Advice on our next "big" vacation

I'm planning a head to our next "big" vacation and have several places in mind. I live in Maine and have mostly traveled within the New England area with the exception of Hawaii (Kauai and Big Island) that we spent a wonderful 2 weeks last year.

We don't be going any where big this year, possibly next year or the year after. Here's a list of places that we'd like to visit in our lifetime:

• Alaska
  
  • We want to see Grizzlies at the water fishing
  • Grizzlies in the big open fields with mountainous backgrounds
  • Bald Eagles in large groups
  • Wildlife in general
• Washington State
  
  • Hike many of is mountains in search of bodies of water up top (Hidden Lake)
  • Septoe Park
• Oregon
  
  • Coastlines
• Hawaii
  
  • Mauai and back to either Kauai or Big Island
• Yellowstone National Park
  
  • We want to see any wildlife available there as well as scenic landscapes

The two areas that I'm not sure about is Alaska and Yellowstone. Alaska is huge, and we would need to stick to a certain area due to time (1-2 weeks). I'm guessing we would stay in hotels and drive to our destinations. I think we'd need to hire someone such as a guide or someone with a gun for certain areas for protection against wildlife.

As for Yellowstone, I'm at a loss of what we would need to do as far as sleeping goes. Would we stay at a nearby hotel and then just drive to our locations? Can you drive throughout the park or is it all hiking? I believe that we can tent out, but I am not too keen on that due to the risks of Grizzlies attacking.

As you can gather from my questions I am very early in the research, any input would be helpful. Thank you.

I've traveled in Alaska by car (i.e., not on a cruise). It's an interesting place, and you have to manage your expectations.

1. It is, as you say, huge. The car can only take you so many places. To see the best wildlife, you have to be willing to get on (and pay for) little puddle jumper planes. That being said, it's Alaska and you can see a moose in the middle of Anchorage, which could make for a great contrast in a photograph.

2. Bears are really cool. But watch this: http://abcnews.go.com/GMA/video/caught-tape-grizzly-bear-charges-photographers-15809722

3. The weather is unpredictable, and you have to be patient. I was there for 10 days, and out of those days only 2 were sunny. The other days were so overcast that you couldn't appreciate (or photograph!) any of the grand vistas. And plenty of rain, which you just have to fight through. My wife and I sea kayaked in a steady, light rain for 4 hours rather than cancel the outing. I needed to see those puffins in the water. My understanding is that many summer trips suffer the same fate. But those 2 sunny days were very special.

4. Not sure what kind of traveler you are, but it's a pretty utilitarian, yet expensive, place. And the restaurant food was very disappointing. By far, my best meal was the grilled halibut I prepared myself the evening after pulling that very halibut out of the ocean.

I've also vacationed in Oregon, which I loved. Still lots of outdoorsy activities and great photography, certainly less wildlife opportunities, but great food and drink. More my style....

Good luck!
Brian

Hi Photog82

I think any of the trips would be great.

I went to Yellowstone the last two years. I have a friend who owns a cabin in West Yellowstone that backs up against the Madison River and the park. It is great. As far as sleeping arrangements you could stay at the lodges at Mammoth, Old Faithfull, the Falls or at Yellowstone Lake. I would think you would need reservations well in advance. There are many public camp areas and those are first come first serve I believe, not completely sure because I never had the need. Back country camping requires a permit, and you have to show up in person to get it. You couldn’t count on the back country camping as you’re way of camping every night as you may not be able to get an area quick enough.

There are also cabins and rooms in West Yellowstone and Gardiner.

There are Grizzlies in certain areas if you get off the roads and trek in the back country in certain areas. Talk to the rangers, they will tell you where the danger is. I would suggest carrying bear spray. For the most part there is little danger, but if you have no backwoods or outdoors experience there is always danger.

You can drive around the park, which is what most people do. The park is huge and you could spend all day driving and not cover it.

For a person’s first trip I would recommend planning for several days watching water boil. The geyser basins are huge, beautiful and can easily take up most of your vacation.

To me, Yellowstone while beautiful, it is somewhat pre processed for your enjoyment as a park. It is not the wilderness one might expect. My brother and I were even speculating that much of the wildlife you see is staged. For instance, we were told a day in advance exactly where we would see a grizzly bear and cubs by a ranger. The next day at the exact location a wolf pack had supposedly killed a buffalo and there was a bear and her cubs feeding on it. The eagles are fun to watch, and there are two nests. They are by the entrances on the east and west side of the park. I found it curious that the nation’s national park would have the national symbol nesting by its gates on each side. I think if you want to see the wild part of the park you will need to backpack a bit.

Good Luck

Risk of bear attack is really quite small provided you follow the sensible guidelines for food and garbage storage. People have been camping in Yellowstone and Alaska for many years with a relatively small number of incidents, many of which might have been prevented by not keeping food, or other strong smelling items like toothpaste that arouse bear curiousity, in the tent.

Only destination on your list I've not been to is Hawaii. Can't imagine it being possible to make a bad choice from your list. All of the destinations are ones I keep returning to over and over. While there are roads going through Yellowstone and Alaska you will find that there is far more to be seen by hiking, canoeing, rafting, dog sledding, small boat coastal cruising for coastal states and BC as well, and any other means of getting around that you can think of. Assuming it is to be a family type of adventure, I would advise finding something that everyone can be involved with as there is nothing worse than getting a couple of days into a week long hike and finding out that someone isn't too happy with it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jrw

Risk of bear attack is really quite small provided you follow the sensible guidelines for food and garbage storage. People have been camping in Yellowstone and Alaska for many years with a relatively small number of incidents, many of which might have been prevented by not keeping food, or other strong smelling items like toothpaste that arouse bear curiousity, in the tent.

---

Two died last year in Yellowstone. The first startled a sow with cubs. The second may have been the same sow and some say it was predation. Neither had bear spray with them.
One died the year before just outside the park. I believe it was a startled grizzly as well.

3.6 million visitors in 2010, I think your odds are very low.

Photog82,

I've been to all the places you listed and now live in nearby New Hampshire. All are great choices. You may also want to add Costa Rica (still on a high from the trip), California Parks (Yosemite, Kings Canyon, etc) or Southern Utah (amazing with Bryce/Zion/Arches NP, etc).

A few comments:
Alaska....it is a different land than anything I've ever seen before. I saw some wildlife, but not a ton. But the trip was still amazing just because it is so different. Alaska can be whatever you make of it and I have a feeling all would be good. My trip was 2 days on the water to fish for King Salmon (caught a 58 lb salmon), 1 day at Seward with boat tours of the glacier, looking for whales, a day at Anchorage, a day in Homer, and a day trip from Anchorage to Denali NP. Great trip. If I had to do it over, I'd add a day or two in Denali NP and do the guided tours/hikes arranged by the NP. Alaska is too big to do in one shot...don't try. The other trip that I've planned but haven't done yet is using regional ferries based out of Juneau to go out to the islands and up to Skagway, etc.

Washington State: I think it is great that you consider this a destination. A lot of people don't give Washington state it's due. I believe you mean Steptoe Butte State park and have probably seen amazing photos of the Palouse. If so, just realize it is on the opposite side of the state from Seattle. Among the great things to see in or near Washington state: San Juan Islands, Rainier/Olympic/North Cascades NPs, Seattle, Victoria BC, Vancouver BC, Mt. St. Helens, Columbia River Gorge, Lake Chelan, Dry Falls, wine tasting in Walla Walla and the Palouse. A friend that is a Professor at a local college takes a bunch of students out to do a 2 week Washington/Oregon geology field trip every year. By the way, I grew up in the Palouse (in Idaho).

Oregon: Coastlines are beautiful, but one of my coldest vacations ever was the Oregon Coast in August. Astoria, Cannon Beach, Newport, the dunes...all very good. But Oregon also has the Three Sisters/Bend region, the waterfalls in the Columbia River Gorge, John Day Fossil National Monument, Crater Lake NP and the Willamette area.

Hawaii: Maui is a great destination. Just take a look at Kaanapali beach, Road to Hana, and Mt. Haleakala NP. But, as you've been to Hawaii, you know...it's the air and the attitude. :)

Yellowstone NP: Rick covered it. Staying there is very easy. You have cabins, campgrounds or hotels within the park and just outside. I'd also look at Tetons NP just to the south. Yellowstone is one of my favorite places. But, Rick is right in that it is "developed" and can be crowded. But where else can you see amazing waterfalls, mountains, wildlife (deer/elk/buffalo are so plentiful it almost gets boring...ok, not reallY), geysers, mud pots, high mountain lakes all very accessible in one spot? On the attack bit...I have seen people do some of the dumbest things to get close to animals in Yellowstone. Keep a safe distance, if camping, lock up your food and buy a big lens :).

Hopefully that helps a little. Any of those would be a great trip. Good luck planning.
Brant

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by thekingb

2. Bears are really cool. But watch this: http://abcnews.go.com/GMA/video/caught-tape-grizzly-bear-charges-photographers-15809722

Brian

---

Oh man, that's too close. Don't want to end like http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timothy_Treadwell

Arnt

I have done "Eastern Washington" Seattle and Mt. Rainier. Had the family in tow so not too much opportunity to hike around and do photo.

With the exception of Hawaii the locations I would qualify most of your suggestions as "Northern Temperate." Big green trees, stunning vistas, with local unique features.

Wildlife in Hawaii is certainly different from all other locations. Suggestion.... Rule in or out "Tropical" that would narrow the list either by a little or a lot.

RE: Grizzlies - just note the signs of their presence and activity.... scat (feces) containing baseball hats, chewed cans of bear spray...


By the way - I can be a part time sherpa (paid of course) if you need one.

Long running joke among park rangers. How do you identify bear scat? Look for the bear bells.

Seriously though, if you don't startle a bear or get too close to cubs there is little risk from them. They have been hunted enough to know to stay away. Make noise while hiking through bear country to avoid startling them.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jrw

They have been hunted enough to know to stay away. Make noise while hiking through bear country to avoid startling them.

---

One of the real dangers of Yellowstone is that your statement is not true. The animals haven't been hunted and most have very little fear of humans. The one exception are the wolves, who get shot by the rangers with rubber bullets when they get close to the road.

Yes and no. Younger bears, especially males, do cover a lot of territory. Radio collar studies in many large parks, both sides of the border, show that bears do move in and out of the parks covering 60+ miles a day when they are on the move. Larger specimens don't move around as much, presumably because they are able to defend their territory which keeps the smaller ones on the move until they reach full maturity and can then displace the aging residents.

In the more remote areas of the parks the bears are not accustomed to feeding on trash, and have not lost the fear of humans. Even the dump bears, which have no fear anymore, are more interested in doing their own thing and not attacking humans. Considering that raiding the garbage bins in campgrounds is a nightly activity, dump bear watching is/was a nightly attraction in some, they are far more interested in the trash than the campers in their tents or a lot of people would have died by now.

Have had some encounters in very remote areas where humans are a novelty apparently and there is no fear. One time, we came over a small ridge and looking behind we saw a confused looking bear coming downwind towards us. It was cocking its head, pricking up its ears as though it were trying to figure out what we were. We stood and watched it. It came to about 10 yards, circled around us a few times, lots of sniffing and then ambled off.

While felling trees on a property about an hour north of home, I caught whiff of another coming downwind to check me out. I stopped working and started watching for it. About 5 minutes later, the head of a small black bear popped out of some dogwoods. It looked at me for a while and then vanished back into the swamp I was on the edge of. Bears are a novelty in the area, but that was during the time that the spring bear hunt was banned, populations exploded and they moved south. It hung around for two years.

While I have had encounters with black, grizzly and polar bears and recognize that they are an intelligent quizzical species I do have a great respect for their ability to shred me into pieces if they so desire. I make my presence known to avoid surprising them and I keep a very clean campsite when in their territory so as not to attract them.

If the truth be known, I am more concerned about my safety with bull moose during the rutting season than bears.


EDIT: Should exclude white bear from moose comparison. They are more carnivorous than omnivorous. inuit sleep with rifle beside them for a reason when travelling. Only bear species that none of the natives who share the land with them refer to as 'brother bear'. Yet, have woken in the morning and found tracks going straight through campsites. Have come across them feeding on kills with no aggression towards me (distances of 100+ yards thankfully). Definitely wouldn't want to be up close and personal with one.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HDNitehawk

The animals haven't been hunted and most have very little fear of humans. .

---

This is true but Rangers in the parks do intensive bear management work to try and keep bears from becoming to comfortable around people. (Im actually going to be interviewing a job, doing just that) While many in parks are still used to people and not fearful, they also will not attack you unless (like jrw said) startle them or get close to their cubs. Generally speaking if you are mindful that they are around, you have very little to worry about.

I also agree with the Bull moose comment. They have been known to charge trains and chase boats across lakes during rut.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kayaker72

Oregon: Coastlines are beautiful, but one of my coldest vacations ever was the Oregon Coast in August.

---

I love this. It's funny because it's true. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nvitalephotography

This is true but Rangers in the parks do intensive bear management work to try and keep bears from becoming to comfortable around people. (Im actually going to be interviewing a job, doing just that) While many in parks are still used to people and not fearful, they also will not attack you unless (like jrw said) startle them or get close to their cubs. Generally speaking if you are mindful that they are around, you have very little to worry about.

I also agree with the Bull moose comment. They have been known to charge trains and chase boats across lakes during rut.

---

I would believe the Rangers do that with the bears. We came across a bear next to the road that was fishing in a small body of water. He was about 50 yards off the road and on all sides the water was surrounded by trees. Within 10 minutes traffic was backed up for a mile in either direction. After about ten minutes the bear suddenly bolted from the water and climbed a tree, just like something was after him. He then jumped from the tree and ran away. The action was out of character for what he was doing and I thought at the time that possibly a ranger had worked his way around and possibly shot him or startled him some how.

The wolves we saw last year were always on a dead run whenever they got close to the road. I have heard from others the rangers do shoot the wolves with rubber bullets to keep them scared of humans.

But it just isn't bear and wolves that are dangerous. Elk have little or no fear of any one, in Mammoth you can get just a few feet from one.

I took a run down to the Tetons and came across a very large Bull Moose close to Jackson Lake Lodge. There were 100 or so people with one ranger watching it eat, within 20 yards. The rangers do more people control than they do animal.

Point is the wildlife in these two big parks, really aren't what I would consider wild. The real danger to people is there own ignorance, because they can get that close to these big animals they think it is ok to get even closer.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jrw

If the truth be known, I am more concerned about my safety with bull moose during the rutting season than bears.

---

Agree, and it doesn't even take a moose. Deer can hurt a human pretty bad already.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kayaker72

Photog82,

I've been to all the places you listed and now live in nearby New Hampshire. All are great choices. You may also want to add Costa Rica (still on a high from the trip), California Parks (Yosemite, Kings Canyon, etc) or Southern Utah (amazing with Bryce/Zion/Arches NP, etc).

A few comments:
Alaska....it is a different land than anything I've ever seen before. I saw some wildlife, but not a ton. But the trip was still amazing just because it is so different. Alaska can be whatever you make of it and I have a feeling all would be good. My trip was 2 days on the water to fish for King Salmon (caught a 58 lb salmon), 1 day at Seward with boat tours of the glacier, looking for whales, a day at Anchorage, a day in Homer, and a day trip from Anchorage to Denali NP. Great trip. If I had to do it over, I'd add a day or two in Denali NP and do the guided tours/hikes arranged by the NP. Alaska is too big to do in one shot...don't try. The other trip that I've planned but haven't done yet is using regional ferries based out of Juneau to go out to the islands and up to Skagway, etc.

Washington State: I think it is great that you consider this a destination. A lot of people don't give Washington state it's due. I believe you mean Steptoe Butte State park and have probably seen amazing photos of the Palouse. If so, just realize it is on the opposite side of the state from Seattle. Among the great things to see in or near Washington state: San Juan Islands, Rainier/Olympic/North Cascades NPs, Seattle, Victoria BC, Vancouver BC, Mt. St. Helens, Columbia River Gorge, Lake Chelan, Dry Falls, wine tasting in Walla Walla and the Palouse. A friend that is a Professor at a local college takes a bunch of students out to do a 2 week Washington/Oregon geology field trip every year. By the way, I grew up in the Palouse (in Idaho).

Oregon: Coastlines are beautiful, but one of my coldest vacations ever was the Oregon Coast in August. Astoria, Cannon Beach, Newport, the dunes...all very good. But Oregon also has the Three Sisters/Bend region, the waterfalls in the Columbia River Gorge, John Day Fossil National Monument, Crater Lake NP and the Willamette area.

Hawaii: Maui is a great destination. Just take a look at Kaanapali beach, Road to Hana, and Mt. Haleakala NP. But, as you've been to Hawaii, you know...it's the air and the attitude. :)

Yellowstone NP: Rick covered it. Staying there is very easy. You have cabins, campgrounds or hotels within the park and just outside. I'd also look at Tetons NP just to the south. Yellowstone is one of my favorite places. But, Rick is right in that it is "developed" and can be crowded. But where else can you see amazing waterfalls, mountains, wildlife (deer/elk/buffalo are so plentiful it almost gets boring...ok, not reallY), geysers, mud pots, high mountain lakes all very accessible in one spot? On the attack bit...I have seen people do some of the dumbest things to get close to animals in Yellowstone. Keep a safe distance, if camping, lock up your food and buy a big lens :).

Hopefully that helps a little. Any of those would be a great trip. Good luck planning.
Brant

---

Way to paint a great picture here Brant, I'm not going, but you have made me want to visit all those locations.