Lighting advice/recommendations?

Before I get started...


I currently have:

• Canon 450D (Rebel XSi)
• EF 17-55 kit lens
• EF 100mm Macro f2.8
• EF 50mm f1.4
• Speelite 430EX II
• Manfrotto Tripod

<div>I've recently been asked to do a shoot for a friends band to be used for their website and promotional material. I really love the creativity of my 430EX II but would like to further this with a better, more studio-like lighting setup. Although it will need to be portable, as will be used indoors and outdoors.</div>
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<div>I will be purchasing an ST-E2 remote to control the 430EX II, and a 580EX II to complement this further down the line.</div>
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<div>My main question is what gear (along the lines of stands/umbrellas/soft boxes etc) would be best suited to my needs? Obviously any other comments or suggestions on the rest of my setup for this would be appreciated.</div>
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<div>(Hope that wasn't too long for a first post) ;)</div>

www.strobist.com


Lighting 101 and 102


My2Abes


Chuck

I recommend Honl Grids, Westcott Apollo 28" Softbox, Photogenic Eclipse 60" Umbrellas and Expoimaging's Ray Flash.


Some 16" Apollo Shoot through umbrella come in handy too. They are good for filling a room with light to bring up backgrounds. I don't use them as key lights because they really flatten things out. Great for Product shots too.


I have SP stands but most import, get a Boom. Booms make life so much easier in a lot of situations. My boom set up cost me $150 (not the greatest but perfect for flash setup). After I bought it I wanted to kick myself for not getting it a lot sooner.

I second the strobist.com suggestion. Go through his material, take your time experimenting, and check in on the strobist flickr group. There's tons of old threads in the strobist flickr group on gear recommendations, and reviews. Shoot through umbrellas are probably the most versatile and portable solution to get you started. If you want to shoot outside, you may want to invest in radio triggers like PocketWizards or CyberSyncs. The canon infrared system starts to fail in bright sunlight.

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Originally Posted by Keith B

I recommend Honl Grids, Westcott Apollo 28" Softbox, Photogenic Eclipse 60" Umbrellas and Expoimaging's Ray Flash.
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I would agree with most of this statement, however, I've found what I think is a better grid. SaxonPC grids in foam housing fit better (as they're custom fit for the flash) and come in a variety of spread that enable much better fine-tuning of the light. I have a Honl 1/8" grid, but stopped using it the day my set of SaxonPC grids came in.

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Originally Posted by Sean Setters

I would agree with most of this statement, however, I've found what I think is a better grid. SaxonPC grids in foam housing fit better (as they're custom fit for the flash) and come in a variety of spread that enable much better fine-tuning of the light. I have a Honl 1/8" grid, but stopped using it the day my set of SaxonPC grids came in.

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I'll look into those. I've been using the 1/8 and 1/4 Honl's and find the fit clunky at best.

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Originally Posted by Keith B

I'll look into those. I've been using the 1/8 and 1/4 Honl's and find the fit clunky at best.
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For about $10 more than the cost of one Honl speed grid and one [required] speed strap, you can have 6 custom fit SaxonPC grids varying from 10 degrees to 65 degrees. Of course, you have to find a way to transport/carry 6 diffferent grids, but that's what car trunks were made for. ;-)

Thanks for all the replies


Keith B - Great recommendations, you've given me a great place to start. The Photogenic Eclipse 60" Umbrella seems like the ideal size for my uses and I especially like the removable cover.


bardinjw - Thanks, I'll definitely look into the radio triggers. I have heard some reports of interference between Speedlites and PocketWizards though, is this something I should really be concerned about?


I'm still looking at what brand of stand(s) to go for. I like the look of the Westcott stands and boom, as well as Manfrotto's (although their range seems a lot more... complicated to choose from). Has anyone any experience/opinions on which stand brand to go for?


Again, thanks for all the replies.

For the money, I'd go with the LP606 lightstand from mpex. I have 3 of them, and they work very well. They aren't meant to hold up the heaviest things (not sure I'd use a boom with one), but I've put 3 flashes and an umbrella on one and it held up decently. I've owned several brands of lightstands, and these are cheaper yet better built than most. Best bang-for-buck, in my opinion.


If you need something heavy-duty, try searching for "C Stands" at B&amp;H. The cost will be heavy-duty, too, though.

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Originally Posted by OiCecil

bardinjw - Thanks, I'll definitely look into the radio triggers. I have heard some reports of interference between Speedlites and PocketWizards though, is this something I should really be concerned about?

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The only problems I've heard of are with the new canon ttl models that have issues with interference from the speedlight itself. The Plus II models still work great though. I went with cybersyncs because they're much less expensive, and I don't think I'll ever need the extra range.

I went with RadioPopper due in part to the interference problem (and a few other reasons). Great product, but the company's not so hot... they're months and months behind on product release dates (ie I was told their new JrX would be out "on time" in April, May latest, a week before they were set to ship... they still aren't out. You can't tell me they didn't have some sort of idea a week before that they weren't gonna make their own deadline) and their website is never updated. They're also a bit pricey (you can't order a transceiver, it either sends or receives, not both like some of the PW's can)... but like I said, great product. The only thing they don't have that I kinda miss sometimes is a second curtain sync option (which the PW Multimax can fake by delaying the flash output signal just a pinch) but Canon's Wireless E-TTL doesn't have that anyways so it's not like I lost anything.





You could always whip out the pc cords too ;)

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Originally Posted by bardinjw

The only problems I've heard of are with the new canon ttl models that have issues with interference from the speedlight itself. The Plus II models still work great though. I went with cybersyncs because they're much less expensive, and I don't think I'll ever need the extra range.
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I'm starting to lean more towards the PocketWizards now. The functionality and build quality looks great and, as long as interference isn't really going to be a problem, they're perfect.


The RadioPoppers still do seem like a slightly better product for me, but its waiting to see how much longer they delay the JrX. If they can get them out soon (or announce a reliable, soon-ish release date), then I'm sold.

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Originally Posted by lculpin

You could always whip out the pc cords too ;)

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But wireless has so much more sex appeal ;)


On a serious note though, the pc cords seem to have a lot less control than the shoe cords, which themselves aren't long enough. I've seen longer shoe cords on eBay but the build quality looks questionable. The last thing I want is a 430EX II falling off its stand.

I'm new to lighting too. I also have an XSi/450D. I've got two430EXs and aST-E2to control them. I just got an Impact Digital Flash Umbrella Mount Kit from B&amp;Hthat I'm enjoying. It's better than the price would seem to indicate. Everyone says the umbrellas are small at 32 inches but for getting started out they seem large enough, good for tight spaces (not to mention thin wallets). They start seeming huge at relatives houses that have 8 footceilings.


It's amazing what lighting can do. I've still got lens lust but it's between flareups on count ofST-E2is good enough for now, not to mention relatively cheap. I suspect itwould still be handy for indoor portraits, making your setups less cumbersome, even after you get an RF solution.

Got this today


http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=workaround.jsp&amp;A=details&amp;Q=&amp;sku =75852&amp;is=REG


and after a handful of shots, I am a big fan. It reminds me of that Annie Leibovitz lighting.

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Originally Posted by Jarhead5811

I'm new to lighting too. I also have an XSi/450D. I've got two430EXs and aST-E2to control them. I just got an Impact Digital Flash Umbrella Mount Kit from B&amp;Hthat I'm enjoying. It's better than the price would seem to indicate. Everyone says the umbrellas are small at 32 inches but for getting started out they seem large enough, good for tight spaces (not to mention thin wallets). They start seeming huge at relatives houses that have 8 footceilings.


It's amazing what lighting can do. I've still got lens lust but it's between flareups on count ofST-E2is good enough for now, not to mention relatively cheap. I suspect itwould still be handy for indoor portraits, making your setups less cumbersome, even after you get an RF solution.
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I've been considering ordering something around a 32-inch and a 60-inch together. That way I can start off with the 32-inch but if the occasion calls for it, can get some practice in with the larger umbrella.


Unfortunately a lot of my upcoming work will be in tricky situations to rely on the RF. But at the same time, the PocketWizard's may be a little out of my budget. What I may do is purchase a 580EX II and use that as an RF master, just until I can get the PocketWizard in my pocket (pun intended).


Again I'd like to thank you all for terrific comments and advice. :)

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Originally Posted by OiCecil

Unfortunately a lot of my upcoming work will be in tricky situations to rely on the RF. But at the same time, the PocketWizard's may be a little out of my budget. What I may do is purchase a 580EX II and use that as an RF master, just until I can get the PocketWizard in my pocket (pun intended).

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I believe Sean Setters uses: http://www.alienbees.com/remotes.html


I use: http://www.gadgetinfinity.com/product.php?productid=16766 My setup here: http://community.the-digital-picture.com/forums/t/1278.aspx


Both get the job done for way less than PWs.


Chuck

Yep, Chuck's right, I use Cybersyncs. I had used the Cactus V2s and CTR-301 radio triggers before upgrading, though. The reliability of Cybersyncs has made them well worth the added expense for me, especially when compared to the cost of Pocketwizards. However, they are designed to trigger manually adjusted flashes only--no TTL. I'm fine with that limitationhaving become quite comfortable manually adjusting flashes over the last couple of years.

Are CyberSyncs&trade; compatible with the:

• Canon 580EX II Speedlite?
• Canon 430EX Speedlite?

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Originally Posted by OiCecil

Unfortunately a lot of my upcoming work will be in tricky situations to rely on the RF. But at the same time, the PocketWizard's may be a little out of my budget. What I may do is purchase a 580EX II and use that as an RF master, just until I can get the PocketWizard in my pocket (pun intended).
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<span style="font-size: 9pt; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana;"]


<span style="font-size: 9pt; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana;"]Canon's built in remote triggering isInfrared (<span style="font-family: Verdana;"]IR), like you TV remote, hence it's natural limitations. In alarge room (25 footX 15 foot)in my house I don't need special consideration in my setup for my ST-E2to trigger my flashes. Even when using the umbrellas as shoot thru and locating them slightly behind the camera. I'm betting the ST-E2(and surely the 580EX or 580EX II) puts out quite a blast of IR, I'd like to get look at it with NVGs.<o:p></o:p>
<span style="font-size: 9pt; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana;"]





<span style="font-size: 9pt; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana;"]Pocketwizards and the like areRadio Frequency (<span style="font-family: Verdana;"]RF). Of course RF issuperiorin range, not susceptible to sunlight interference,and to my understanding can sync at higher shutter speeds. The only downside is if you want TTL support. Of all the RF systems I believe the new Pocketwizards are the only ones that support it. As a relative beginner I hate to give up that crutch. I may change my mind/get more competentbefore I get an RF system though.<o:p></o:p>

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Originally Posted by Mark Elberson

Are CyberSyncs&trade; compatible with the:

• Canon 580EX II Speedlite?
• Canon 430EX Speedlite?

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Yes, however you need a way to plug in the Cybersync receiver to the flash. I personally use this from FlashZebra. It allows me to use the Cybersync with all of my flashes (exceptthe Vivitar DF400MZ for some reason). You can even purchase a slave trigger with a miniphone jack that will allow you to fire the flash optically.


I know the 580EX II has a sync port built in, which could be used I'm sure, but I don't know what kind of male cord it requires.

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Originally Posted by Jarhead5811

<span style="font-family: Verdana; color: #000000; font-size: 9pt;"]<span style="font-family: Verdana; color: #000000; font-size: 9pt;"]The only downside is if you want TTL support. Of all the RF systems I believe the new Pocketwizards are the only ones that support it.



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RadioPopper PX triggers came out way before the new Pocketwizard units. We owe the existance of the new Pocketwizard units to the development of Radiopoppers. Without them, Pocketwizards would have never gotten off their rear-ends to produce such a product. And to date, Radiopoppers are much more reliable in the TTL department than the new Pocketwizards are.


Keep in mind I'm not a fan of the Radiopopper company itself. But I've only heard good things about their PX products.

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Originally Posted by Sean Setters

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Originally Posted by Mark Elberson

Are CyberSyncs&trade; compatible with the:

• Canon 580EX II Speedlite?
• Canon 430EX Speedlite?

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Yes, however you need a way to plug in the Cybersync receiver to the flash. I personally use [url="http://www.flashzebra.com/products/0128/index.shtml]this[/url] from FlashZebra. It allows me to use the Cybersync with all of my flashes (exceptthe Vivitar DF400MZ for some reason). You can even purchase a slave trigger with a miniphone jack that will allow you to fire the flash optically.


I know the 580EX II has a sync port built in, which could be used I'm sure, but I don't know what kind of male cord it requires.
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Thanks Sean!


I know that the 580EX II has a PC input but I didn't think the 430EX had one so I was concerned that they wouldn't work with CyberSyncs&trade;. I am currently having fun with Canon's Wireless (IR) E-TTL. I'veonly used it for macro work so farbut have been really happy with how it has performed. My next purchase will be some light stands and umbrellas for portraiture, etc. It's great to know that if I feel limited by the Wireless (IR) that I can always upgrade to Wireless (RF) and still be able to use all of my Speedlites. If I do buy a Wireless (RF) system it will be CyberSyncs&trade;. I can't justify the price for either the E-TTL enabled PocketWizard or radiopoppers over learning to set my flashes manually. The good news is that I can always practice with what I've got now because Canon's Wireless (IR) can be used with manual flash settings as well.

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Originally Posted by Jarhead5811

<span style="font-size: 9pt; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana;"]As a relative beginner I hate to give up that crutch. I may change my mind/get more competentbefore I get an RF system though.

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Jarhead,


That's a bad crutch.


Suggestion: Put your flash in manual 1/2 power, set the camera to manual 1/125th, f8 and fire.


Aperture controls flash exposure: turn aperture up or down to increase/decrease exposure. (this is regardless of shutter speed)


Shutter Speed controls ambient: Turn shutter speed up or down to control ambient mix. That's what E-TTL evaluative/average does in Av mode.


Thisis the initial setupfor a simple 3 flash Vivitar285HV scene:


Main: 60" unmbrella 1/2 power (set as close as possible to subject(s))


Fill: 48" umbrella 1/4 power ( move away to lessen amount of fill)


Halo/Rim Light: Honl 8" snoot 1/16 power.


I'll switch the umbrellas if I want harder key and softer more even fill. I'll shoot thru the 60 to really soften it up.


Camera: ISO 200, f8, 1/125th (adjust shutter to increase/decrease shadow) (adjust aperature to increase/decrease dof) (increase/decrease ISO for overall exposure brightness/offfset an aperture adjustment)


Using TTL as a crutch will never help you understand what is going on with your lights. The time it takes to experiment is negligible and costs nothing except time and batteries (unless you use NiMH)


So, I challenge you to try what I just listed with one - three off-camera lights. I find it's a lot easier than predictingwhat E-TTL is going to do and the cost of a few cactus triggers and few manual flash heads is still less than one 580EXII.


Ask, Sean, he'll agree, it's a piece o' cake. And the benefit is that you know how to control it.


Chuck

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Originally Posted by Chuck Lee

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jarhead5811

<span style="font-size: 9pt; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana;"]As a relative beginner I hate to give up that crutch. I may change my mind/get more competentbefore I get an RF system though.

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Jarhead,


That's a bad crutch.


Suggestion: Put your flash in manual 1/2 power, set the camera to manual 1/125th, f8 and fire.


Aperture controls flash exposure: turn aperture up or down to increase/decrease exposure. (this is regardless of shutter speed)


Shutter Speed controls ambient: Turn shutter speed up or down to control ambient mix. That's what E-TTL evaluative/average does in Av mode.


Thisis the initial setupfor a simple 3 flash Vivitar285HV scene:


Main: 60" unmbrella 1/2 power (set as close as possible to subject(s))


Fill: 48" umbrella 1/4 power ( move away to lessen amount of fill)


Halo/Rim Light: Honl 8" snoot 1/16 power.


I'll switch the umbrellas if I want harder key and softer more even fill. I'll shoot thru the 60 to really soften it up.


Camera: ISO 200, f8, 1/125th (adjust shutter to increase/decrease shadow) (adjust aperature to increase/decrease dof) (increase/decrease ISO for overall exposure brightness/offfset an aperture adjustment)


Using TTL as a crutch will never help you understand what is going on with your lights. The time it takes to experiment is negligible and costs nothing except time and batteries (unless you use NiMH)


So, I challenge you to try what I just listed with one - three off-camera lights. I find it's a lot easier than predictingwhat E-TTL is going to do and the cost of a few cactus triggers and few manual flash heads is still less than one 580EXII.


Ask, Sean, he'll agree, it's a piece o' cake. And the benefit is that you know how to control it.


Chuck
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<span style="font-size: 10pt; color: #000000; font-family: Arial;"]Chuck, <o:p></o:p>


<span style="font-size: 10pt; color: #000000; font-family: Arial;"]Thanks for the tips. I know at some point I'm going to make the switch from E-TTL to manual (when it makes sense to). If I'm taking snapshots around the house or at family gatherings and just using one shoe-mounted flash I think E-TTL makes more sense. I always shoot in Manual (camera setting) so that I can control the amount of ambient light and depth of field. Up to this point I have let the flash figure out the exposure (I only recently added more than one Speedlite to my kit) but with off-camera flash and multiple-flash setups I can definitely see the advantage of using manual flash.<o:p></o:p>


<span style="font-size: 10pt; color: #000000; font-family: Arial;"]Jarhead and I already have invested in multipleCanon Speedlites (Jarhead has two 430EX Speedlites and I have one 580EX II Speedlite &amp; two 430EX Speedlites) so we can't go back and buy 3 Vivitar 285HV's for what I spent on my Canon 580EX II Speedlite but we can use our already purchased Speedlites and set them in manual. I plan on purchasing <span style="font-family: Arial;"]CyberSyncs&trade; when I'm ready to take the plunge.<o:p></o:p>


<span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;"]For all others out there who don't have $$$ already invested in Canon Speedlites (and are feeling brave [:P]) I would suggest taking Chuck's advice and purchasing 3 Vivitar 285HV's and RF slaves to fire them. I don't regret my decision one bit though (although I admittedly spent more money) because it affords me the utmost in flexibility for I can easily do either (IR) E-TTL or (RF) Manual flash setups.

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Originally Posted by Chuck Lee

....adjust shutter to increase/decrease shadow

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Sorry if this isa dumb question but will a faster or slower shutter speed result in decreasedshadows?

Adjusting the shutter speed will regulate how much ambient light gets exposed in your image. So in effect, a slower shutter speed will decrease the darkness of the shadows ifthere isambient light (which is most of the time, I imagine).

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Originally Posted by Sean Setters

RadioPopper PX triggers came out way before the new Pocketwizard units. We owe the existance of the new Pocketwizard units to the development of Radiopoppers. Without them, Pocketwizards would have never gotten off their rear-ends to produce such a product. And to date, Radiopoppers are much more reliable in the TTL department than the new Pocketwizards are.


Keep in mind I'm not a fan of the Radiopopper company itself. But I've only heard good things about their PX products.

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That's good to know.

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Originally Posted by Chuck Lee

That's a bad crutch.
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Yea, the more I think about it the more I think I'll put off getting an RF system until I'm up to speed on manual flash use. I already shoot almost entirely with the camera in manual.


To my understanding there wouldn't be a problem using my 430EXs with a mixture of manual only flashes, would there? How does the power output of the Vivitar285HV you mentioned compare to the 430EXand 580EX?

Mark,


Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that one should shoot manual all the time. When I'm covering a reception, family event, etc. I use TTL flash and usually shoot in manual or Av mode. If it's fairly bright inside I'll use evaluative from time to time. Though, I have to admit that the last couple of family parties I was at I did a two light, corner to corner crosslight deal. That required manual. It's sort of funny, the more I shoot flash the more I gravitate towards manual control. Come to think of it, I don't havea TTL flash in my bag right now, just a 285HV with a cactus trigger attached. If you've never shot manual with a Thyristor flash, I suggest you try it. TTL has noth'n on accurate, repeatable flash exposure. I'm rambln'


When it comes to multi-light setups I would be completely confused at how TTL would work. I guess the ratio between lights would come from some sort of Exposure Compensation setting on each flash. That would be the same as manually setting the power output of my Vivitars. You can always modify with diffusers, umbrellas, distance, etc.to tweak the power, direction, shape etc.


You guys have some killer flash units that have more power and capability than my inexpensive Vivitar setup. TTL via RF is quite amazing, but Icannot find the value (cost/benefit) of using these devices. Now, if someone can show mesome major benefits of a TTL-RF based light system over the manual one I use right now then I'm all ears!!


Now, I sort of think the crutch is the other way around.


Chuck

The 580EXII (And also the SB-800) has got the highest output and quickest recycling time of any flash on the market. It's the bomb. I believe the specs on the 420EX are about the same. The 285HV is pretty strong, I believe GN 140 as compared to the 580 GN 180. You have to remember that that is at full zoom on both heads. The 285 has a manual pull head with three locations and an extra diffuser for wide angle. The 420 and 580 are both motorized. The 580 and 420(I believe)can both do high speed strobe flash. I think only Nixon strobes can do this as well. No other third party strobe has this capablity to sync higher than 1/250th. (1/200th on 5D)


You are correct that you can use your strobes in manual mode. The added benefit of using the nice Canon strobes is the short recycling rate. I added lead acid batteries to my Vivitars to help them along. I get 1 sec recycle at 1/2 power and around 4 sec at full.


Another wonderful thing about Canon flashes or the SB series by Nikon is that the flash power can be adjusted in 1/2 or 1/3 stop increments. My Vivitars limit me to Full, 1/2,1/4,1/16. I don't even get a 1/8th so the flash jumps two stops on the last two settings. There is a wonderful thing called neutral density gel that takes care of that. But it can be somewhat time dependent.


Yeap, this is a good thread. Happy to participate. Jarhead, don't forget to spend some time with Dave Hobby over at strobist.com. His material is free and worth every penny of it.


Chuck

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Originally Posted by Chuck Lee

Mark,


Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that one should shoot manual all the time
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<p style="CLEAR: both"]No worries Chuck [:D] Sorry if I came off as defensive! I've really been enjoying this thread as off-camera flash is a subject that I am very interested in. I can't wait to get my feet wet with some manual setups!!

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Originally Posted by Chuck Lee

...I think only Nixon strobes can do this as well. No other third party strobe has this capablity to sync higher than 1/250th. (1/200th on 5D)
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Actually, when talking about on-camera flash use the Canon and Nikon flashes can do a high-speed sync. However, off-camera, it's not the flash really that allows for higher shutter speeds--it's the camera. Some Nikon cameras have an electronic shutter instead of the mechanical shutter of the Canon system. This allows the entire sensor to be exposed during a short amount of time avoiding the frame-blocking of the mechanical leaves.


The new Pocketwizards, however, can enable a slightly faster shutter speed than your max rated sync speed. They do this by regulating the timing of the firiing of the strobe relative to your camera's triggering signal. You can even program the timing for optimal effect. It's not a huge gain, but I think you can get up to 1/400 sec on the 5dMkII without shutter blockage from what I've read.

Sean, do you know if Canon's Wireless E-TTL allows for High-Speed Sync?


This is how Canon explains High-Speed Sync. I thought this was pretty cool.


[img]/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.00.26.13/High_2D00_Speed-Sync.jpg[/img]

Sean, not sure how that works on the 5D MKII because of the mechanical limitation of the shutter curtain. Marks illustration of high speed sync shows the problem. The 1st and 2nd curtain above 1/200th on my 5D M I or 1/250th on my 40D move together at some point during the frame. The full frame is never exposed at any one moment in time above these sync speeds. The only way to fully expose the whole frame is to be able to hold the flash burst on as the two shutters move across the frame. Otherwise, pick 1st or 2nd curtain sync, shoot at 1/400 and crop. Or have a flash head that can emmit light at a given luinosity for better than 1/250th of a second.


Electronic shutter..... no problem.


Mark....cool chart.


Dang, Dave Hobby did a great Blog post on all this topic but right now I'm unable to locate a link for it. He even had photos he'd taken during a sunny day where the curtain shadow was part of the scene and it worked!! I'll look later tonight and see ifI can find it.


Jarhead, here's a good one on triggers: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101-pc-cords-and-pocket.html

I was incorrect about the 5DMII with the new Pocketwizards at 1/400 sec. With Hypersync and 1/320 sec, a distinct shutter can be seen at the bottom of the frame, but it's not a whole lot. It's still better at 1/400 sec than trying to use a wired trigger.


Check out these results by Rob Galbraith. He tests curtain visibility at different shutter speeds with a Dyna-Lite Arena pack.


It's long, but check out an earlier page on the same site for a full explanation of how Hypersync works. Just scroll down to the Hypersync heading.

Cool Article,


As you can tell I don't shoot over 1/160th in the studio with my 5d, cactus and AB800's. The Vivitars sync up fine at 1/200 with the cactus triggers.


BTW this is the best I could do from strobist: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2008/01/control-your-world-with-ultra-high-sync.html


I know there's more there. I feel like such a search weeny!


Chuck

Here's one example: What a cheat!! Absolutely cool!!


<span style="color: #810081;"]http://strobist.blogspot.com/search?q=sync+speed


I'm not a search weeny after all.

Woops....here's the link:


http://strobist.blogspot.com/2008/10/great-video-on-overclocking-your-sync.html