Low Lighting shooting help

The the meter in the camera and the flash work together to illuminate the scene - distance to focus point, bounce, ambient light levels, etc.

For example, when really desperate for a bounce or softer lighting effect & I didn't bring a "modifier", I point the flash straight up and then fold a piece of white paper over the top so that it is tilted 45 degrees over the flash w/ a rubber band. I have even made a "tube" out of heavy aluminum foil to create a spot or "key light" effect when again, truly desperate. There are more permanent solutions than this, but the point is that the camera's meter and flash work together - if you look very closely you see there are actually two flashes - one is a metering flash the other is the "real" flash. - you can use the pop up as a "master" and the 430 as a "slave" off to the side and even turn off the output to the popup so only the 430 would provide light to the exposure - but you will still the popup on the camera flash to meter the scene and "tell" the 430 how much light to emit.

I am just a beginner on the artistic use of a flash - there are several on the forum that are way better. In the manual you can read about 3 channels, and groups of flashes, etc - just points to how - if you really want to chase it - complex it can be made.... or let the camera & flash to the thinking and it should work 99% of the time - A little quick "compensation" if your subjects are close or you don't want to fully illuminate them (there times when you just a little less shadow) all from the Q button menu

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Originally Posted by Squidy

Oh so the flash lowers itself judging by how much light the shutter lets in? Wow, didn't know that but it makes sense now

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Not exactly. FEC lets you adjust the flash exposure relative to what the E-TTL II flash metering decides is optimal. Nothing to do with the shutter, per se - aperture and shutter speed control the ambient contribution to the image. At 1/1000 s in a dark environment, ambient contribution will be close to nil.

If you're relying on automatic flash exposure, it will determine flash intensity for the foreground subject based on the preflash reflected back from the subject (assumed to be at the selected AF point, or in the center if no point is selected). That's what FEC changes.

Might want to read Syl Arena's excellent book, or NK Guy's, and/or spend some time over at:

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03...g-101.html?m=1

I realise that I arrive late in the discussion and a lot has been said on flash but to come back to the event, i.e. a heavy metal concert. I'm not sure you should use a flash for a concert and for some it's even forbidden. You should have quite a few spot lights of different colours on stage and always something on the players. With flash, you will lose a lot of the atmosphere. Try to go there during the balance and ask for a few minutes with real lighting conditions. I wouldn't be surprised that you have something correct with 1/80 f/2.8 ISO 1600/3200 (spot metering - on the player's face). This is of course personal taste but I like when the hands on the guitar neck are blurred (like in he was really playing) and the rest is sharp. To achieve that you'll need to shoot in burst mode and some luck ;0)

A thought - assuming flash is allowed, when you use flash to overcome the ambient, you may be able to avoid killing the ambience at the same time. Consider gelling the flash blue, magenta, etc., which will boost the overall light but blend in with stage lighting.

Good discussion. I'm thinking here, if the light is low, why not just take advantage of that and go for a creative long exposure shot? I think it would look cool to show the motion of the people in the mosh pit, and the band members too. With plenty of trials, there's a decent chance you can come up with something that would work. If you can brace the camera somewhere (or bring a really small tripod), a 1-second exposure could produce some fun results. Who knows?