Total Solar Eclipse on August 21 in the USA - Plans, strategies, tips!

Hi everyone,

I'm really excited about the opportunity to see a total solar eclipse this August, the first closely accessible solar eclipse of my life thus far.

I thought I would start a thread about the eclipse, just to see what any of you are planning (if you are planning on traveling short or long distances to see it) and how you're gonna go about capturing the event.

1. Where are you planning on seeing the eclipse?

2. What lens(es) do you think you'll be shooting with?

3. What tools will you use to aid in capture? (Filters, tripods or rigs, automated anything, remote release, sunglasses, pinholes)

4. Who will you be watching the eclipse with?

5. Have you ever seen a total before?

Thanks for participating!!!

Alex

My answers:

1. I'm in Portland, OR. I could travel south on I-5 with 20,000 other people and try to find a place to see it around the Corvallis/Eugene area (and hope it's not cloudy that day), but instead, I think I'm gonna be in Idaho along Hwy 95 somewhere between Weiser and Cambridge. My parents have a place about 100 miles north of there, and I think I'll take my three boys there for the week.

2. I have a 70-200mm f4L IS that I own, on my 70D. But I'm not sure this will be long enough? I may rent a 100-400 for the week? Not really sure.

3. I'll be using my tripod of course, and I have my B&W 10-stop ND filter. However, I don't love using that filter as it has to be removed to compose a shot in focus, then placed back on, etc. Maybe I will purchase a variable ND filter?

4. Hopefully I will be watching it with my wife, three boys and my parents.

5. I've never seen a total, but I do remember seeing a partial eclipse in Boise, ID when I was 14 or 15.

Std warmings on looking, photo'ing the sun....

I am trying to figure out what I want to photo that is earthbound. Thinking of the eclipse as a giant nd filter

I have occasionally been reading and researching this for a few years. I am glad you mentioned this because I haven't thought about it in some time and now is the time to be making plans.

The longest duration will be in Tennessee and at first I thought it might be best to go there. I have a friend with a Cabin in West Yellowstone, he has let us vacation there many times. I might have to ask him about August of this year. I think the Tetons would be a great place to shoot. But it is probably best to pick a spot with the best atmospheric and weather conditions. It might be better to be some where in the high plains.

From what I understand if you were in the Pacific you could see a total eclipse sunrise, which would be cool. Maybe someone knows a charter that is doing this?

I do not think your 10 stops will be adequate. I do not understand your comment about composing in live view with the 10x. I could see that as a problem when you are composing for a long normal exposure but probably not if you are pointing at the sun. If it is like shooting the moon you wouldn't want a shutter speed longer than 1/2 second and I think you will have enough light passing the filter to compose.

I think shooting tethered to a lap top would be good. Looking at the back of your camera will be difficult. If you are on a tripod with a long lens the sun will move out of your view rather quickly so you will continually be recomposing. With 2 minutes or less to achieve your goal you do not want to be recomposing.

It might take a bit of research, and perhaps if you find anything new you can continue to post it here. But when doing a Lunar eclipse there is several stops difference from an almost complete to a complete. I would imagine the sun would even have a greater spread. Shuffling around to find the right filter combination during the total could be devastating to the whole adventure.

I'm going to the eclipse, and viewing it from Idaho Falls. Another very good spot is Casper Wyoming. Other areas along the path of the eclipse don't have as favourable odds for clear skies. This site is a good resource: https://www.greatamericaneclipse.com/

I've seen two total eclipses already, and in neither case did I even attempt to take a photo. I really don't think it's worthwhile. The photo you get will look nothing at all like what you will see in person, due to the huge dynamic range of the event. Eclipses are very, very short lasting. If you even spend a few seconds fiddling with a camera, you're missing out on the most spectacular sight you will ever see with the naked eye (I kid you not).

I bring binoculars and welding glass to an eclipse. During the partial phase, you need to have the welding glass in front of the binos of course. The welding glass you need is #10 (the darkest). When the eclipse is total, you don't need any protection at all. So you can look directly through the binoculars and enjoy the spectacle. Immediately before and after totality, you can witness the incredible sight of the shadow of the moon racing towards you along the horizon. There's much to see and experience. I wouldn't ruin it by trying to grab a shot. I know that this is tantamount to heresy on a photo forum, but it's my strong view. Some things in life you just have to be there for, and a photo will never do it justice. The real-life view is much, much better --- trust me on that.

Jonathan that is sage advice. Your comments line up w/ my thoughts of something earth bound - like a video of the whole shadow racing along a valley - Signal Mountain Grand Tetons looking south could be really cool. Just turn on the video and let it run. Need a wider angle than below.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2909/1...75680b1a_b.jpgTetons003 by mbarrett5076, on Flickr

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jonathan Huyer

I'm going to the eclipse, and viewing it from Idaho Falls. Another very good spot is Casper Wyoming. Other areas along the path of the eclipse don't have as favourable odds for clear skies. This site is a good resource: https://www.greatamericaneclipse.com/

I've seen two total eclipses already, and in neither case did I even attempt to take a photo. I really don't think it's worthwhile. The photo you get will look nothing at all like what you will see in person, due to the huge dynamic range of the event. Eclipses are very, very short lasting. If you even spend a few seconds fiddling with a camera, you're missing out on the most spectacular sight you will ever see with the naked eye (I kid you not).

I bring binoculars and welding glass to an eclipse. During the partial phase, you need to have the welding glass in front of the binos of course. The welding glass you need is #10 (the darkest). When the eclipse is total, you don't need any protection at all. So you can look directly through the binoculars and enjoy the spectacle. Immediately before and after totality, you can witness the incredible sight of the shadow of the moon racing towards you along the horizon. There's much to see and experience. I wouldn't ruin it by trying to grab a shot. I know that this is tantamount to heresy on a photo forum, but it's my strong view. Some things in life you just have to be there for, and a photo will never do it justice. The real-life view is much, much better --- trust me on that.

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Jonathan,

It looks like the center passes between Driggs and Victor with Moose on the opposite side of the Tetons. The only reservation I have about the area is detailed in Busted's picture. I have been in the area several times in the last few years in August, Idaho and Park side, and every time it was mostly overcast, cloudy or raining. When it does clear the sky is beautiful and clear and I couldn't think of many better places to be. Casper might be a better choice for a higher percentage chance to see it. I would prefer the view in Idaho and the Tetons if it is clear.

Yes being close to the Tetons may not be the best strategy. I'm going to be in the Snake River Valley, which has excellent prospects and also has enough options for roads to move around if necessary to avoid clouds.
https://www.greatamericaneclipse.com...laces-to-view/
Although less scenic, it is helpful to be in a wide flat plain with long views in each direction. You really don't want to miss the sight of the moon's shadow racing towards you at 1000 mph.

My plan is to head to Charleston, SC (about a 2-hour drive from my home in Savannah, GA).

FYI B&H has a quit a bit of solar viewing gear available now. I think they added quit a bit of gear in advance of the eclipse.

You can also buy baader film and make your own filter for your camera and shield for yourself. This is what I did before the last eclipse.

As for 10 stop filters, I would NOT look at the sun through the OVF with a 10 stop filter on, but several people I know did use a 10 stop filter and the LCD to capture some images.

With a DYI baader film filter:
https://flic.kr/p/c8bke9
https://flic.kr/p/c8bkdu
https://flic.kr/p/c8bkaC

Here's a shot Erno took with a 10 stop filter. He describes his setup on Flickr.
https://flic.kr/p/c2J4UL

From what I have read so far a solar filter is 100x greater than the 10 stop. Which means an additional 6 to 7 stops.

So a solar filter is 16 to 17 stops.

Jonathans comments about full total, what will be required when it happens? Will a filter be required?

That is what I recall as well, solar filters, baader film, etc, are in the 16 stop filter range for visible light. These specialized filters do two things: 1) stops enough light to allow photographing details such as sun spots, etc. 2) they specifically block non-visible light as well. I forget if it is UV or IR, but stacking say a 10 stop and a 6 stop filters would get you too 16 stops allow photographing details such as sun spots, but may not block non-visible light that may harm your eyes if you look through an OVF.

So, again, I would only look through an OVF if using something specialized.

As for totality, that will be very brief, and I'd keep a filter in and simply adjust shutter speeds.

Btw, some of my favorite pics (from others) from the last eclipse weren't directly of the sun itself, but rather reflections or shadow areas. The one that stands out to me was one taken of the ground beneath a tree. You could see the eclipse in 100 bright spots on the ground. Unfortunately it was an iPhone shot, so I can't link to it. But as is often the case, the best shots are not what you would expect.

You don't need a filter during totality, in fact you probably won't get a decent picture with a filter on because of the greatly reduced light. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the dynamic range during totality is extreme, so you won't be able to capture the 'true' view with a single exposure. However you can target certain aspects of the event with different exposure settings. For example in order to capture the Bailey's Beads you will need a faster exposure, since those are the brightest parts. For details in the corona you will need a longer exposure. However you don't want to go with too long a shutter speed, because the corona is moving rather rapidly. There are very intricate details within the corona that are quite difficult to capture. I discovered this on my first eclipse, in India in 1995. I had seen many pictures of eclipses, so I thought I knew exactly what to expect. But the real-life view completely surprised me --- I was utterly blown away and simply could not believe my eyes. It was so ridiculously beautiful that it completely eclipsed (pun intended) any photo that I had ever seen before or since.

If you are determined to get a shot, then I would suggest setting your camera on exposure bracketing, with maybe +/- 2 stops, and using a remote trigger while you observe the real thing with binoculars. Photos of the partial phases will be rather dull by comparison to totality, but you still need a filter in order to aim the camera. The main problem of course is that the sun is moving, and the longer the focal length you use the faster the sun will move out of your field of view. You can pre-aim the camera by observing the shadow it makes behind you. When the shadow is smallest, you are probably pointed pretty close to the sun. Then you can look through the viewfinder and fine tune the aiming. Practice this in advance --- it's trickier than you might think. You don't need a terribly huge focal length to get the full corona, because the diameter can easily be double to triple that of the sun itself. I'm going to guess that 400 mm should be ample, but I could be off on that (like I said earlier, I've never tried to take a photo myself).

I don't plan on traveling; in Bangor Maine, we will be getting a partial eclipse that I plan to shoot with my Lee Big Stopper.

I'll try to find some of the other references I used before 2012, but this covers a lot of ground.

http://www.mreclipse.com/SEphoto/SEphoto.html

Btw, I am planning on being in Idaho. Haven't pin point where just yet.

These are all great replies, thanks for all the information guys.

I guess my overwhelming feeling right now is being torn about the idea of trying to shoot the eclipse. I don't for a second doubt what Jonathan is saying: first, that seeing a total eclipse will be unlike anything I've ever seen before and something I would really just want to take in, and second, that getting a shot that comes anywhere close to the actual experience is difficult at the least and impossible at the most.

But the challenge! :)

I think that's what is driving me to get a shot of it. I feel like a lot of my drive for my photography is kind of like trophy hunting. I got that shot that I really like, and I get to keep it, take it with me. I'm not a hunter, but that analogy might be close.

Maybe I'll just rent a 100-400mm lens and just shoot totality without a filter. Take 10-20 shots. Be a spectator the rest of the time.

Could you not "right size" the composition w/ the full moon (say tonight or in July)? It is the moon that is in the way :).

For aiming the camera before totality, it would be gross, some sort of simple tube - like a paper towel tube. Config it with some sort of gaffers tape, etc (aiming at a basketball on the ground vs. the sun :) ). Keep the lens cap on, set it up and get a feeling for how much and where the sun is moving at your lat/lon a day or two before. If you where really bored, day before, line it up at the same time of day, take a time lapse of the shadow profile of the tube and calculate the reverse so that the next day you set the rig up w/ the tube and the reverse of the ending shadow profile from the day before and time it out for totality, etc. and i would think you could get set up well before the eclipse starts, enjoy the show, fine tune at the moment of totality and let'er fly with either a built in intervalometer, remote, or magic lantern..... just remember to put the lens caps back on (I have three bodies and could theoretically be shooting different parts).

Of course I suspect some more scientific folks could find/calculate the movements and angles - I am not that good with numbers. (actually I am just lazy).

Just brain storming..... well passing shower anyway.

Mike

I have enough frequent flier miles to burn - if there is going to be a small gathering in Idaho...... that could be a ton of fun.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Busted Knuckles

I have enough frequent flier miles to burn - if there is going to be a small gathering in Idaho...... that could be a ton of fun.

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That's a good thought!

For aiming I know how hard it is to locate the moon with the 500mm on a tripod. My thought was to have a filter in place and be tracking it just before total. And pull the filter. You can keep it just at the edge where the sun tracks accross. Then during totality have a release and fire away.

I like Johnathans idea about bracketing. The shift in dynamic range he mentions I new would be happening. Over the years I have shot several things where you only have a few seconds during the action. Manual mode is probably a definite no go on this one. I am think AV with Auto ISO might be the way to go. Any one have thoughts on this?

I also think I should use the 1D IV or the 7D II. For two reason, one if I burn up the camera both have less value than the 5ds R. Second both would respond quicker and higher shutter speed. I have never tried, I will need to see if bracketing works with continuous shooting. Also would there really even be an advantage using the 5Ds R 50mp sensor?

I would also would like to have a subject picked out for landscape to catch the shadows. Have the 5Ds R set up on a tripod ready to go. Like perviously mentioned a great capture of the whole scene might be better than what you can capture shooting the sun. Any picture I take with my camera gear of the sun will never close to the shots you see from the experts with the dedicated solar gear.

On a landscape shot would a CP add to or detract from the scene at total?

Not that I've tried a CP when shooting towards the sun, but a CP is supposed to have greatest effect when shooting 90 degrees from the sun... so I would imagine in this case, a CP would have little to no effect. On the other hand, if nearly all the direct light is blocked, then perhaps all the remaining light in the landscape is scattered from an extreme angle, and a CP would have a large effect.

I think what you need to do is to convince B+H or another quality polarizing filter maker to do two side-by-side test shots during the eclipse, one with a filter, one without, and report on their findings. If it helps, they sell more filters next time. Seems like a wise investment of their time.

You wouldn't need a filter of any kind during totality, even for wide-angle landscapes. On my first eclipse in India in 1995, I took a wide-angle shot of the scene during totality. One of the cool things that I did not expect, is that you get a 360-degree sunset glow all around you when you are in the shadow of the moon. This picture "sort of" captures that. Granted it was taken with 50-speed slide film, and then scanned, so the quality is about as low as you can get. The corona of the sun is hopelessly overexposed, as you can see. This eclipse was only 60 seconds long, so I just pushed the button on the camera while watching the eclipse through binoculars.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-LtSFrwB-L.jpg

Ok, so now I am getting a little OCD.

Jonathan, I am thinking one would be looking for a high point with open sight lines?

I have found a spot in Idaho that is pretty darn close to the center line of the totality, 600 feet (180 meters) above the plain. And it has a dirt road to it (other than pear I am not in any other shape) so no hiking or very little. South end of Saddle Mountain.

I was looking for something more Palouse like but haven't found it yet.

Want to have several "Plan B" sites for last moment weather issues.

Thoughts?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DavidEccleston

Not that I've tried a CP when shooting towards the sun, but a CP is supposed to have greatest effect when shooting 90 degrees from the sun... so I would imagine in this case, a CP would have little to no effect. On the other hand, if nearly all the direct light is blocked, then perhaps all the remaining light in the landscape is scattered from an extreme angle, and a CP would have a large effect.

I think what you need to do is to convince B+H or another quality polarizing filter maker to do two side-by-side test shots during the eclipse, one with a filter, one without, and report on their findings. If it helps, they sell more filters next time. Seems like a wise investment of their time.

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During totality the light wouldn't be direct since you are in the shade. If it had no effect then I suppose it wouldn't be a negative using one and could only be a positive.

Possibly the scenario would be similar to sunset just as the sun drops below the horizon. That might be a good setting to practice with.

Being at a high point isn't essential, but if you're in a hilly area then it would certainly be an advantage. One important factor to consider is that you should have multiple options available for picking a Plan B location, in case clouds move in. Here is where I am going:
https://goo.gl/maps/wSP7zY95F8A2
It is right on the centre line, in a wide plain, with roads going in four directions in case we have to relocate in a hurry. Weather prospects here are just about as good as they get for the entire eclipse, but you can never count on that!

I just asked for my friends West Yellowstone Cabin for the period, it is not a for sure thing yet but very likely. I have 8 of us in my family that may go, possibly others. The consensus is to go to the Tetons, it is just over a 2.5 hour drive from WY, and it is 1.8 to Idaho Falls. I think the plan will be to check the forecast in the morning, Tetons as the first choice with Idaho as a backup.

Wow...I was originally just planning on coordinating my trip to see family in Idaho and heading south a little to check it out. But I might get a bit more serious with my planning.

Attachment 2616

Attachment 2617

Attachment 2618

Just looking at those three maps, if I were to plan a trip that include more than just the eclipse, the Oregon coast, Stanley basin in Idaho, or Teton/Yellowstone NPs come to mind.

And, this is more for my reference, but a guide.

The spot I noticed is a bit northwest of Jon's lat/lon center point- pretty much the same nape of the neck.

As Brant pointed out, there is some pretty massive scenery along the path. I even looked down in Nebraska to see if there was an overlook to the undulations - haven't found one yet.

Mike

Hi Everyone....I received an email from BillW, who is having trouble with his account. He'd like to post the following:

I’m reading the solar eclipse thread and people are thinking of using their Big Stopper….I’ve done a little research on this and most of the opinions are against this because of the possibility of frying your sensor. If I remember correctly, the BS is measured at 1/10,000, while the Baader film is rated at 1/100,000 blocking power.

A better solution and relatively cheap is Baader Astrosolar safety film; https://www.adorama.com/searchsite/d...der+astrosolar

And here’s a link on how to make a DIY filter for your lenses…..especially the larger lenses; e.g. your 150-600, 500’s, etc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiDheBRZrg0

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kayaker72

Hi Everyone....I received an email from BillW, who is having trouble with his account. He'd like to post the following:

I’m reading the solar eclipse thread and people are thinking of using their Big Stopper….I’ve done a little research on this and most of the opinions are against this because of the possibility of frying your sensor. If I remember correctly, the BS is measured at 1/10,000, while the Baader film is rated at 1/100,000 blocking power.

A better solution and relatively cheap is Baader Astrosolar safety film; https://www.adorama.com/searchsite/d...der+astrosolar

And here’s a link on how to make a DIY filter for your lenses…..especially the larger lenses; e.g. your 150-600, 500’s, etc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiDheBRZrg0

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Or my Russian 1100 :) I noticed I have a clear screw in/on filter that be used to support/protect :)

This e-book on photographing the eclipse has just been released, and I will be buying it:
http://www.amazingsky.com/tablet/eclipsebook.html

The author is perhaps one of the most experienced people out there when it comes to this subject. I've met him and he definitely knows his stuff!

Jonathan, maybe you can report back with the readers digest version. With 290 pages it should be thorough.

I found this on a Nikon's website.
One of the best recommendations is practicing on sunny days before the eclipse.

http://www.nikonusa.com/en/learn-and...r-eclipse.html

I just downloaded the book and flipped through it quickly --- it is incredibly thorough and has absolutely everything I could possibly want to see. It is well written and organized, with plenty of diagrams, pictures, and references. The author has been to 15 eclipses and shares pretty much everything he's learned. I was particularly impressed with all the ideas for creative shots, as opposed to the standard zoom-in on the corona. In fact I now think I'm gong to try a wide-angle shot myself.
In spite of the excellent images that are shown in the book, they still don't come close to what you will actually see with the naked eye. The incredible sight of my first eclipse in India is still burned indelibly in my memory, and I've never seen a photo like it.
For anyone contemplating going to the eclipse (and you must go!), this book is an excellent guide. Even if you're not planning to take a shot.

Been doing some thinking about this myself lately...mostly prompted by this thread :)

I'm not sure whether I'll be able to travel to see the eclipse, but I'd really like to. Since I likely won't know until much closer to the date, I'm considering booking a hotel somewhere anyway (as long as they have a good cancellation plan). I'd want to go somewhere large enough to have some hotel options, but still be a reasonably short drive to see the eclipse and hopefully good weather forecast. Seems like Idaho is looking popular so I did a quick look and maybe Boise for some reasonable hotel options? I'm not at all familiar with that area of the US so can anyone provide some insight as to if that would be a good option? Would be travelling with the family (4 yr old son and 2 yr old daughter) so nearby family fun would be a bonus.

Or does anyone have any other suggestions? Open to any options along the eclipse path, provided hotels are available. Major airport proximity is also a plus since I'd be flying from Newfoundland (Canada).

Stephen

I am planning my summer trip to see family (I am from Idaho) around the eclipse. I currently have hotel reservations in McCall and Boise. From Boise, I would recommend driving 2-3 hrs to Stanley basin. This is a beautiful area in and of itself with the Sawtooth mountain range, Stanley Lake, Redfish lake, etc. From Boise you could also drive west on I-84 for about 1.5 hrs. This is sagebrush/hill country. Pretty, but in a different way. Or you could drive north on SR-95 for ~ 1 hr to near Smith's Ferry. My issue with this location is that the canyon is fairly narrow along SR-55 (pretty) with few spots along the road to pull over. If I end up along SR-55 I am going to be checking a lot of things prior and will likely shoot for a dirt road on a mountain top with a more expansive view.

A big plus for Boise, all the above are in a rain shadow of the Cascade Mtn range. Great chance of no clouds. A big negative...peak fire season. Roads in the forests could easily be closed and there could be a lot of smoke (granted, they got a lot of water this year). In short, Boise is a good spot, but there are still risks.

That said, I would also be looking in the St. Louis/Knoxville/Nashville area. That is the spot with longest duration....and could add on Great Smokey's NP and some waterfalls :)

Stephen,

I grew up in Boise and know the area pretty well, including the area north of Boise where the total eclipse path will be.

Boise's a great medium/small city with plenty of places to stay and a good number of options for family fun. Plenty of restaurants, great parks close to downtown Boise, and it is pretty close to where the total eclipse will be.

My concern with the Boise area would be that the area where the total eclipse passes, north of Boise, is a relatively closed-in area without many roads. It's pretty mountainous/hilly throughout the entire area, although there are breaks in the hills and mountains with some really great-sized valleys.

But it's two lane roads everywhere you go, and mostly in a north-south direction. Many of the sections of the road (Hwy 55 north out of Boise) follow river/stream areas and are surrounded by hills, leaving the view of the sky relatively small and there are few options to travel quickly east/west in case of cloud cover.

The center of totality runs through Smiths Ferry on Hwy 55, but just a little ways north is Round Valley, which really opens up and would be likely the best place to view in this area. It has a number of east/west and north/south dirt roads that are off the Hwy.

Hwy 55 is also the main north/south option out/into Boise, so I would be worried that it could become a parking lot in spots on the eclipse day. Weekend summer traffic on this road under normal circumstances is pretty heavy.

Eastern Idaho is much more wide-open and flat where the eclipse path will be. This leaves much more flexibility to see the eclipse and travel more easily if things need to change. But there are no cities in that area close to the size of Boise, so traveling to the area is more difficult (as in, takes more plane flights to get there) and the cities there may not be as fun as Boise. I would wager you'd still have a good time with small kids there, however. Family fun is usually pretty easy to find, no matter where in Idaho you may be.

Honestly though, my experience in eastern Idaho is pretty limited.

Hope this helps!

Alex

Thanks Brant and Alex. That is exactly the sort of info I am looking for. Sounds to me like Boise might be a good place to stay and then depending on the weather forecast on the day I could drive north into the eclipse path or further northeast as a couple options. Sounds like my concern would be traffic and road congestion though. I would hate to be stuck in heavy traffic with small kids and miss the best opportunity to view the eclipse.

I'm also still considering the St. Louis area somewhere as that would likely be easier to fly into and I would expect the roads to be able to accommodate more peak traffic. Perhaps actually view the eclipse in Columbia or somewhere nearby.

And my wife has put in a plug for the Carolinas area. Adding a beach to the potential vacation would definitely earn some brownie points with the whole family. I'm not sure about the relative chance for clear skies there on eclipse day though. Would be a long way to go to end up with cloudy skies....

Still lots to think about....but I'm leaning towards booking a hotel or two...maybe in Boise and somewhere on the east coast so I at least have some options in July when I'd likely be able to actually commit to buying flights.

Stephen

I'm starting to plan more for this and think that I want to incorporate some sort of Lighthouse along the coast. This is what our Eclipse will look like. It's partial.

I'm going to experiment with full sun but does anyone have experience with using the Lee Big Stopper for this? I'm also wondering, I must have to do some sort of exposure blending to make sure that the lighthouse comes out and the sun is not blown out?

Or you could head to the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse.

I bet the real estate for the shot that has the eclipse and the light house in it will be at a premium.