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I had a chance to shoot some interiors of a great house. Here's my favorite photo that I would like some C&C. I tried to do it for the sake of experience and trying learn something new.
Well aside from lack of DOF, I hope other insights on this.
1000D + kit lens @ 25mm, f/11, 3.2 secs, ISO 200
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_7nO3EBpvAsc/TI...0/IMG_0351.JPG
Thank you for viewing.
Nice composition! Since you were the only one of us who was actually there, you'd have the best insight into the colors and whether or not they are accurate (if accuracy is a goal). The white balance looks a tad warm to me, though. Canon's Auto WB doesn't always to the best job with tungsten lighting - I find it helpful to shoot RAW and then correct in post. You can adjust color temperature until you get the WB you want, or include a WB reference in one shot and then pick up a click white balance during RAW processing (I use a Datacolor SpyderCube or anX-Rite ColorChecker Passport for that).
--John
Nice shot. A custom white balance might have been an improvement. Also would have liked to see the room from a wider perspective but since I wasn't there maybe there were things that would have taken away from the shot. All in all I like it.
Tom
The Clock is crooked. [;)] Only Kidding!
Itlooks good to me, but I agree with the white balance adjustment, as it looks a tad on the warm side.
Rich
Thank you for the boost of confidence John, Tom, and Rich!
I shot this in RAW and adjusted the WB as it was really 'warm' compared to this one. Lemme give it another look tonight and adjust more the WB to a 'cooler' light.
I guess the tricky part was having tungsten as main light, cloudy daylight on right (it had floor to ceiling window walls), and some patches of fluorescent light.
Thank you again for your comments.
Again, I've learned something new form you guys.. about the custom WB. I should have tried using it. I guess I was too busy on composition, exposure, or most probably just lack of experience.
Here's the 'cooled' photo (I think this is better):
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_7nO3EBpvAsc/TJ...IMG_0351_2.JPG
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Originally Posted by MrGreenBug
That's definitely a tricky lighting situation. The only thing you're missing is some fill flash, to throw yet another color temperature into the mix... [:P]
That's exactly the sort of situation where I'd throw a WB reference into a test shot for later.
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Originally Posted by MrGreenBug
I like it better, too. I'm a big fan of getting the WB right, that was one of the main reasons I switch to RAW - so I could adjust WB in post without penalty.
You can certainly do a custom WB on site, but if you're shooting in RAW, IMO it's easier to just do it in post. I think the only times I'd set an in-camera custom WB would be if I was going to shoot jpgs indoors - but I don't ever shoot JPG (even my P&S - an S95 - shoots in RAW). Else, I just find it easier to tweak in post.
Excellent fix. If we all remain open minded to each others comments we all improve as photographers. I think that is what this forum is about, or at least should be. But since we are a bunch of egotists it can be difficult at times. Lol!!
Tom
<div>I try to achieve this too (at least most of the time) and that's why I shoot in RAW 99% of the time. [:D] I really don't have any experience on in-camera custom white balance.</div>Quote:
Originally Posted by neuroanatomist
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Originally Posted by Tom Wertman
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Thanks Tom. I do like the fix better. And yeah, sometimes our egos get in the way of improvement. [:D]
I like the shot, especially after the WB tweak. The only question I have is about the framing. While I am sure the shot was tight and it sounds like the windows created a real challenge, I feel like the left side of the frame (the sink in particular) is clipped -- kind of like a portrait that cuts off a person's arm at the elbow. Would it have been possible to zoom out a little to include more of the sink and its undercabinet? I understand why you wanted to keep the doorway in the shot, as it provides some nice depth to the shot.
Nice shot Angelo, the second is definitely better toned than the first one [Y] I like the angle and the field of view. However I think the window on the right isn't adding much to the picture if I must be honest. Personally I think I would have removed it by cropping. But nonetheless it's a very nice shot.
I like to do the white-balance just as John does. Correct it in post-processing. I just bought a grey card set which I'm planning on using in some more serious photos. Just make sure it's in the frame at one shot and keep shooting auto-white-balance. And then adjust all the photos in the same lighting in post-processing with the sample image I shot of the grey card.
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Originally Posted by MrGreenBug
Haha +1, also my stubbornness isn't really helping out from time to time [:P] If I think I'm right...try to stop me [;)] But yeah if you/me/we keep respecting and valuing eachothers opinions, we could all improve a lot.
Jan
I too thought the picture was warm. I have had the same problem with the AWB on Canon cameras not getting the WB right on interior tungsten.
Most of my interior pictures are family, and really I do not want to spend much time doing post processing on them even thoug I do RAW. My fix has been to shoot in Kelvin (K) and adjust the setting before I start shooting the camera.
Does any one have advice how to get accurate WB in camera so you need no post processing?
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Originally Posted by HDNitehawk
Custom white balance using a gray card. Gray cards can be purchased at photographic retailers (like B&H, Adorama, etc). You take a picture of the [18%] gray card, and set your custom white balance to that picture. In a sense, you're telling your camera that the gray card is neutral, so it shifts the color spectrum on the following pictures as if to make that gray card picture the correct gray.
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Originally Posted by HDNitehawk
Yes absolutely. Look at ExpoImaging products like ExpoCap and ExpoDisc. I use the ExpoCap and love the consistant results I get. It is a simple filter snapped onto the lens.One shot is taken in P mode while pointing the camera at the light source. The ExpoCap is then removed. That shot is then used in camera to set the custom WB. Simple to use if shooting JPG.
Without creating another RAW vs. JPG debate I personnally use JPG 98% of the time and here is why. JPG compresses the file by removing what is not visible to the naked eye. At the end of the day I want my clients to be happy with their photos and they are because they can't tell the difference. They don't know much about post processing and they do not scutinize photos like photographers do. They simply buy, frame and enjoy. This saves a tremendous amount of PP time and when you are talking 1000+ wedding photos that is huge. I know that may rub some purists the wrong way but it is a practicle solution. For those who enjoy shooting RAW and PP it is a personal choice. If I was a high end photog with high end clientele I would probably have to shoot RAW. But I am not. Perception can become reality unfortunately.
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Originally Posted by HDNitehawk
A grey-card works like a charm. Make a shot and use the custom white balance choice in your camera's menu.
Or use a piece of typing paper. It will work approximately good, but of course never as good as an 18% grey card.
Info-video from Youtube
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Originally Posted by HDNitehawk
You could try setting a custom WB (where you shoot a gray or white card that fills most of the frame, then choose that in the image after selecting Custom WB from one of the shooting menus), and set your WB to Custom. Instead of a gray card, you can also use one of the WB filters that hash the incoming light to 18% gray (ExpoDisc, ColorRight, etc.).
Depending on how accurate you want it to be, you may need to redo the custom WB for different settings (for example, rooms in my house have different proportions of tungsten and fluorescent lighting, and before the sun goes down there are varying amounts of daylight entering from outside, which may or may not be filtered by clouds or sheer curtains).
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<div>Thank you! I never thought about that sink being cut off like a person's arm in portraits and I think that's a good point to consider next time.</div>Quote:
Originally Posted by thekingb
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Originally Posted by thekingb
Yes, it was possible but I really never thought if it that way until now that you've pointed it out. [:D]
<div>About this door, well I wanted something to reference to a pathway and not just having some two-sided box. Now that you've provided another way of looking at it, I guess it makes sense more now to me.</div>Quote:
Originally Posted by thekingb
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Originally Posted by Sheiky
Thanks Jan! I usually do my WB adjustment too in post-process by adjusting the color temp through the Kelvin scale. I guess I have to get myself a grey card then so I can try this custom WB.
Thank you again for your comments and critique. I surely did learn a lot today. [Y][:D]
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Wertman
Perhaps you're right and I can understand your point of view. If I had to give immediate results I would have done the same. However I think your clients must not be the only ones that are happy. If I'm not happy with the results, but the clients are. I'm still unsatisfied. Therefor I strive to get the maximum out of my pictures and RAW absolutely helps with that. Because I know clients are not hard to satisfy, but I am [:P] And since hard-drives don't cost a fortune and the adjustments in post-processing in RAW and JPEGs take an equal amount of time, I'm voting for RAW. The only downside of RAW-files is that they consume more memory and time to compress and store, but that's a small price to pay.
I even shoot RAW at days where I shoot more than a 1000 pictures...even the smaller adjustments will look cleaner in RAW than in JPEG.
Jan
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrGreenBug
Just to point out, if you get the gray card you don't need to set the Custom WB on the camera. Just take a shot of the gray card in the room sometime during the shoot. Then when you PP, if you're using DPP select Click White Balance, click the eyedropper tool, and click that on the gray card. You can then register that setting (store up to 3) and apply it to subsequent images from the same lighting situation.
Cool! Thanks again for the tip! [Y]