any one out there use flash diffusers??? If so what kind do you use?? Basically i use on camera flash i.e. speedlites. I know off camera works well but I haven
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any one out there use flash diffusers??? If so what kind do you use?? Basically i use on camera flash i.e. speedlites. I know off camera works well but I haven
While we
I have a 580ex II, and im using gary fongs new collapsible lightsphere
www.garyfongestore.com/.../lightsphere-collapsible.html
For indoor us with low ceilings and bad lighting, it works wonders. I really dig his new one cuz it collapses, so if i need to use direct flash/bounce flash i don't have to take it off. He's got some in-depth videos showing the functionality of it. I do not believe that they need to be used in every situation, however just did an outdoor shoot with it for kicks and giggles, and it actually added just enough light to the front of my subject given the sun was directly behind him on most of the shots. flash was set to E-TTL, and was not quite as harsh as if i just did regular bouncing of the ground. I did use both during the shoot,(these photos are with the diffuser.) But that's what I like about the new one that gary makes is you can just push the thing in like an accordion when you don't want it. His older ones were bulky and were rather cumbersome. Here are some shots from the recent shoot. my 2 cents.
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@daniel ..."When I
The Gary Fong lightspheres are designed to be used indoors without the top off--meaning you get some direct flash on the subject and some bounce flash. It works decently under those conditions. However, without a ceiling or wall to bounce off of, the diffuser doesn't soften the light very much because it doesn't increase the size of the light source significantly.
If you really want pleasing results, get the flash off the camera and use something as simple as an umbrella. You'll be amazed at what you can do.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2092/...5d72378a32.jpg
I use a Sto-Fen Omnibounce, almost always bounced off the ceiling. Similar to the Fong, most of the light is bounced but some comes direct.
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Originally Posted by jks_photo
So you are specifically asking for indoor shooting situations?
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Originally Posted by Sean Setters
I second Sean on this one if you are doing a planned shoot in a relatively controlled environment. But I got the impression that you were looking for the versatility of taking portraits shots relatively freely about the room? Say a family Christmas gathering?? There's an off-camera setup that David Hobby blogged about for Christmas morning. It gives you the greatest versatility to light your subjects evenly, while lighting the room as well.
If you are not into strobism at this point, it maybe a steep learning curve before Christmas. But I think it'll be worth looking into. Once you get the setting right, you're free to move about as much as you want without having to worry about any settings. And it's relatively cheaper than you think [;)]
It's a 2 off camera speedlight setup for a single room, each speedlight placed on opposite corners of the room and bounced onto the ceiling to create a diffused crosslight for whom ever is standing in the room.
Minimal equipment you'll need: Two dumb speedlights, Wireless Trigger, & your camera (of course). No light stands or umbrellas. Maybe a hot shoe stand though. The flashes usually come with.
If you already have one speedlight, you can pick another decent dumb speedlight (oxymoron? [*-)]) for about $40. Like a YN460II.http://bit.ly/dR3ibs
The wireless trigger, I have the Cactus V4 Trigger/Receiver set, which if I remember correctly I got for $40ish as well.http://bit.ly/2OpHuH
So this setup is priced roughly $80-90. Here's the link for the full blog!!http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/12/christmas-game-plan-results.html
Some shots from David Hobby's blog (His real kids. Actual Christmas morning shots)
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thanks Sean for your input.... I have always admired your photos and how you use light....
@ Takahiro...
yes basically indoors photo shoot whereby I can also move around freely. I know it pays to take the timwe and setup the venue with the umbrellas and such but like I said I still haven
Quote:
Originally Posted by jks_photo
You don't necessarily need umbrellas for decently soft light. You can bounce light off the ceiling. And if the ceiling is low enough , or the walls close enough, you can use bounce, bare flash to great effect.
I was recently in a situation where I needed to be mobile, yet the venue was very dimly lit (gymnasium). Fortunately, I was able to set up before the sweet 16 birthday party got underway. I set up 4 shoe-mount flashes (one in each corner) bare and pointed each a little toward the center of the ceiling (but not all the way). Then I used a White Lightning x1600 with the standard reflector pointed at the very center of the ceiling. Why so much power? The greater distance to the ceiling requires more power to get reasonably fast stills with optimal depth-of-field. The result?
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17-55mm f/2.8 IS @ 24mm, f/4, 1/160 sec, ISO 200
And yes, I could have upped the ISO more, but I wanted relatively clean shots. Bare flash, bounced off of ceiling = large light source and relatively pleasing results.
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Originally Posted by neuroanatomist
I also use a Sto-Fen Omnibounce when I shoot with flash on camera. I use it on a 580EXII and tilted to the 60º notch.
It was less cumbersome than the Gary Fong and I didn't like how flat the light was from the GF was.
It is much better to get the flash off the camera. I'd suggest a flash bracket to get the light further from the axis if it necessary to keep the flash tethered.
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Originally Posted by Keith B
I do have a Manfrotto flash bracket that allows me to get the flash >12" off the lens axis (in either orientation), but I haven't bothered using it if I know I'm going to bounce the flash off the ceiling. Would the bracket help even when bouncing the flash off the ceiling?
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Originally Posted by neuroanatomist
In my long list of "want list"...and it's LOOOONG [:P], I had the flash bracket paired with a miniature softbox that goes directly onto the flash (e.g. Lumiquest Softbox III) I would think bouncing off the ceiling alone wouldn't matter too much on or off camera.
So if I were to have a bracket I would get a miniature diffuser to create an angled catch light and a soft portrait lighting (granted you are fairly close to your subjects).
My better option is to get the Orbis ring flash. I love the circular catch light!! and it's surprisingly soft too from what I can tell from reviews.
EDIT: Now I was thinking...If you don't use on camera flash bouncing, the room would be dark with only the subject being lit. You could spend that extra $80 I mentioned earlier and have an off camera flash somewhere in the room provide the background exposure. It works because your on-camera flash would be tethered via cable, so your hotshoe would be open for the wireless trigger [:D]
Sorry most of my post are all strobism stuff. But just suggesting alternative approaches! [:)]
If I
Quote:
Originally Posted by neuroanatomist
Well I like to shoot at the 60º tilt so there is some direct light hitting subjects. I'm usually pretty please with my landscape oriented shots but portrait orientation are awful. So I like a bracket to get the flash above axis for portrait shots also.
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Originally Posted by Sean Setters
I do have a ring diffuser. I use the Ray Flash. It works pretty well. I find the practical uses are pretty few though. It is probably best as a fill light because at lower power it doesn't create shadows. If you power it up you will get the halo shadow around your subject while reducing contrast at the same time.
I don't have any examples handy right now. As I go through my archives over the weekend I can post some if they will help.
I like the Lumiquest Promax system: www.lumiquest.com/.../promax-system.htm
Also a large white index card taped/velcrowed to your flash set vertically works great as well for cheap.
I use the Speedlite Prokit 4 reflector with the diffuser attached. It works really well as it
I use the GF Universal Lightsphere, and have gotten excellent results most of the time. Setting the ISO higher will also help, but more often than not ISO 200 is fine.
In my living room, I have two light stands ready to go for a couple of strobes/umbrellas, depending on the event (mostly family stuff). I use Alien Bees for that, and trigger them with Pocket Wizards.
A might over the top, but it works great.
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Originally Posted by TakahiroW4047
Thanks for posting this suggestion. I tried it with two Sunpak 120J's with good results.
My grandkids
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And my son who is very scary in the morning
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Mark