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Hi guys! I got myself a cheap flash diffuser (probably a Sto Fen clone) for my 580 EX II. It comes in three colors, white, blue and yellow. This seems to be a newbie question, but how do I use them? Or rather, how do I use them properly? I've read some that it should be positioned to a max of 45 degrees towards the ceiling. What are the strengths and weaknesses of using this diffuser aside from a few light loss?
Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph
First of all, I'd like to note that a Sto Fen (or comparable knock-off) will not give you really soft gradient from light to shadow. It will help a little bit; and yes, it'll steal some power from your flash. If you really want flattering lighting, you'd be better off making the light source much larger by using an umbrella or softbox.
However, as far as your question goes...put the flash anywhere that produces the results you're looking for. I realize that's a bit of a cop out, but it's true. Yes, having the light at a 45 degree angle is a common setup. However, it's certainly not the only setup.
In this shot, the sun was on the other side of the train. We were completely in shadow. I positioned the flash (diffused by a small umbrella) behind the subect leaving most of the camera-side part of his face exposed solely by ambient. The shot works well because it has more of a masculine feel to it (it's kind of an extreme example of short lighting).
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3493/...64f9f2ab30.jpg
In this shot, the subject is looking right at the flash which is diffused by a small softbox on the other side of the pool:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2649/...0fc8fbb946.jpg
Go out and shoot. Move the light around and see how the results change. Shoot the light through things (like umbrellas or bedsheets) and see how the shadows get softer. By experimentation, you'll find lighting styles that work best for you.
Thanks Sean! Those are very impressive and helpful shots. I'm aware that umbrellas and softbox are the way, but due to budget constraints, start with something less. So far I've tried shooting with most of the light coming from the flash. The white cap works well but both yellow and blue cap creates a very yellow/blue tone. I tried another shot with most of the ambient light and fill flash, it worked very well this time. Will try to post some shots tomorrow.
Thanks again!
Hey Ralph,
I ussually point the flast straight up (if inside) with a +2 FEC, or straight at the subject for fill flash with a -2 FEC in lower lights and maybe -1 if outside in brighter lights. The 580 has nice manual controls but i preffer to keep in on the auto ttl and control it in the menu with flash exposure compensation.
I would recommend never using a flash on the camera pointing straight forward as your primary light source. This will lead to bad shadows and poor lighting ratios between the background and the subject.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph
You might want to try something kind neat--with that yellow cap on, take a shot. Then shift the white balance so that the yellow light becomes white (take a picture of a white piece of paper then adjust in post processing until it's white again). Now you should have a very blue background while having a subject that looks normal. It's kind of a neat effect if done properly. However, it looks even better the warmer you make the light coming from your flash. With a warming gel, you can shift the ambient light to blue while maintaining a warm light on your subject.
Something like this:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1005/...8ee1fbb998.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph
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If you are on a budget and can't do the off camera stuff, I'd recommend a Gary Fong over the Sto-Fen. It is a much softer light. Not perfect but much softer. I've actually used the Gary Fong off camera as a fill light in real tight areas. It gives off a diffused bare bulb coverage where the Sto-Fen doesn't look that diffused.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith B
I asked the Fong VS Honl question in the Strobist Flickr group and got directed to these. See full thread here.
Personally, being the budget minded (read: cheap) person I am, I'm going to try a take out soup container from a local restaurant. At least to see if the GF is worth the cash. (I know they wont be super close in comparison, but it'll be some platform to make a decision from.
Rodger
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodger
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I love how ALL these flash diffusers say "near studio" quality. Even the Gary Fong does. All I have to say is...Not even close. Better than bare flash but please don't think you will ever get near studio out of these.
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Hi! Sorry for the late post. Anyways, here are samples of my shots using these caps. Don't mind the picture quality as I am just aiming on how to use these caps. Lighting is quite a challenge.
Here's the one with blue cap on
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/3374/img9646q.jpg
With the yellow cap on
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/4286/img9648q.jpg
And the original (or used with the white cap??)
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/7631/img9644m.jpg
Additionally, I found something useful with these colored caps:
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/1091/img9654x.jpg
yellow
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/7363/img9655o.jpg
blue
Take note of the pin light. Strobist should have lots of fun playing with these colored diffusers.
Looks like it's back to the catchlight panel technique with shooting outdoors and use the diffusers mostly on tight quarters.
I'm a bit disapointed to be honest Ralph - I don't see any Bundaberg Rum on top of that fridge! [:D]
Quote:
Originally Posted by btaylor
Well, I didn't took shots of the cupboard where they were stored [:D]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph
Ralph,
I have one stofen diffuser and never use it. I find that when shooting indoors bouncing the light off the wall and ceiling creates much more natural looking shots. I use some sort of gel usually 1/2 CTO or 1 CTO to balance the color temperature of my flash with the color temperature of the incandescent lights in the room. This is getting harder now do to CFL technologies. You now need to also add a 1/4-1/2 pale green gel to color deflect the green associated with flourescents. But this doesn't quite answer your question.
The trick to good flash lighting stofen diffuser at 45 degrees or bounce is to use a high ISO. I shoot most of the time at ISO 800, f4, 1/60th to 1/125th. Photojournalists use stofens not to soften the light but to reduce the harshness and fill in shadows. For instance, when shooting at an indoor event, stadium, church, large hall, press conference. There is usually enough light to properly expose at ISO 800-1600, f2.8-f4.0,1/60th to 1/200th but the shadows around the eyes from overhead lighting make the subject look really sick. What you desire todo is to flash in enough color balanced light to fill those shadowed areas and make the subject look like a healthy human. That is why you see so many photojournalists using it at 45. It is also off-axis and reduces the red-eye effect. It also brings out more color and makes skin tones look better. Last but not least, it improves sharpness.
Try experimenting with manual mode and flash compensation. Take a few test shots until the subject and environment are around a 1/2 ev under exposed. Optimum settings are ISO800, f4, 1/60th. Now, turn on the flash, set flash compensation at 0, aim the flash sideways and behind you a little at the corner of a wall/ceiling. Take a few shots. Aim your flash in different directions and note the effect. If you don't get enough light from the bounce try turning up the flash compensation a little until you get enough. If too much, do the opposite.
Repeat this type of procedure in a large hall using the stofen a 45 degrees. There, you may have to comp down a little.
The very important rulesare:
1) Aperture controls the exposure of the light from the flash regardless of shutter speed. Read this 4 times
2) Shutter Speed controls the level of ambient light. slower shutter more ambient, faster shutter, less ambient. Read 2 times.
Experiment with these two rules and you will see your flash photographing greatly improved.
I posted this just recently on the pets thread. Itook it using bounce flash technique.
http://ChuckLee.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p925353212-3.jpg
Canon EOS 5D, EF 28-70 f2.8L @ <span class="nowrap"]f/4& <span class="nowrap"]70 mm, <span class="nowrap"]1/60, <span class="nowrap"]ISO 800, <span class="nowrap"]Flash (1/2 CTO), bounced against the wall ceiling camera left. I'm not sure but flash comp was probably around +1/2-1. My Quantaray 9550 doesn't have near the power of a 580 EXII.
<span class="nowrap"]Hope this helps......2 [:)]
Very informative Mr. Chuck Lee! I'll definitely give those techniques a try. Would you mind telling me what CTO is? I'm not so sure what that abbreviation means [:P]
Hi Ralph,
To [hopefully] answer your questions.
The white one is used when you just take a "normal" photo using your 580. It will soften the harshness of the flash especially if you use it correctly [ not familiar with sto fen I use gary fong lightsphere].
The yellow you use when indoors and shooting in place lit with incandescent bulbs, just remember to set you white balance to incandescent bulb. It should give you a more natural looking / "ambient light" effect rather than when you shoot with just a white a white diffuser or bare flash whereby you will tend to see you become become bluish and the background in somewhat orange color which is not really nice.
Blue ones are usually used to give a cooler look to a picture. I remember I used to use an 80a color correction filter when I was still shooting film. I use this when I myself taking the picture of a subject illuminated by those video lights that give off a somewhat orange light. But now in the digital age I haven't really tried shooting with a blue diffuser.
By the way CTO means Color Temperature Orange at least thats what I remember it to mean. heheh[:D]
Hope this helps
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph
Your Welcome... I think jk_photo's got it right. Here's the list at Rosco
Here's a great resource for learning more: Strobist.com\Lighting 101\Using Gels to Correct Light