My frustration level is at its peak right now!

I took a vacation day from work today on spur of the momentin hopes of getting some decent bald eagle shots. Worst scenario I thought would be if the birds weren't there waiting for me when I arrived but sure enough there they were! Flying high and sitting in the tree just waiting for me! [:D]


Lighting was perfect, I had my 7d, 100-400mm, remote shutter release, tripod, 1.4x II extension and tripod! All good to go! Photos are looking absolutely awesome on my camera!!! My spirits are flying about as high as these birds and then ...I get home, load them on the computer and they look horrible!!! My spirits have taken a flying dive into the toilet! [:'(]


I am only few keystrokes away from selling almost all of my photography equipment & buying a 1d mk III or IV and a 600mm lens and be done with it.


When I started photography a year ago, all of it was so exciting ...birding, portraits, everything! But the last few times out with the camera, I found out one fact ...my passion is in nature and wildlife, with or without a camera in hand. So, I am really wondering if I should even be owning anything other than what would be good for that purpose.


For anyone that reads this, thanks for listening!


Denise

You

Hi Denise,


Sorry to hear about your spririts taking a flying dive. I am sure it isn't warranted. Actually, I think Daniel Browning recently wrote to someone "Post the pictures or it didn't happen." So, pick a couple and let's see 'em! [:D]


BTW...I had a lot of trouble with eagles....I probably only kept 1 in 10 to15pictures I took. So, if your keeper rate is better than that, you are ahead of me!


Brant

Please post some, did you shoot raw or jpg? The back of your camera will look better than on the pc some times.

There, there, let it all out. Being a bloke I tend to like fixing things and if a mate has a problem we'll have a chat, a few uneasy silences, a couple of wines and come up with a whole heap of solutions.


But for you Denise, if you are frustrated, I still think a couple of wines and a friendly ear is all that I can offer. I enjoy looking at your shots and you have a lot of talent, it sounds like it has been a tough Winter but Spring has sprung and things are going to get better[H].


If nature and wildlife is your thing then make it happen. But don't forget that there is a lot of "landscape" around you when doing the wildlife thing and there could be lots of different perspectives to shoot if the wildlife is not playing ball. Think interesting composition and DOF experiments with your scenic landscapes.


Just keep shooting and don't be too hard on yourself.


We are all big fans of ddt.


Steve

They say the difference between a student and a Master is 10,000 mistakes (well, maybe 20,000 mistakes in my case). Keep the photos you despise now and look at them in one year from now. You

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Steve U

We are all big fans of ddt

---

I couldn't have put it better myself. Steve, you have posted enough pictures of empty wine bottles, so we know you follow your own advice, and it seems to work for me too.

Densie, I'm sure everyone here has frustrating days behind the lens. It all adds to your experience and I'm sure you'll improve as a result. Looking back at some of your earliest posts here, the improvement over the last year or so is remarkable. Don't give up, we enjoy your contributions too much.

Denise....I found the 100-400 frustrating also...a tough lens to learn. It has quite a few limitations, e.g. low light situations, focusing in low light, long distance focusing (inherent in long lenses) bokeh, etc. Aside; I found the 7D helped the 100-400 lighting issues exponentially over the 40D.


My suggestions to you is first; don

Thank you so much everyone!!!


Steve, most definitely I could use a glass of wine (or three) right about now!!


Bill - You are so right in regard to alot of what you mentioned! I am trying to reach farther than what the 100-400mm can provide for me and it is extremely frustrating! I did do some manual focusing with the extender and I thought they looked better than what they ended up being on my computer. I also put a CPL on but it took longer to auto focus and by the time it did the bird was good so I took it off.


Sean - I am getting closer and closer to figuring it out every day. I think I

Denise,


I feel your pain. Don

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5253/...058d388f25.jpg


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5211/...f73db41121.jpg


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5293/...dc0738870a.jpg


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5179/...89be1e940c.jpg


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5134/...11345d5e41.jpg


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5292/...0394e6b3e0.jpg


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/...3f7469a3ae.jpg


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5295/...34fca026c6.jpg

This is a few of them ...I still need to edit the others.

Thanks for viewing!

Denise

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Steven23

Please post some, did you shoot raw or jpg? The back of your camera will look better than on the pc some times.
<div style="CLEAR: both"]</div>

---

I always shoot in raw but I guess may main frustration is due to there being so much detail lost because of the distance that 400mm cannot cover. I used the extender but only for alittle while when he was sitting in the tree but only for a few shots.

Denise

Denise, I have never had a chance to shoot ABE, but I can tell it

Hi Denise, thanks for posting the images. I like the down the beak look on that second last bird. But you really should have climbed the tree and set up a flash so you could get rid of that beak shadow. LOL.


And I like the second shot, the shape is nice it just has a bit too much blue sky under him, maybe crop it a bit, resize and put a frame around it and I think it would look really good in the 6x9 format. Is it 6x9? That panorama size and cropping?


I wouldn't give up yet, you are a lot further along this path than most of us.[Y]


Steve

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ddt0725

I always shoot in raw but I guess may main frustration is due to there being so much detail lost because of the distance that 400mm cannot cover. I used the extender but only for alittle while when he was sitting in the tree but only for a few shots.

---

Denise


Buying a new 1D Mark IV and a new 500mm will make you feel better. (500mm because the current 600mm is to heavy, unless you get the new 600mm II) It will help get better pictures as well, I can attest to that, but it won't solve the main problem.


Getting close to wildlife is another skill unto itself and thats the real problem for all of us. Going where the game is, and shooting the easy ones that every one can see those are the soft targets. Spending several days staking out one spot that is prime on the river waiting for the eagle to drop down in front of you, just so you can get one chance at one set of shots, thats a different game. Big lenses give you a better chance, but getting close that is the game.


I will share some frustration with you. A few weeks ago when the lakes here were frozen someone told me about a lake where eagles were. I went out to check it out. The lake was not big at all. Probably didn't cover more than a half square mile. I saw a spot that looked good, but didn't stop. Went over by a dock about two hundred yards away. I hadn't even taken my camera out of the backpack and a male went right over our truck. It landed right in front of where I had originaly thought about setting up on the ice. I hurried to get the camera out, the eagle was jumping up and down on the ice trying to break it. I took a series of pics, of course not checking the settings I just ended up with a black and white mess. Then took a few but it was really to far away. I tried to sneak closer but he would just move further away. So that day no luck, I could see him out on the ice all day but he wouldn't get close.


So I went a few Saturdays later. Staked out a spot almost all day and,,,,,,nothing. I had a lot of fun. To me its catch and release hunting.


On the harder to get wildlife, the fun is in the chase. If the chase gets to where it isn't fun then I will probably quit.





Have Fun





Rick

<span style="font-size: small;"]Denise,


<span style="font-size: small;"]Wait, dont, stop, please don't do it----Nothing is that bad-----<span style="font-size: medium;"]Put the credit card on the ground and step away!!! <span style="font-size: small;"]Seriously, Go ahead and get the big guns, I know I want too for exactly the same reasons you do. I literally had over 10,000 shots of sandhills shot over 3 years and maybe 5 or 6 were really keepers. I spent two weekends going through all of them and sending most to the recycle bin. Many were shot with the same combo you have. So I feel your pain girl. Like others said that 100-400 is a beast and tough to get right, but when it is right----it's a great lens. One suggestion---when at all possible, use a tripod andfocus live view X10---Its amazing what the lens is capable of. I never really appreciated how good that lens was until I shot my H-birds---and that took me all summer just to get a few keepers. I saw the biggest gain in IQ when I went from my aluminum bogan manfrotto tripod to the gitzo. I don't know what others have discovered, but a solid tripod at 400+ mm makes all the difference in the world. Unfortunately, to date, I have yet to get the AF on the 100-400 dialed in, It's close, but never as good as the lens is really capable of. So, take another day off tomorrow, and go chase those eagles----.


<span style="font-size: medium;"]<span style="font-size: small;"]Btw---I thought your shots were pretty good----I certainly would be proud to have them in my collection.


<span style="font-size: medium;"]<span style="font-size: small;"]One last thing----Wanna guess what the UPS man delivered as I type this------My brand new 100L IS---I know, you already have one,but it's always nice to get new toys delivered to your door step. Now go have a glass of wine or two, get on cabella's web page and order you some camo so you can get closer to those dang birds.


<span style="font-size: medium;"]<span style="font-size: small;"]Bob

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bob Williams

<span style="FONT-SIZE: medium"]Put the credit card on the ground and step away!!!

---

LoL! Thanks, Bob! I was actually thinking that if I sold a few lenses and the 7d, I'd have enough to by a new &amp; better camera and get the lens used. As I started to go thru them it went something like this ...well, no maybe not this one, I like this one ....maybe this one ...no, that one is one of my favorites ...maybe I don't need this one ...oh, but I like that one too ...no, not my macro, I love my macro! You get the point!!

As Sean said, I'll figure it out ...eventually! Maybe those hummingbirds will be better for me to aim at in a few months! They will be closer anyway!

In the meantime ...I am waiting for my TS-E 90mm to come in the mail ...another lens I don't need! If I wouldn't have bought it before today ...I never would have after all this happened!

Denise

<div>


Hi Denise,


Sorry, to hear about your struggles today!


As, you may recall I have a 7D and a MK IV. Certainly the MK IV is better, however the 7D is very good too. Although I don't own a 100-400mm f/5.6 I have been impressed with the photos that I have seen posted here, especially for the price. Keep in mind that although a lot of BIF shots are shot at 5.6 or higher, the 5.6 variable aperture is certainly a much slower Auto focusing lens then a constant f/4 lens, which will focus twice as fast.


However,<span style="font-size: 11.6667px;"]I was looking through your EXIF data and I would like to make a couple of suggestions that I have learned from shooting action photography.


<span style="font-size: 11.6667px;"]1) for BIF with a clear blue sky background try using Manual select: AF expansion, or Manual select : Zone AF


(You currently have Single point AF selected, and I think that it is too hard to lock in on a BIF with your current setting.)


2) I also prefer evaluative metering as opposed to spot metering for action shots.


3) I would encourage you to learn how to use the AF-ON, back button for tracking and auto-focusing and then just use the shutter button for capturing the shot.


4) I would turn Focus Search to OFF.


5) I would suggest shooting in High Speed Continuous, as opposed to your current setting of Single. <span>Every time you press the shutter button, you have a chance of jerking the camera, as opposed to holding the shutter button down continuously.


6) I would avoid using the shutter release cable for action photography such as BIF. I would also like to see both hands on the camera, in order to make quicker setting adjustments.


7) I would avoid the 1.4X extender with the 100-400mm f/5.6 variable aperture as stated above, because you lose an f/stop, you lose AF, and you lose 50% of your AF speed which becomes a mute point, since the lens is manual focus only with the 7D.


8) I would recommend a monopod with a monopod head, or hand holding for BIF or action shots as opposed to the tripod.


9) I would lose the polarizing filter for action shots with a slow lens like this one, because you lose an f/stop as well as AF speed and it's difficult to turn the polarizer with the hood on. Some of the faster prime lenses such as the 200-800mm primes have the polarizing filter in the back of the lens, so it's easier to turn with the hood on.


10) I would consider a faster prime lens such as the 400, 500 or 600, before upgrading to a MK IV, plus the 7D has further reach.


<span style="font-size: 11.6667px;"]I hope this helps, if you have any questions about any of the above settings, just let me know.


Kindly, excuse me, if I have made any incorrect assumptions.





Rich
<div></div>
</div>

Rich


All good stuff.


If I might add one, for eagles Highlight Tone Priority "enabled" since they are mainly white black birds.

Thanks Rick!

Thanks for all the suggestions! Looks like I was off on many counts!


I do have a carbon fiber tripod but not a gitzo which I brought with and yep, should have brought my monopod instead! For the first hour, all the bird did was sit in the tree so I used the tripod, 1.4x for some of the shots (which I just started doing to work on MF) and the shutter release but then during BIF I ditched all of those. I did try the polarizer filter for only a handful of shots but soon ditched that too. So for the most part, looks like I have to work on my settings. I got so caught up in the moment, going from sitting to in flight, I forget to change them.


So, for the next time ...


Manual select: AF expansion, or Manual select : Zone AF
evaluative metering
AF-ON, back button for tracking and auto-focusing
Highlight Tone Priority "enabled"
No polarizer
No tripod
Monopod or handheld


Got it!


Thanks,
Denise

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Richard Lane

5) I would suggest shooting in High Speed Continuous, as opposed to your current setting of Single. Every time you press the shutter button, you have a chance of jerking the camera, as opposed to holding the shutter button down continuously.

---

And for more reasons. I once found an article describing how an old 1D's AI Servo worked. Like a 1D mkI or II. I have no idea if the servo modes work exactly the same today, but I certainly get better results in a burst on my Rebel. Since the Rebel has a high shutter lag, I think this description still applies.


While your shutter is half-pressed, it's tracking the movement of an object, attempting to lock onto where it is <span style="color: #ff0000;"]NOW.
As the object moves, it refocuses to track the movement, to where it is <span style="color: #ff0000;"]NOW.
When you hit the shutter, it takes that shot immediately. Due to AF lag, and shutter lag, the object won't be focussed quite right.
As you hold the shutter down, for continous bursts, <span style="color: #ff0000;"]it changes modes after the first shot.
For shots 2+, it is predicting movement, and will focus where the object <span style="color: #ff0000;"]WILL BE when the shutter opens.
If it can't track fast enough or the movement is erratic, <span style="color: #ff0000;"]IT WON'T SHOOT.


The FIRST shot will be slightly OOF due to lag when tracking, and due to not guaranteeing focus lock before it shoots. All the remaining shots in the burst will be focusing via prediction, not tracking. You can still get OOF shots, if the movement changes during the shutter lag time, or you hit the wrong part of the subject, or a nearby branch, but your results should be much better.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ddt0725

<span style="font-size: 11.6667px;"]I got so caught up in the moment, going from sitting to in flight, I forget to change them.


Denise

---

Hi Denise,


<span style="font-size: 11.6667px;"]Don't forget Drive Mode: High Speed Continuous





<span style="font-size: 11.6667px;"]If you set all of these settings as described above, and then you have a bird in a tree, all you have to do is change the AF point selection from; AF Point expansion or Zone AF to..., Single Point AF or Spot AF.


<span style="font-size: 11.6667px;"]This can easily and quickly be done by looking in the VF, without going into the Menu and taking your eyes off your subject, by pressing the AF Point selection button on the rear of the camera and then use the M-fn button to select the type of AF point you desire, and then use either the multi-controller or the quick control dial to select the position of the AF point that you would like.


<span style="font-size: 11.6667px;"]Try it and practice it until it becomes second nature.


<span style="font-size: 11.6667px;"]Good Luck,


<span style="font-size: 11.6667px;"]Rich

I am learning so much just following this thread, excellent suggestions Richard and the other contributors.


Steve

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ddt0725

As Sean said, I'll figure it out ...eventually!
<div style="clear: both;"]</div>

---

Denise,


Remember, A good photographer practices till they get it right. A professional photographer practices till they can not get it wrong.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ddt0725

When I started photography a year ago,

---

Keep practicing. The frustration is just beginning[:D] LOL


Mark

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Richard Lane

If you set all of these settings as described above, and then you have a bird in a tree, all you have to do is change the AF point selection from; AF Point expansion or Zone AF to..., Single Point AF or Spot AF.

---

Rich


With the 1D IV I can use AI servo mode and get really good focus on sitting subjects. That wasn't always the case on the 7D or the 5D II. Single Shot, single point was always more accurate than AI mode. So for me I would switch from AI to single shot if I thought I had a subject sitting for a while. Then switch back to AI servo if I were thinking it was getting ready to bolt.


Or maybe I am miss understanding your wording of single point or spot af and that is what you were saying.


Rick

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HDNitehawk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Richard Lane

If you set all of these settings as described above, and then you have a bird in a tree, all you have to do is change the AF point selection from; AF Point expansion or Zone AF to..., Single Point AF or Spot AF.

---

Rich


With the 1D IV I can use AI servo mode and get really good focus on sitting subjects. That wasn't always the case on the 7D or the 5D II. Single Shot, single point was always more accurate than AI mode. So for me I would switch from AI to single shot if I thought I had a subject sitting for a while. Then switch back to AI servo if I were thinking it was getting ready to bolt.


Or maybe I am miss understanding your wording of single point or spot af and that is what you were saying.


Rick


<span style="font-size: 11.6667px;"]

---

<span style="font-size: 11.6667px;"]Hi Rick,


<span style="font-size: 11.6667px;"]I'll try to clarify. The reason that I had suggested to switch to Single AF Point or the smaller Spot AF was so that the camera would not focus on a branch, which the AF expansion point or the Zone AF would do (if the bird was in a tree). It had nothing to do with AI Servo vs. One Shot.


When I use the AF-On back button for focusing and tracking I can effectively go from AI servo mode to One Shot by lettting go of the AF-On back button when focus is locked, and then just compose and press the shutter button for capture only, this affectively behaves as ONE SHOT since tracking has been suspended when you take your thumb off of the AF-On back button.


Are you using the AF-On for tracking? Because another advantage is that it is much easier to track by fully pressing the AF-ON button, then it is to track with a half-press shutter button.





Rich


<span style="font-size: 11.6667px;"]

Hi all,


Denise i was going to come on here and ask a lot of the same questions u did and after my saturday shooting the eagles arround here i to was a little bummed. I also took a lot of picts and looking at them on the cam thought i hade a lot of great shots only to come home and put them on my comp and was not impressed.Ive been useing the 100-400 l for about a year and at times i love it and at times im not sure whats going on.I bought it for shooting airshows mostly and wildlife like the eagles and hawks arround here.I know some people on here have said u need to watch for soft copys of this lens and i think mabe thats what i have but then i start to think its the cam to.Ive tryed a lot of different thing to see if its me or the cam or lens and im not sure but at least we r not wasteing film when the picts do not come out great lol.Ive been thinking about upgradeing to a new 7d from my 50d but im not sure if its a big enough upgrade so im waiting to see what comes out next.oh well keep the faith as they say lol 1 day we will figure it all out.Here r a few of my shots from saturday a few of a female eagle shotfrom about 100yrds from the tree and it was about 75ft up and the hawk was just flying rite over my truck about 100ft away......all with 50d and 100-400 l at 400mm eagle shots r f7.1 1/800 iso 100 hawk shots r f7.1 1/640 iso 160.......





thanks Rod


http://community.the-digital-picture...arge_2900_.JPGhttp://community.the-digital-picture...arge_2900_.JPGhttp://community.the-digital-picture...arge_2900_.JPG[img]/resized-image.ashx/__size/480x320/__key/CommunityServer-Components-UserFiles/00-00-00-46-19/2_2D00_27_2D00_11-_2800_50_2900_-_2800_Large_2900_.JPG[/img]http://community.the-digital-picture...arge_2900_.JPGhttp://community.the-digital-picture...arge_2900_.JPG

Hi Denise,


I am an engineer, so I naturally think in bullet points....weird, I know:

• I like your pictures, in particular, the last one.
• Thanks for posting. Seriously. This is something l love about this forum. Out of your post, I now have several new ideas to try. Thanks[:D]
• My one comment to Rich's list: my first time outthis winterI used evaluative metering. For me, it exposed the background (usually sky or clouds) better than the ABE (and often, we are trying to expose the belly side of the eagle). From my first trip, I thought most of the ABEs were under exposed by 1.5-2 stops. I've since switched to manual mode and use my first few pictures to dial in exposure on the ABEs and then just leave (or make minor adjustments)the settings in manual. Now, most of my pics do need to be adjusted for exposure, but usually less than 1/3 of a stop one direction or another, but I often am blowing out the background. Please let me know if anyone sees a problem with this method.
• To keep with others hunting analogy, I am beginning to view a great picture of an ABEs as an ellusive trophy. Some game makes it easy....some, very difficult.

Banman1....Others here are much better at evaluating photosthan I am,but I am actually wondering if these were taken mid-day and this is a "harsh light" issue.


Brant

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kayaker72

• My one comment to Rich's list: my first time outthis winterI used evaluative metering. For me, it exposed the background (usually sky or clouds) better than the ABE (and often, we are trying to expose the belly side of the eagle). From my first trip, I thought most of the ABEs were under exposed by 1.5-2 stops. I've since switched to manual mode and use my first few pictures to dial in exposure on the ABEs and then just leave (or make minor adjustments)the settings in manual. Now, most of my pics do need to be adjusted for exposure, but usually less than 1/3 of a stop one direction or another, but I often am blowing out the background. Please let me know if anyone sees a problem with this method
• Brant

---

Regarding spot metering, I feel that when you have a short focal length and you are shooting action photography or BIF that are moving quickly and in an undetermined manner, it is more difficult to use spot metering than evaluative metering, since you have a good chance of missing your target. I do think that a white sky with clouds can wreak havoc on metering and in that case I would add exposure compensation or EV to the equation. I think that for stationary subjects that have a busy background or are backlit, spot metering would be the better choice.


If the sky background is blue, and the bird is black and white, the evaluaitive metering should do a pretty good job, of splitting the difference, since a light blue sky (is similar to an 18% gray card) is somewhat in between the black and white bird. As suggested above this also works better with longer focal lengths where the bird fills more of the frame.


Using manual mode to dial in exposure is very good including; aperture, shutter speed and ISO.


Keep in mind that there are many ways to get a good exposure, and you should use what works best for you in any given situation. I'm also continuing to learn all of the time as well.





Rich

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Richard Lane

Are you using the AF-On for tracking? Because another advantage is that it is much easier to track by fully pressing the AF-ON button, then it is to track with a half-press shutter button.

---

No, I will give it a try though. Especialy if I use the 7D or 5D since they are lacking when it comes to AI servo. The 1D IV I don't think it will matter either way, I have been getting sharp shots out of AI servo both moving and sitting.


Thanks


Rick

Rod;


First let me say all of your pix are of hawks....red tail, I believe. Adult female and male American Bald Eagles (ABE) look exactly the same w/the female being slightly larger. Juveniles are mostly dark w/out the white w/brown bars (note perched shot and overhead shot...same chest markings) on the chest. Brant and I have posted plenty of juvie examples.


Concerning the exif you posted; I become a little nervous when I

Hi Denise...


I came across a site whereby a 7D user had specified his parameters that he had used and seem to work flawlessly. I do not own said camera but maybe you can give them a go:


CFn I 1=0


CFn I 2=0


CFn II all disabled


CFn III 1=Slow


CFn III 2=0 (priority is put on focusing)


CFn III 3=1


CFn III 4=0 (unless light is bad then I switch to 1)


CFn III 6=Most of the time is single point for BIF i switch to single with expanded


CFn III 7=1


CFn III the rest set to what prefrences you want


CFn IV 1=default


CFn IV 2=default


the rest set to default


Then there is this linkthat discusses AI Servo and how to make the most of it for birds in flight. Actually I think I got this lnk from a member of this forum.


Good luck and happy *hunting*

elmo....thanks for posting this link. I

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Richard Lane

When I use the AF-On back button for focusing and tracking I can effectively go from AI servo mode to One Shot by lettting go of the AF-On back button when focus is locked, and then just compose and press the shutter button for capture only, this affectively behaves as ONE SHOT since tracking has been suspended when you take your thumb off of the AF-On back button.


Are you using the AF-On for tracking? Because another advantage is that it is much easier to track by fully pressing the AF-ON button, then it is to track with a half-press shutter button.

---

Rich


Which setting would allow you to do this on the 5D II. I have tried it and in AI servo mode if you release the AF-ON and recompose and once you touch the shutter button it takes over and AF hunts the new target, even if your very quick.


Which it seems like some of the functions offered in the 7D and 5D aren't the same in the 1D Mark IV. For instance the AF stop button on the 300mm we both have, can be programed in the 1D IV to go to spot focus which shrinks the focus point using the AF stop button on the camera. That same button can be programed to switch from AI to One Shot mode. However on the 7D you can do spot focus but its a setting you have to change in CFn III 6, I guess I need to try this and see how it actualy works, if you can change from spot to full point easily. But still, that gives the 7D the option to do both of those functions. But with the 1D IV you could only choose one, unless there is a setting in the 1D IV I haven't found yet that would make the point to spot focus and keep it that way until changed or assign it to a diffrent button. The spot focus on the telephoto's on the 1D IV seems like an almost have to have button, it seems to me that the AF area is much larger on the 1D IV single point than it is on the 5D and 7D. I have been using it alotto focus on bird in the bush.


Rick

Hey Rick,


In order to get the benefit of the AF-on button you are correct in that you have to shut off the AF feature that is linked to the shutter button.


I don't have a 5D, but I can explain how it is done on the 7D and the MK IV.





On the 7D; go into the Custom Function Menu:


C.Fn IV: Operation/Others


press set, now you're in C.Fn IV: 1


then press set, the first icon is the shutter button half-press, now press set again, then turn the control dial and deselect AF, and select metering start which is the middle choice for Shutter butt. half-press.


You now must use the AF-ON button for focusing and just prior to pressing the shutter button, you will get your correct meter reading.


The AF-ON Custom Control Menu Button should be set to the first choice (AF) which is Metering and AF start





On the MKIV: It's C.Fn IV-1-2


OR


C: Fn IV Operation/ Others (Press set)


You will see,


C: Fn IV Operation Others


Shutter button/ AF-On Button


you will see choices 0-5, press set again


use the control dial and select choice


2: Metering start/ Meter + AF start





I hope that helps,


Rich

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Richard Lane

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4) I would turn Focus Search to OFF.
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Hello.


I have a question about this particular thing.


Why?


I mean, why is it good for, or why is it bad for some other things


I own 50d with 70-200 f4 and sometimes i have problems with AI SERVO tracking the subject in the move.


Thanks, Anri

Wow! This thread has taken on a life of its own! I want to thank EVERYONE for contributing and sharing their knowledge and shooting techniques!!


I have lots to read here &amp; learn from you!! You guys are awesome!


Denise

Hi Anri,


Here is an example. If you are using a supertelephoto lens, then your lens can become very far out of focus, by trying to focus search on something that it does not see. If this happens then your lens may not recover in time, to get the shot.


There is a custom setting known as Lens drive when AF is impossible, this custom function may be found in C.Fn III-4 on the 7D. I'm not sure where it is on the 50d.


Lets say that you have "focus search on", and you are tracking a bird in flight with a blue sky and then you temporarily lose the bird in the frame, now the lens has nothing to focus on, therefore it will continue to search for something to focus on, and in doing so it may become further and further out of the focusing range that you were working in, especially with a long telephoto lens. Now, if you re-acquire your focusing target (lets say the bird for instance) the lens will now have to focus search a second time to re-lock on the target. So, it can take a while to focus search (looking for the subject) out of the target range initially, and then focus search again to reacquire the target.


Now, lets say that you have "focus search off" and you temporarily lose the bird in your frame, now the lens will not get way out of focusing range while trying to focus search on what it doesn't see (because focus search is off), so now when you re-acquire the bird in the frame, the lens shouldn't be that far out of focus, and therefore it should re-focus on the target faster, because it wasn't hunting and it didn't drift that far of the subject distance range. So, in theory it will re-acquire the target faster.


The other way the photographer can re-acquire the subject faster with "focus search turned off " (thereby limiting the out of focus range) is by using the manual focus ring to re-establish the subject, without the lens having to focus search and move all of that glass backwards and then forwards with the AF motor, which is not as fast as the manual focus ring.


In sports, we can also use the metal prefocus-ring on the super-telephoto lenses, to quickly reacquire our target distance, without focus search doing it's own thing.





Rich

Very useful information here, thanks Rich and elmo!