Sometimes the colours is flatten. Which tecnique is more efficient to brilliant colours?
Thanks
Alberto
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Sometimes the colours is flatten. Which tecnique is more efficient to brilliant colours?
Thanks
Alberto
Inviato dal mio HTC One S con Tapatalk 2
If I adjust my colors, it is in post. I use Lightroom 4. I tend to increase vibrance and color saturation. At times, I adjust specific color channels, but that is an uncommon event.
You can also do this in camera by adjusting your picture style. As a question for everyone else, I've always assumed that picture style only impacts Jpegs and not RAW files, is that true?
Ditto. Thinking about the word "brilliant" makes me think it's the vibrance slider you're after. Even in Photoshop.
If you're using a tool that isn't one of Adobe's offerings, I'm no help to you.
Picture style most definitely affects raw. Of course, you have more digital info to bail yourself out with. Personally, my camera stays on the "faithful" mode.
I usually use vibrance, which tends to produce a more 'natural' result than saturation.
True, at least directly. However, every RAW image is converted to JPG in-camera (that JPG is embedded in the RAW container as a preview image). Picture Style (and other settings like ALO, etc.) are applied to it. Importantly, that JPG is what you see on the LCD review, and it's used to generate the histogram. So, To the extent that you make exposure decisions based on the histogram or the blinkies, picture style can indirectly affect the RAW file.
Before I use Vibrancy, I adjust Levels or Curves if necessary. That makes pictures a bit more contrasty, and already brings out colors more. Vibrancy comes last.
I agree
I make changes usually in this order: WHITE BALANCE, CURVES, CONTRAST
Saturation and Vibrance colors are usually last.
Thank you
If you use Photoshop, there are some awesome actions available that produce beautiful results! The best ones are the ones that have each adjustment as a separate layer. That way you can tweak them to your liking (with either opacity adjustments or layer masks) and everything is completely non-destructive to your original photo. Love them!
Another one:
I know that picture style affects raw in DPP. Is it correct?
Yes and no. Info about the picture style is saved in the CR2 file and DPP can read that info to give you a default RAW conversion setting similar/equal to the one used in-camera (for the JPEG-preview). But it doesn't affect the binary image information captured by the sensor - you can easily switch between picture styles in DPP and get the exact same results as if another picture style was chosen in-camera.
One important thing about a possible effect on your RAW files has already been mentioned by Neuro: If you want some histogram assistance for exposing as bright as possible without blowing highlights ("exposure to the right") you should avoid some things. I've found that if I choose picture style faithful and turn off both ALO anf lens correction, I get a better indication in the histogram for when I'm really approaching the right side. More contrasty picture styles, ALO and lens correction all tend to brighten the JPEG-previews. And for some scenes this can make a real difference for the final result. (Of course, another way of achieving basically the same could be to accept a fair amount of highlight blinking in the JPEG-preview. When those files are "blanked" in DPP, Lightroom etc they will be noticeably darker and with less/no blown highlights.)
you can do almost anything in Photoshop but it can take a long time to learn what to do since it does not come with a manual and you have to scour the web for tutorials. Boosting saturation increases the intensity of all colours - boosting vibrance only boosts the colours that are not already over-cooked.
Two excellent Photoshop plugin sites: Nik and Topaz have bundles that do photoshop stuff much more easily and both have dozens of really great webinar tutorials. Photoshop Plugins like Viveza can transform colours in a picture so quickly and in so many different ways
Use a lens hood always, it can help you capture the colors in camera and avoid wash out. Also avoid using high ISO settings, use the lowest you can get away with.
I agree with the others that boosting contrast in post should happen before you boost vibrancy or saturation.
Use positive exposure compensation if your subject is at all backlit and maybe even use 1/3 stop of positive EC in normal situations. Boosting underexposure in post washes out the images but lowering exposure a little does not.
Sure I know that better exposition is the best think for great photo but you know that enhancement in post production is essential for brilliantly colors.
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