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Thread: Annular Eclipse May 20,2012

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  1. #1
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    Annular Eclipse May 20,2012

    Greetings everyone. I have the opportunity to shoot an annular eclipse later this month. I'm looking for advice on how to best shoot this rare event. I am thinking about renting a 1.4 or even 2 extender for this. Basically, I need to know if the gear I have below will be adequate to get a decent capture. Using advanced theoretical mathematics, I figure I can get a reach of 448 mm using the 1.4 extender and 640 mm with the 2.0 extender.

    Gear:
    7D
    70-200 IS
    tripod
    B+W ND110 (10 stop filter)
    various LEE GNDs

    Much obliged for your expertise! Erno (image taken from Google Images)
    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Super Moderator Kayaker72's Avatar
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    Erno,

    Are you heading North to the Chico area? I am going to be in Monterey, but am trying to figure out how to head north....

    BTW, we are thinking along the same lines...here is the thread I posted:

    http://community.the-digital-picture...ead.php?t=6015

  3. #3
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    still up in the air, but i think i may drive out to Bidwell Park. I need to find a tree or something to put in the foreground. sun will be about 2 "handwidths' from the horizon, so not even sure how to do this. I'll be using Live View only on my 7D for this. worse case scenario is a fry my sensor, so will have to upgrade to a 5DM3.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator Kayaker72's Avatar
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    I had the exact same thought.

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    FWIW, I filled my APS-C sensor (maybe 90% of sensor height) with the supermoon the other week, using 1000mm f/14 (250 f/3.5 x2 x2).
    Don't go too overboard with length, with that tight a framing the moon moved out of shot in about 30 seconds. (It was kinda freaky, watching it move on 5x live-view that quickly).

    I know the sun's probably smaller than a supermoon, but 800mm or so is probably long enough for an aps-c (1200mm FF or so?) if you want to get a nice border around it like that palm-tree shot, 200mm x2 = 400mm and a bit of cropping on a 7D should be just nice.
    An awful lot of electrons were terribly inconvenienced in the making of this post.
    Gear Photos

  6. #6
    Super Moderator Kayaker72's Avatar
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    Enro,

    There is a thread on this over at CR. They mention Baader filter paper. I just picked some up from http://www.astro-physics.com/. There also seem to be several filters made from the material for telescopes. I found some "astrozap" filters here: http://www.optcorp.com/productList.aspx that seem to be from the same material.

    Maybe you have a local photography/telescope store that has some of this material.

    Good luck,
    Brant

  7. #7
    Senior Member conropl's Avatar
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    If you know anyone that is a welder, you could use welding glass for your filter.
    5DS R, 1D X, 7D, Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6, 24mm f/1.4L II, 16-35mm f/4L IS, 24-105mm f/4L, 50mm f/1.8, 100mm Macro f/2.8L, 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II, 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L, 580EX-II
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  8. #8
    Super Moderator Kayaker72's Avatar
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    Thanks Pat. I have seen that you need Shade No. 14 for solar viewing. I've been looking, but haven't yet found what the basis is for the shade numbers. I actually have ordered some shade number 12 from mcmaster.com, but had trouble finding shade number 14. Most welding glass out there seems to be shade #5-8. So, be careful if using welding glass.

    For comparison, the Baader filter/film for photography is rated at ND 3.8 (12 2/3 stops). But when I talked to the people at astro-physics they really emphasized that was for photography only and if there was any chance of me looking through the viewfinder, to use the filter/film rated "visual" which is ND 5.0, so 16 2/3 stops.

    I am a complete novice about this, so I am being conservative. But it also seems to be about more than just number of stops and that you have to be very careful about blocking non-visible light, both IR and UV.
    Last edited by Kayaker72; 05-17-2012 at 11:05 PM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member conropl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kayaker72 View Post
    ...Most welding glass out there seems to be shade #5-8. So, be careful if using welding glass.

    I am a complete novice about this, so I am being conservative. But it also seems to be about more than just number of stops and that you have to be very careful about blocking non-visible light, both IR and UV.
    See link below. Welding glass in shades of 10-15. I am not an expert,but it sounds like welding glass in the range you are looking for is avaialble.
    http://www.phillips-safety.com/store...hp?cPath=41_68

    I saw what was called welding safety glasses that were shades of 5-8, but I do not think those would ever be considered good enough for arc welding.
    5DS R, 1D X, 7D, Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6, 24mm f/1.4L II, 16-35mm f/4L IS, 24-105mm f/4L, 50mm f/1.8, 100mm Macro f/2.8L, 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II, 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L, 580EX-II
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  10. #10
    Super Moderator Kayaker72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by conropl View Post
    I saw what was called welding safety glasses that were shades of 5-8, but I do not think those would ever be considered good enough for arc welding.
    Yep, and yet welding safety googles with #5 shade glass pop up twice in the first four options if you type in "solar eclipse glasses" on amazon. For welding glass, I've only seen the #14 recommended. I've read about people successfully using shades ~11-12, and I may try shade 12 with the 7D in Live view. But for direct viewing, I am going to stay with the baader film I bought.

    These are some summaries as I have found on the web:
    http://www.perkins-observatory.org/eclipsesafety.html

    http://earthsky.org/space/view-may-2...f-venus-safely

    http://eclipse.gsfc.nasa.gov/SEhelp/safety.html#filter

    BTW, for photography:

    http://eclipse.gsfc.nasa.gov/SEhelp/SEphoto.html

    http://www.mreclipse.com/SEphoto/SEphoto.html
    Last edited by Kayaker72; 05-18-2012 at 11:45 AM.

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