[SOLD]: 10-22mm & 30mm APS-C lenses

UPDATE: The Genus filter and 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 are both sold. The Sigma lens will be listed on Ebay.

All items are in very good condition. Payment will be through Paypal. Quoted shipping is for continental US only. Reasons for selling:

10-22mm : I'd like to pick up a full-frame UWA instead
30mm : I receive almost the identical focal length / aperture using my 50mm f/1.4 on FF
Genus : I recently purchased a Singh-Ray Vari-N-Duo

So, here we go:

Canon 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5
$620 + $15 shipping = $635
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-I...-4.5_small.jpg
I purchased the 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 refurbished from Adorama. It's worked very well for me. It's had a filter on it since I bought it (removed for the product shot). Lens does not come with filter, though. Lens comes with caps and white box. Click here for example shots taken with lens.


Sigma 30mm f/1.4
$390 + $15 shipping = $405
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K... f14_small.jpg
I purchased this lens new from B&H Photo. This is a great field of view for a crop sensor camera (mimics 50mm FF, basically). It's had a lens filter on it ever since I received it (removed for product shot). Lens filter does not come with purchase, though. Lens comes with caps and retail box. Click here for example shots taken with this lens.


[SOLD] 77mm Genus ND Fader Filter
$115 + $10 shipping = $125
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...77mm_small.jpg
I purchased this filter new from B&H Photo. I'm almost reluctant to let this go because of its usefulness on wider angle lenses. However, it's economically unreasonable for me to keep it for the few times it would prove more useful than the Singh-Ray. The Genus does impart a rather strong color cast (easily corrected in post), and does degrade image quality a bit. However, I always found its usefulness outweighed the slight degredation in IQ. Filter comes with plastic case, cleaning cloth, and thumb screws (not pictured). Click here for example shots taken using this filter.

You are selling your Sigma 30mm, I am shocked that you would part with it! I would snatch it up in a heartbeat if I had the $! Also, I have been trying to sell my 72mm Genus to get a 77mm Genus but now you have me wanting a Singh-Ray!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ddt0725

You are selling your Sigma 30mm, I am shocked that you would part with it! I would snatch it up in a heartbeat if I had the $! Also, I have been trying to sell my 72mm Genus to get a 77mm Genus but now you have me wanting a Singh-Ray!

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Yeah, I really do like the Sigma. But I don't need two identical focal lengths across crop and full-frame (50mm FF = roughly 30mm crop). It makes more sense to sell it and get a wider (or more general purpose) FF lens and 50mm is as wide as I have at the moment.

Truth is, I like the Genus. It isn't perfect, but for the money it isn't bad. However, trying to stack it on top of a CPL just isn't fun to work with. The compact, convenient package of the Singh-Ray won me over.

I've been looking at ND filters for several months.

I started a discussion about ND filters in general several weeks ago,

I have been thinking about graduated ND filters for outdoors especially the 4x6 and use hand held so it can be adjusted and tilted.

Im considering a 10 stop B+W (black glass) for special effects.

And I strongly considered the Singh Ray or Genus variable for the versatility.

Seems I was steered away from these and have not thought about them again until I saw your post.

I experimented with the idea of putting a linear polarizer on top of a circular polarizer and was told by someone reputable here (neuroanatomist) that this was actually what the Singh Ray was.

Can you post a photo of what a unprocessed shot with the Genus filter looks like before photoshop. Looks like it is sold but I really need some help to make the decision on variable ND vs multiple NDs

Thanks

Click here to download a RAW file from one of my more recent shoots taken with the Genus.

In fact, let me know if that works. If not, I can get it to you in another way.

Thanks
It worked,
actually I checked out your flicker photos before I made the request and to tell you the truth if the flicker shot is adjusted it looks identical to me as the RAW.

I like how you can really use shallow depth of field in daylight situations when you add the ND filter.

So help me here Sean, buy the Singh Ray variable or NOT.

strobist advice

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2010/06/using-nd-filters-to-kill-depth-of-field.html

CONS

http://www.redbubble.com/people/pete...ensity-filters


Is it the best way to go?
is it really worth $390

To be honest, the pictures I post usually require more post processing than that particular image. In fact, when looking at the RAW file, I was suprised to see how little I had changed (that's not always the case). :-)

What specific situations do envision needing the filter for?

Besides the expected ability to increase time of exposure to get cloud or water movement.
I would like to open the aperature to get daytime decreased depth of field for wedding poses. (this is my MAIN purpose)
And to take longer exposures on city scapes eleminate some human traffic.

Is the Singh Ray worth the extra, why did you change?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iND

Besides the expected ability to increase time of exposure to get cloud or water movement.
I would like to open the aperature to get daytime decreased depth of field for wedding poses. (this is my MAIN purpose)
And to take longer exposures on city scapes eleminate some human traffic.

Is the Singh Ray worth the extra, why did you change?

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The whole reason I purchased the Singh-Ray was because I wanted a variable ND filter coupled with a CPL. Otherwise, I would have kept the Genus filter. As you can see by the pictures in the link (and the RAW file), it certainly worked well enough for portraiture. I tried stacking the Genus on top of a CPL, but it was all too unwieldy to work well during a portrait session.

If I hadn't found a good deal on a standard mount, I would have opted for the thin mount. The Singh-Ray Vari-N-Duo Standard vignettes pretty heavily at wider focal lengths. Right now I'm actually thinking very hard about my next one or two lens purchases based solely on the vignetting of the Singh-Ray filter. I know it will vignette on a 24mm lens (zoom or prime) if the lens has a 77mm filter size. However, I'm really curious to find out whether or not the vignetting is present (or at least lessened greatly) if I mount the filter to a Canon 24mm f/2.8 using a step-up ring. If it works, that would allow me the use of a relatively wide-angle lens where the Singh-Ray would still be an usable tool.

I'd probably buy the 30mm Sigma from you if I had micro adjustment for the focus. You've taken very nice images with it.

Dave

I like the idea of a variable ND filter. However, a couple of things have prevented me from buying one. The first is the IQ issue Sean mentions with the less expensive Genus, leaving the Singh-Ray as the only convenient option - or so I thought.

Note that I'm ruling out the Schneider version, which is a pair of rectangular filters in a rotating holder - incidentally, iND, that directly answers your question about stacking polarizers to mane a variable ND. The product description states: "The kit is comprised of a screw-on 77mm True-Match Circular Polarizer (Non-Rotating) that mounts to the front of the camera lens, a 4x4 True-Match Linear Polarizer that slides into the Schneider 4" rotating Filter Holder with the 77mm W/A adapter ring." As it turns out, searching for that product description led me to the discovery that Schneider now makes a threaded variable ND filter, too, claiming 1.33 to 11 stops. It's non-vignetting since it uses their extra wide design (the glass is ~95mm while the threads are 77mm). I just wish there was an 82mm version...

Anyway, the other reason is that 'banding' that's mentioned in the Cons link form iND - the blog author doesn't state this, but I expect that he saw that using a wide angle lens. Since a vari ND is crossed polarizers, it's subject to the same uneven polarization you get with a CPL on an ultrawide (<24mm FF) lens, which manifests as a Maltese cross effect that is worse at darker settings. My primary use for the dark end would be on wider lenses.

I may still try a variable ND at some point, but for now I'm happy with the standard ND filters - I use a 3-stop filter for shooting fast primes wide open in daylight, and for mild blur on moving water, and a 10-stop filter for extreme blur on moving water and for blurring people out of architectural shots.

Thanks Everyone for this discussion.
It has been exceptionally helpful.

If I don't have any takers on the lenses soon, I'll be posting them on Ebay--just a head's up.

I have a 30mm Sigma and I love it, especially for low light indoor shots.