Here are a couple I did yesterday and the day before that. This is Cologne, Germany.
http://www.pbase.com/johnhudson/imag...0001/large.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3633/...5073360766.jpg
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Here are a couple I did yesterday and the day before that. This is Cologne, Germany.
http://www.pbase.com/johnhudson/imag...0001/large.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3633/...5073360766.jpg
Loving the third one Maloner. It's really great.
I haven't shot many HDR since the tread began but here are 2 from yesterday that I am pleased with. Hope you enjoy. They are from the Chicago Botanic Garden,
Regenstein Center
http://www.pbase.com/dbrasco/image/1...5/original.jpg
Japanese Garden
http://www.pbase.com/dbrasco/image/1...6/original.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgravel
It is a beautiful shot! It seems very natural, just the way our eyes would see it, which is what I am looking to accomplish, too. I have the same camera and lens, and I would like to know how you would do this without having multiple images. Is there some way to simulate under/over-exposure in DPP? IJUST bought the Essentials HDR (thanks Michael James) for their under $50 introductory price, but haven't even gotten the key for the download yet. I have a couple of shots that I think would be candidates, but didn't know about HDR and bracketing when I took them. I don't really care if it is "proper" HDR or not, if the results are like you have shown here.
Why wouldn't a single RAW shot, with copies made to be underexposed and overexposed in a RAW processor, be just as good as multiple shots? Is the reason for having multiple shots to give more sample data to the image processing software?
Also, I am imaginingthe advantage of 7bracketed shots versus 5 or 3 iskind of like having a 14 bit image versus a 12 or 10 bit image. Is that conceptually sort of the right perpective? More for the image information for the processing software to use for decision making?
I'm disturbed that you didn't get the key from them already (software). I really hope these guys didn't vaporize. I sent them an email a couple of weeks ago and didn't get any response (non-critical communication). Keep us posted here when you get it to see if there is some kind of long delay. I'd be less willing to recommend them if that is the case. I got my key in under 48 hours (FYI).
Michael James
http://www.digitalcoastimage.com
More data.
I've shot 9 frames 1EV apart shooting a high DR scene and then tonemapped with all 9 and then pulled frames 2, 4, 6, 8 and just tonemapped 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 which of course are 2EV apart. The difference is a smoother transition in tones. I posted finals somewhere else online about a year ago to show the difference. I should have kept those test images to show here.
I'd imagine for lower DR scenes, it might not matter. But the example scenes I shot were very high DR scenes with blaring sun coming into much darker interiors like the image I've attached. The middle exposure had completely blown out windows and you couldn't see the emerald green and blue water at all and you could barely tell there was furniture on the balcony.
I probably tuned down the outdoors TOO MUCH here because it was a brite sunny day. But this was just a MLS listing for a realtor and I would have retweaked the edit if it was a builder or architect's shot for a portfolio. The realtor's don't pay enough for over editing shots.
When you shoot just one RAW, you only have the range captured in that one shot. Which means that the shadows and highlights will not have a ton of data compared to if you shot three RAWs.
[img]/resized-image.ashx/__size/640x480/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.00.24.80/02_5F00_livingRmWest.jpg[/img]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael James
LOL!! No, I've got it now. When I say JUST, I mean JUST. Like "I-ordered-it-in-another-tab-of-my-browser" just. [:)] It actually came to me within 5-10 minutes. I haven't had a chance to download it yet, but will do that this afternoon I am sure. I hope they respond to your e-mail. They still have contact stuff on their site. Maybe give that a chance again?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael James
What I would give to have my "half-hearted" processing look half that good! I am excited to start using the Essentials HDR software that you recommended.
I do understand what you are saying about the multiiple images, and I was sort of asking from a devil's advocate perspective. I see where the software can do a better job with more data points, and I certainly understand that the point of HDR is to use the darker areas of the overexposed shots to gain detail, while using thebright areas of the underexposed shotsfor the same purpose.
Since I have a 40D which normally only has three "data points" how far apart would you suggest I bracket them? I think I have 1/3 EV spacing incrementsavailable. Is +1/0/-1 good, or should I go for -2/0/+2, or go for something in between?
I have been giving some thought to overcoming the limitations of the camera by controlling shooting from my PC with the camera on a tripod, and changing on the fly so that Itheoretically have -2, -1 2/3, -1 1/3, -1, -2/3, -1/3, 0, +1/3, +2/3, +1, +1 1/3, +1 2/3, +2. That would be 13 points!!
I need to look, but I think I could do the same thing by 1/2 steps, as well, which may be more than adequate. Actually that would still be nine steps. Would that extra effort be too much sugar for a dime?
EDIT: I just realized what you were saying about the "1EV apart" referred to 1EV per step. So my fractions of an EV per step may be slicing the breada little thin. Again, I need to learn my camera better, butI think it can only do from -2 to +2 without recentering "0".
"It depends"
Unfortunately that is the only answer. Even shooting interiors varies greatly. When shooting a scene that allows light to flood in directly, it could take me 10-12 frames at 1EV per. Some scenes only need 7 frames even though there are windows in the scene and usually because it is woods in frame and no surfaces to bounce light into the property.
Outdoors I usually only need 3-5 frames for 90% of the shots. When I'm standing under a portch with a balcony I might need to go 7 just to bring out the darker shadows within the porch area.
And on a daily basis I'll mix it up. There are times I'll shoot an interior with no windows in frame that has a harsh overhead light that causes deep shadows in the room. Even though I could take one shot and then pull up shadows and bring down highlights in post... it is better to shoot 3-5 frames at either 2/3rds or 1/3rd between each because the colors in the shadows and highlights come out better than pulling them up in say LightRoom. And of course there is less noise in the shadows and less wash out in the highlights.
I can't go +/- a full 2EV. The Nikon D3 allows 9 frames, but a max of 1EV between each. I've shot with Canon's and that 3 AEB annoys me to no end!!!
I also shoot with the Sigma SD14 and it allows 3 frames using AEB and up to +/- 3EV steps and that often is too far apart. I'll use 2 1/3rd as a max when using the SD14. I mostly use the SD14 outdoors so those scenes need less frames anyway and the 3 AEB is usually just enough.
The answer is ... there is no definitive answer.
I've been doing this for almost 3 years and have shot around 400 properties with about 15-20 shots per property. I don't know how many thousand exactly... probably close to 7000. It took me about 1000 or so to really understand which settings to use for which scene right out of the gate. And now I know how to shoot certain scenes while on site that will make my life easier in post.
Michael James
http://www.digitalcoastimage.com
The 40D has three "C" modes. What I would recommend is pre-prepping them so that in the field you can set up a shot to capture quickly with just the flip of the dial.
Like have the first one C1 setup with the camera settings so that it begins with a negative exposure compensation and C2 with a positive exposure compensation so that you can put the camera in AEB mode and fire off three AEB in C1 and then turn the dial to C2 and immediate fire off three more.
I'd imagine if you used C3 as well you could use all three settings to work out 9 exposures, but at the expense of having to touch the camera twice (once each time you turn the dial). A very steady (rock solid) tripod is crucial if you intend to touch the camera. You'd be amazed at how easy it is to change the alignment touching the camera even lightly.
If you do the math based on the steps between each frame of your AEB, then you can very quickly end up with 6 frames equally spaced using C1 and C2 (9 if you also use C3). The only challenge you will have in post is that they were taken separately so the software may ask you to input the steps you used manually after you have selected the images to use when merging to HDR.
Michael James
http://www.digitalcoastimage.com
Michael,
Thank you for the replies. Of course, experience is a great teacher. I am the kind of guy who wants to get it right out of the gate, but I will have to be patient. I do enjoy learning by doing, so this should be a great adventure.
I wonder if the 1D Mark II or Mark IIIhas more points for AEB. I want one of those for other reasons anyway, so this might put me over the edge. I'd have to wait on the Mark III, but might go after a Mark II immediately. I'll look into it. I don't want to risk moving the camera.
rgravel,
Out of curiosity, what is the EV spread of your "images"?
I know the 1Ds mark III does up to 7 for an AEB sequence and +/- 3.0 to boot. I heard from someone online that you can even program in a much higher number of frames as well. I'm not sure about the 1D series.
I never really looked at the 1Ds series because it was out of my price point when I first looked. I'll tell you though. That Canon 17mm T/S is looking a must have for me. Nikon has a 24mm, but that 17mm offering by Canon would be really beneficial to me.
There are about a dozen times a week where I can't get a decent shot off of a room because of optical issues relating to where I can even stand (tripod). And most of these rooms require me to be from 16-18mm because they are condos or smaller homes.
The thing that makes me cringe is the 3 AEB of Canon (ughhh!!!).
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiFiGuy1
The 14-bit capture uses designated ranges across the 4096 values for different sub-ranges within the sensor's dynamic range. Some sub-ranges (say 18% gray to one stop darker) get a higher number of values (perhaps 2048 of them) than other sub-ranges (say 8 stops darker to "black", getting perhaps 256 values total across those 1-3 stops worth).
Using a single image file to perform HDR becomes a manipulation of the brightness values of the file's pixels to create a file with details not otherwise as visible. Doing so involves perhaps boosting some pixels from a range where there's little detail. Using multiple files of varying under/overexposure provides more detail in those various brightnesses to create the end file. Is single file bad? Nope, at least to me. How about the hybrid method mentioned above? The data is, in the end, the same whether the software gets to work with a single image file or copies that have been brightened/darkened.
A couple of HDRs :
[img]/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.00.24.65/IMG_5F00_1456.JPG[/img]
[img]/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.00.24.65/IMG_5F00_3063_5F005F00_0_5F005F00_1_5F00_tonemappe d_5F00_ls.JPG[/img]
This was rendered in Raw Shooter Essentials.
I don't know if it's HDR. Well, in terms of high dynamic range, it was very much so...
It looks totally artificial, but I like the effect. Kind of sickening [:)]
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...kyline_001.jpg
Im hopping on the HDR wagon. Well, you could say Imrunningbehind it right now. :P
I've read most of this thread and from that I know is that HDR is done with multiple shots that have different exposures. (Im lost on thetechnicalities).
I took three shots for this: Exposure compensations of [-2, 0,+2] I used Essential HDR Community Edition because it was free. I just hit the "merge and align photos" button and then after that finished I hit "tone mapping" and played with the sliders for a bit. Anyy input at all is welcome.
I'm a complete novice to HDR. Are there certain scenesthatwork better for it? Sorry for my lack of knowledge.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_QRGWuXF8tks/Sg...nest HDR 2.jpg
I'm going to cover Essentials HDR on my blog. I'm launching the blog this week. It is up but without posts as of tonight.
http://www.hdriblog.com
I speak briefly about the app here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ogex5stQ2vg
Michael James
http://www.digitalcoastimage.com
Michael.
Congratulations on the blog.
Interesting introductory tutorial. What are these HDR monitors you mentioned? I haven't heard of them before.
There is a television technology in my business with like a 1M:1 contrast ratio. The name escapes me right now, but it is only about 30" diagonal and cost like $10k a year or two ago. It uses LCD, but with an LED backlight.
EDIT: It is the BrightSide brand. It is a 37" called the DR37-P. The dynamic range is shown to be 200,000:1 and the price was listed as $49k. I don't have one personally, if you're curious. [:)]
Ialso see OLED monitors being pretty high performance in the near future, along with my personal favorite, which is SED or SCED, though that has stalled commercially for the time being over some intellectual property rights hassles.
BTW, on your recommendation, I did purchase Essentials HDR. I have played with it a little, and like it pretty well, but don't really know how to utilize it to its fullest yet. That might be an interesting blog topic/YouTube video for you to do. Also, I would like to know how you see shots in the real world that make you think, "hey, that's gonna be a great candidate for HDR!"
Actually Dolby Digital purchased BrightSide and absorbed them. They are actually working on a 47 inch right now with higher specs:
• Display: LCD panel and power LED BLU (2,206 high-power LEDs) plus HDR technology
• Peak brightness: >4000 cd/m2
• Resolution: 1920 × 1080 Full HD
• Contrast ratio (full on/full off): Infinite (over 1000000:1)
• Full 16-bit processing (65,536 shades per color) and widest range of displayable colors
To be released this year (no pricing yet)
http://www.sim2.it/home/en/node/1961
I wonder why Dolby would want them... Going to be licensing video technology now?
Colin,
I would have to guess they want to be known as a high end display maker as they are well known for their sound. I don't know exactly why, but maybe there is a reason that will make sense to us as they bring the technology forward.
It could be they are looking out to the future and believe this is potentially a lucrative space to be in.
Michael James
http://www.digitalcoastimage.com
What about HDR movies ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkbQ2FwZvYk
This is definitely the best I've got in the last 5 months with the XSi. It takes such great pictures that I haven't done a lot of HDR recently!
This is an outdoor landscaped water feature located along the city's walking path along the river.
Xsi, EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS, f/9.0, 17mm, ISO 100, 6 shots of variable shutterspeed, done with Details Enhancer in Photomatix Pro 3.
[img]/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.00.24.73/Night-Shot-DE-web-edit.jpg[/img]
C & C welcome!
Alex
Pretty cool alex, it looks like those HDRs which I call "natural HDR" since it is really hard to tell just by looking at it that it's an HDR (to me at least).
Here's one I did a little while ago
http://www.pbase.com/johnhudson/image/114718732.jpg
you guys have posted amazing pictures!
I was actually thinking of doing my first HDR last weekend but Mother Nature said otherwise. it rained :(
Maybe this weekend then :P
here is a BW HDR. Tell me what you think Gregg[img]/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.00.22.00/rock-and-clouds-_5B00_1600x1200_5D00_.jpg[/img]
Gregg, I love it
Thank you Groundfault. been playing with aspect ratio for this forum. trying to figure out what looks best for displaying pics here...thanks again.G
here is another BW HDR[img]/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.00.22.00/Bw-Road-_5B00_1600x1200_5D00_.jpg[/img]
A lot great work here. This is one I did recently.
http://www.pbase.com/roffee/image/11...5/original.jpg
that's an awesome shot Roff. What lens did you use? it almost looks like the Sigma 12-24...great colors on the plane. Thanx for sharing.G
Quote:
Originally Posted by greggf
Thanks for the compliment. The lens was Canon's 10-22 on a 30D. I used Photomatix to make the HDR.
Larry
I've not been on here for some time - but this is one I took when I was over in Ireland last week.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2451/...cc77190c_o.jpg
Another one, also Ireland, but from June this year.
Only the sky has been HDR'd as the beach didn't work!
http://www.mark.colston-online.co.uk..._0765%205D.jpg