Photographing stainless steel finishes

<p class="MsoNormal"]<span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"]Hello.
<p class="MsoNormal"]<span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"]I am trying to shoot samples of various stainless steel finishes. The finishes vary in scratch pattern orientation, depth and linearity. My goal is to include them in a 1 page reference sheet. The actual size of the sample photos will be small (about 1&rdquo; square). I plan to crop them very tight. The goal is to be able to show the textures from sample to sample for comparison purposes.
<p class="MsoNormal"]<span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"]My first attempts are VERY mediocre. I used a 30D with an EF 100-400mmat various focal lengths. I lit the samples with halogen work lights positioned roughly at 45&deg; to the sides.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"] For the color temperature, I shot an 18% grey card to set the color temperature in the camera. I also used a TC-80NC Timer Remote Controller to snap the pictures. The tripod is an old Vivitar 914.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"] I used the following settings ISO 100, f8.0, 1/10 sec. with the goal of getting the best possible picture quality.
<p class="MsoNormal"]<o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"]</o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"]Other equipment in my kit: a Speedlight 580EX II flash, Off camera shoe cord, EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM, EF 1.4x II Extender, B+W Circular polarizer.
<p class="MsoNormal"]<o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"]</o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"]I found getting the pictures in focus was difficult and not consistent:
<p class="MsoNormal"]<span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"]1) It was very hard to focus on the details up close.
<p class="MsoNormal"]<span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"]2) I think my tripod is not up to the task.
<p class="MsoNormal"]<span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"]3) Using the mirror lock-up function may have helped.
<p class="MsoNormal"]<o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"]</o:p>
<p class="MsoNormal"]<span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"]For an added degree of difficulty, the stainless surfaces are actually part of a stainless steel sink, so even though I am trying to shoot flat surfaces, the rectangular shape of the product makes it more difficult to light.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"] Any suggestions how I can get better results? Enclosed are 2 samples for reference.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"] Thanks.


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If you're wanting to see the actual detail in the finish of the stainless steel, you might need an actual macro lens. If you don't want to purchase one, you might benefit from renting a macro lens for a week.

Perhaps you can get there cheaply with a close-up filter. For these shots I used aCanon 75-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM (original, not the III), a Sony 3358 close-up filter (like the 250D or 500D Canon filters). Lighting was provided by my stove hood. Handheld. The salt is the full frame, scaled to 800 wide. The Toonie is cropped a bit on the sides, and a little on top to match the out-of-frame bottom. Judging by the date, I'd had the T1i for under 2 weeks at the time, so no particular skill level was required. :)


Note that close-up filters turn your zoom into a magnification. The more zoom the more magnified. The Toonie as 120mm could have been blown up much more for further detail. I've got a zoomed shot of a quarter. I can see about 1/3 of it... unfortunately blurry as I couldn't hand hold it.


Toonie - 120mm, F/20,1/100s,ISO-800.


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/...ecdd481e_o.jpg


Salt Shaker - 300mm, F/20 1/250s, ISO-3200.


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4048/...7d5ce055_o.jpg

nice closeup pictures.

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Originally Posted by Colin

nice closeup pictures.
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I especially like the coin...

Thanks David! The texture on the coin is Very good and to the level I'm looking for. I'll consider the close-up lens as a low cost solution.

Thanks Sean! Good advise.

Tip:


Light, Science And Magic: An introduction to photographic lighting.





It deals with objects that require a certain way of lighting to be photographed. Things like metal, brass, glass etc. All kinds of surfaces. It's an easy book and it works like a charm.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WM3

Any suggestions how I can get better results?

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This guy has some great tips. Strobist.com

I didn't know that toonies are made of stainless. Thats the coin shot. Nice closeup on the coin. [:)]

Metal and glass, its all about the reflections - and to hold focus you may need to go from f/8 to f/16 or even f/22, so a bunch of light too. I've shot larger pieces like this by shooting through a hole in some foam board and surrounding the subject with as much white as possible. A few 4x6 foot panels getting full flash power sure helped. BTW - With speedlights there is probably no reason to shoot at 1/10th, a safe 1/250th (or better) can avoid slight blur from mirror shake etc (assuming it is not locked up).


BTW - I actually just bought a 4th 580exII just to deal with some metallic subjects,.. set that room a light! and good luck.


-Shea