Figure Skating - looking for tips

My daughter has been getting more into figure skating, which is typically indoors. Depending on the rink, lighting can be challenging. I recently upgraded to a 5D3 and would be shooting with the 70-200 f/4L IS.

Looking for any tips from camera settings, technique, or post processing. Obviously the 70-200 f/2.8L ISII would help, but that will probably wait due to the camera investment. I also have a monopod on the way (RRS MH02-Pro package is $60 off at the moment).

Here are a few shots from a recent show. With the 5D3, should I use AF Point Expansion or Zone AF (or other)? These are slightly cropped, should I get in closer? Any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks,
Eric

1/320, ƒ/4, ISO 1000
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2814/...bf193710_c.jpg
2M3A0238.jpg by EricPvpi2, on Flickr

1/320, ƒ/4, ISO 1250
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7358/...e992efaa_c.jpg
2M3A0240.jpg by EricPvpi2, on Flickr

1/320, ƒ/4, ISO 2500
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7001/...c8fb9103_c.jpg
2M3A0243.jpg by EricPvpi2, on Flickr

I think your technique is fine. With the 5D3 you should be fine with the f/4 IS. My only suggestion would be to up the exposure and get closer to the ice (if that's possible). I think shooting at their level would be a better spot than up high. Shooting at f/4 as you have will yield pretty good blur if you are shooting toward the 200mm end and filling the frame with your subject. If you wanted to get creative, you could slow your shutter speed and do a little panning as your subject moves across the ice in front of you. I view ice skating the same as I would view photographing youth soccer. Get on their level and try to fill the frame as best you can. If you can't fill the frame, have the subject to one side of the frame to give a sense of motion for where they are moving in the frame.

Thanks Jayson. Location depends on the rink. Here I went up high to get above the glass of the rink. Sometimes I am able to find an open door, but during competitions good spots are usually taken by judges or the hired photographers/videographers. Otherwise, I have to shoot through the glass.

I would think you could use up to ISO 3200 without any issues (maybe even up to ISO 6400, but after that, I find the decrease in DR range can impact higher contrast shots), so you have room to spare with your current set up. If you need faster glass, I would think you would be looking at 85 f/1.8, 100 f/2 or 135 f/2 to give you two stops of improvement, depending on which focal length would best suit your needs. But, as I said, your current set up seems to be working. I agree with decreasing the angle to get on the same level of the skaters.

I have done a lot of indoor sports.

Always had low light, moving subjects, and humidity problems.

Be careful when changing your lenses in these environmental changes as they can create condensation on your sensor.

Make sure to let your equipment warm up or cool down before removing it from your case.

F4 is not going to let you get the results you want. The 70-200 f2.8 is made for this action sport, but there are times when the 2.8 is not fast enough to avoid

motion blurr.

If in doubt push the ISO to get the shot. Grain is acceptable motion blurr is not.

The 70-200 2.8 ( I use the nonIS) is my go to for indoor low light motion sports.

I have used the 135 2.0 with terrific results, but felt confined by the focal length for moving sports.

Used the 135 mainly with diving and wrestling. It's results are stunning when you catch the right depth of field.

Also I use single point autofocus with Al Servo.

Bottom line: Get the 70-200 2.8

Thanks

From my own experience, all the advice above is right on the mark. I volunteered as a photographer for the Alberta Winter Games, which were held in Canmore this year. One of the events I chose was figure skating, as I thought it would be a fun challenge. I got to stand in the player's box, which was great because I could be at ice level and not have to shoot through any glass. I used my 300 f/2.8, which worked okay in vertical orientation on a full-frame camera. It allowed me to get tight compositions of the skaters, and not have to crop much at all. The monopod was an essential aid. I used f/2.8 aperture, and ISO of 3200 most of the time to give at least 1/1000 second speed or faster. If you're using a shorter focal length, you can probably get away with a slightly slower shutter speed. I found that it was essential to use exposure compensation, and dial in +2/3 of a stop (when shooting in evaluative metering mode). I like my ice to be bright white, and the skaters to be properly exposed too. White balance adjustment was necessary in Lightroom, but easy to do. I think the 70-200 f/2.8 would be a great lens for this sport, although you would probably end up cropping a few of your shots later on.

Hi, I’ve never done figure skating but a lot of hockey (which should have many similarities).

Looking at your sample photos above there are (already mentioned in the answers above) three main areas I would like to improve:

1) Too much ice, too little skater – getting closer (or even cropping) would improve this rather easily. I understand your hesitation regarding shooting through the glass, but my experience is that most venues have at least some spots of fairly clean glass along the long sides. Shooting through the glass can affect contrast, it can steal some light, and it could also give some color cast. These things can fairly easily be compensated for in post.

2) To me the “audience angle” affects the sense of presence – also this area could be improved by shooting rinkside through the glass.

3) These are all a bit too dark. Of course this is partly a matter of personal taste, and in my opinion no. 3 at ISO2500 is the best. I’d say that in this venue (under these lighting conditions) an even brighter exposure would have been better. E.g. four thirds brighter ISO (i.e. ISO 6400) could have been used to get a brighter exposure and a faster shutter speed, maybe ISO6400, f/4, 1/640. (If you fill more of the frame with the skater you will want faster shutter speeds than 1/320, otherwise motion blur will likely be quite visible. When shooting hockey I find it easiest to lock the exposure all manual – the lighting across the rink may not be perfectly constant, but it gives more consequent exposures than AE. (The camera exposure metering will otherwise be fooled by the amount of ice in the frame, the brightness of the jerseys etc.)

I’ve learned I get the best results using zone AF when shooting hockey. (Only the center point gives me too many shots with the commercials across the rink in perfect focus ;-)

Keep on shooting!

Awesome, thanks for the great feedback from everyone.

My plan for the next time:

• Get closer, zoom in, eye level. Even if shooting through the glass
• Play with +2/3 stop exposure compensation and manual ISO setting between 3200 and 6400
• Faster shutter speed. 1/500 or better. Right now she isn't to fast yet, but that will change.
• Zone AF

I have definately thought about the 135 f/2 and the 70-200 f/2.8. I will wait a bit (if I can) before deciding what to do next. It is always a case of "this one more thing will improve my shot", which lead me to the 5D3 and adding a monopod. So I will let this latest change set in before deciding where to go and what I need to add or change. I still have a lot to learn on the 5D3 as is. I think the 70-200 f/2.8 would give me the better overall use for other things I shoot, even if the 135 is an extra stop. I also have to time that knowing I will want an ultra wide angle and maybe a 100-400 at some point. There is always one more thing to get :D.

I have a few weeks before the next competition, but I have some early morning Saturday practice sessions to play around. I will post some updates as I go along and still welcome any other feedback.

Thanks,
Eric

Note that even though I wrote about the 135 2.0 and the 70-200 f2.8
The 135 is a specialty lens but the 70-200 goes everywhere.
Even portraits to get bokeh.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iND

Note that even though I wrote about the 135 2.0 and the 70-200 f2.8
The 135 is a specialty lens but the 70-200 goes everywhere.
Even portraits to get bokeh.

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Noted - I had previously thought about the 135 for indoor sports and portraits. But I know I would get a lot more use out of the 70-200 and would probably upgrade my f/4 to the f/2.8 over the getting 135 since it would help here, but would also be useful so many other places. I am liking the focal length of the 70-200 much more on the 5D than when I had it on my 60D.