camera's metering logic to guide your adjustments anyway? Why not aperture priority and adjust ISO as needed? Then switch to spot metering if you want high-key just as you need to with your manual method. Seems simpler, faster and more able to react to changing conditions, but maybe I'm missing something. If it's just the way you prefer to work that's totally fine with me, but if there's some advantage to it then I'd definitely want to start making use of it :)
**EDIT** It occurred to me that it's probably so that you don't need to hold auto exposure lock for recomposing different shots. It that correct? Too bad spot metering doesn't work on any point :(
StapledPhoto,
I am used to manual mode and find it easy to make quick adjustments and as you pointed out there is no need to hold auto exposure lock but what I am most interested in is to get the exposure of the subject correct no matter the background and even if the background changes. So once I determine the correct subject exposure it doesn
Joel, I got it , thank you very much!
Salazarbrujo, this is the toughest bird I have ever seen, but I guess it will never perch on those wires[:D]
congratulations on your 135mm 2.0L, I know it is just a fantastic lens.
A pair of Mourning Doves, my backyard setup
1D MKIII + 300mm 2.8L + 1.4TC + 580exII fill flash with better beamer
[img]/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer-Discussions-Components-Files/15/4338.343V9538.jpg[/img]
Very nice shot Joel. Sharp, nice diffuse background and very nice lighting.
I have these birds all over the place in my neighborhood, but never took any interest in shooting them---Maybe I
Wow, it looks so nice, like the lighting very much!
"better beamer"? I have to google it.
Bob,
I have had good luck with the better beamer when using it for fill flash from a distance of 15 feet or more. Helps bring up the exposure a little so detail can be enhnaced. In lower light situations or if a bird flies overhead and it is against a bright sky it can help expose the subject to prevent a silhouette effect. Usually in my setup I keep the flash and beamer on the camera all the time even if I don
Joel,
The wife talked me in to a zoo trip today---So I
http://www.pscvn.org/members/308/10-...1-21-12_PM.jpg
Hello everyone,
Elegant Tern
Canon 7D, EF 500 f/4L IS, Tripod
Thanks for viewing and commenting
Nate,
Hi! Nate, this is a beautiful BIF shot, every thing looks just perfect!
looks like you got you new tripod? how do you feel about it compare to hand holding?
here is a recent one from me
[img]/resized-image.ashx/__size/800x0/__key/CommunityServer-Discussions-Components-Files/15/0044.IMG_5F00_0581.jpg[/img]
7D, 300mm 2.8+1.4TC
thanks for viewing
Hi jjphoto,
Yes I just bought myself a Gitzo GT3541LS and Wimberly II, I think I
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinh Nhut Nguyen
Like Nate, I also bought the 3541 LS---Worth every penny and then some--. Since I have started using it,I can really appreciate the sharpness of my Lglass andI don't even think about going anywhere without it. It really made a difference in the sharpness of my images and opened doors to new genres, like lightning, waterfalls, night shots, hummingbirds etc. The really great thing is that I can now go to manual focus live view X10 and really tweak the focus so that it is spot on. I do this whenever possible. Honestly, I bought the tripod so I could match Nate's handholding skills.
Nate, If you haven't already done so, consider a little locktite on the center plate and retaining bolt of your Gitzo--You don't want that 500 falling off [:#]. Also, a nice padded bag with shoulder strapmakes it much more tolerable to carry around. I used mine for the first time yesterday at the zoo and it really made it easier.
Bob
Hi Bob, thanks for the tip regarding Locklite, I have little knowledge on tripod. I have a few questions regarding my 3541LS
What is that screw underneath the plate, what does it do?
thanks Bob
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinh Nhut Nguyen
That screw is for the sand bag hook which should have come with your tripod.
Hope this helps.
Bob
Thanks for the reply Bob, I didn
American Coot and chick
Thanks for viewing and commenting[:D]
7D & 500f/4L IS, handheld, manual exposure
http://www.pscvn.org/members/308/10-...3-42-43_PM.jpg
Oh, nice shot again!
I understand how much patient you need to get this kind of shot even with some luck. also like the water and reflection.
Trumpeter Swans from my trip to Anchorage last week. Still learning (like not overexposing the wings next time), but it was fun watching in wait. I was only able to commit a couple of hours one day due to other family commitments. Wish I had more time to get used to the craft.
The speed dipped too much on this one and caused some blur:
[IMG][View:http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c114/deltasun/Random/20101013_007_Swans.jpg][/IMG]
7D, 100-400mm @ 400mm, f/8, 1/640s, ISO 400
Again, I should have underexposed a bit here:
[IMG][View:http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c114/deltasun/Random/20101013_025_Swans.jpg][/IMG]
7D, 100-400mm @ 400mm, f/8, 1/800s, ISO 400
Any other exposure tips?
Hi! Deltasun, for me , the exposure is always a hard part too, I found the reflection of a white bird in a sunny day is very strong usually stronger than you think, if I use AV mode in my 7D, I usually have to use 1 2/3 stop of comp.to get proper exposure ( for white bird like egret) and the background will be under exposed for sure. other people use sunny 16 rule with M mode( see older post in this thread) always check histogram to make sure if it is properly exposed.
also for BIF, you want faster speed, slower than 1/800 usually will not get good result( not sharp enough)
hope that help!
GBH in flight
7D, 300mm 2.8, f 3.2, 1/2500, ISO 200
[img]/resized-image.ashx/__size/800x0/__key/CommunityServer-Discussions-Components-Files/15/4857.IMG_5F00_0875.jpg[/img]
C&C welcome and thanks for viewing!
Great Shot JJ--- +[Y][Y]
Fantastic, JJ!
Thanks Bob and Denise for your kind words
Thanks for the advice, JJ. And awesome shot - beautiful texture and sharpness!
Juvenile Brown Pelican, Alafia River, Florida
1D MKIII + 500mm f/4 IS USM 1/1250 f/5.6 ISO 400
[img]/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer-Discussions-Components-Files/15/4382.343V0880.jpg[/img]
Joel, Your killing me---This bird looks 3D----Beautiful. I know this isn
How did you get the focus on the moving object.
Single point center focus, but how did you catch it to the motion?
OMG, Joel!! That photo is definitely up there as being one of the best bird shots I have seen yet! If that bird was any sharper and life-like it would be flying in my room!
Denise
Deltsun, you are welcome and thanks for the commend.
Joel, great shot again!, incredible sharp!
Thanks Bob, Denise and JJphoto.....I appreciate the nice comments. BTW this was shot from a tripod using a Wimberly II gimbal head.
iND.....I don
Joel, very nice pic, but I have to ask some questions.
As Bob stated it does have a 3D look, but to me it looks superimposed onto the background....background looks just a bit too blurred/soft (?) while the pelican is extraordinarily sharp (my eyes, my monitor).....1DMKlll & 500mm?
So please don
Hi Bill,
Of course I processed the image....I shoot RAW mode then.....
1. Convert the image with some adjustments as needed in ACR, maybe a slight exposure adjustment or clarity adjustment
2. Bring the picture into CS5
3.Adjust shadows/highlights if needed
4.Adjust levels if needed
5.Crop if needed
6.I will usually sharpen depending on the intended output size, using unsharp mask, the settings vary but usually no more than a radius of 0.4, threshold of 3-6, anywhere from 100 to 300%. Those are ballpark settings and can vary alot. Sometimes sharpening with a low setting like 0.2 pixels with multiple passes works well.
7. I will then create a duplicate layer and run noise reduction on the duplicate layer, usually with a maximum setting.
8.Then create a layer mask to reveal the bird without the noise reduction.
This does serve to make the subject "pop" out from the background but usually I don
Great shots Joel and JJphoto. Very impressive. Joel, thanks for the processing info. I am sure most everyone here can use it. Your subject looks a ways away from the background so it is naturally going to pop especially at that f#. great work.
Thanks Joel....copying and pasting your process into my documents...thank you for your input.
I
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill W
+1 - thanks! That's a great workflow description, and I have also saved it for later reference.
Quote:
Originally Posted by neuroanatomist
+2 - Yep, saved here also! I am going to start putting a binder together and on the side of the binder it will read "TDP Reference Manual"!
Also, I've started on my winter project list ...
#1 - Learn post-processing!!
Denise