Filter Question...Need some specific insight

[freelanceshots]

I bought a B+W 82mm slim polarizer filter sometime last year and I am running into problems using it with the type of photography that I do now. To be more specific I shoot interiors for a living where I'm required to shoot into bright lights and directly into bright windows. This filter is not the multi coated version where I saved a few bucks and it works great when I'm not shooting directly into a bright light source. My question is would the multi-coated version give me much better results where the non mc filter is giving me lens flare and circles that distort the color and contrast. I know the quick solution is to not shoot at these angles but there is no way around it as certain shots have to be taken during the day per the rules. So far my 16-35 II lens without the filter does a pretty good job of controlling this but having the polarizer filter on helps control many of the reflections seen on the art work and furniture. If the more expensive MC filter would cut out the flare and ghosting effects then I'll have to spring for the 200 plus dollar filter where my mint condition non multicoated filter have to go up for sale.

[Sean Setters]

I'm honestly unsure how much it would help, but I think it'd be worth a shot.

[Kayaker72]

Hi Freelanceshots,


I may be telling you something that you already know, but my understanding is that one of the upgrades with MRC is that they place multiple coatings on both sides of filter; front and back. Without the coating on the back side of the filter (or with a single coat), light can bounce off the first element of the lens and then be reflected off the back side of the filter. Multiple coatson the backside of the filter helps minimize these reflections which sound very similar to what you are describing. Also, I haven't been able to verify this morning, but Irecall from when I looked into MRC lenses that light could also be reflected off the CCD/CMOS sensor to cause this issue.


I hope that helps,


Brant

[neuroanatomist]

In theory, the multi-resistant coating would help. B+W state in their catalog that the multi-coating, "does indeed enhance image quality significantly, especially with high-contrast subjects and when a light source (like the sun or a light bulb) is visible in the picture."


Of course, I suspect you know the theory and were hoping for more practical insights... So, I grabbed a couple of quick shots before heading into work this morning. Since bright windows are hard to come by at 5:31am, I shot directly into an LED Maglite. The best comparison would be between a standard vs. multicoated CPL, but since I don't have both, I used a B+W ND 103 (0.9/3-stop) - that and my B+W 10-stop are my only non-MRC filters - and a SlimK&auml;semann CPL (which has the MRC coating). Shots were with a 5DII and EF 24-105mm f/4<span style="color: #ff0000;"]L IS. I used f/8 to allow a combination of ghosting, flare, and aperture-blade starbursting. To bring up the flare, I shot +2 EC and pushed another 0.5 stops in DPP (which was the only PP on the images). The only difference in exposure was shutter speed to compensate for the differing filter factors.



B+W ND 103 (non-MRC)
[img]/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer-Components-UserFiles/00-00-00-35-15/Flare_2D00_ND.JPG[/img]



B+WSlimK&auml;semann CPL (MRC)
[img]/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer-Components-UserFiles/00-00-00-35-15/Flare_2D00_KSMCPL.JPG[/img]


The non-MRC ND filter has a little more flare - especially noticeable are the second (large) and third spots moving away from the light at 4 o'clock. The more distant flare spots are only very slightly fainter with the MRC coating. The ghosting is also appears a little fainter with the MRC coating, while the starbursts seem unaffected. Note that you can also see the effect of the CPL in eliminating the reflection at the bottom of the 5 on the clock. As a side note, theK&auml;semann CPL doesn't look any different in terms of flare effects from the MRC UV filter I keep on the lens, and neither look much different from no filter.


So, the MRC coating makes a modest difference, at least in this simple and contrived test.


Hope that helps...let us know what you decide to do!


--John

[TucsonTRD]

There is a noticeable difference, and that

[freelanceshots]

That was very helpful. Thank you for taking your time to do that demonstration. That gives me some real world information. Also I was using a Hoya Digital Pro 1 MC protection filters where its states on the Hoya site that this filter offers a DMC - Digital Multi-Coated feature. Now I honestly don

[Daniel Browning]

I shoot interiors for a living where I'm required to shoot into bright lights and directly into bright windows.

Are you sure that the polarizer is necessary for all the interior shots? I'm sure you thought of that already, but as Captain Obvious, I must point it out. []


Another possibility (obvious again) is to bring the ambient light levels up closer to the outdoors via flash. Then there wont be nearly so much flare.

[Kayaker72]

After seeing Neuro's test I remembered that I had aCanon UV filter that I could compare to my B+W MRC filter. I originally bought the canon filter with my EFS-15-85 because canon wouldn't put their name on anything but the best, right [:P]. Anyways, I am very glad to have TDP site and these forums because I upgraded to the B+W MRC very quickly.


So last night emulated Neuro's test adnI tried the different filters (an no filter) aimed at a recessed light in my kitchen and at a flash light in the kitchen with all the lights on (more on that at the end). Here are the results:


With the canon UV filter


[img]/resized-image.ashx/__size/800x0/__key/CommunityServer-Components-UserFiles/00-00-00-46-64-test/Direct-Light_2D00_Canon-Glass-Filter.JPG[/img]


With the B+W MRC filter


[img]/resized-image.ashx/__size/800x0/__key/CommunityServer-Components-UserFiles/00-00-00-46-64-test/Direct-light_2D00_B_2B00_W-MRC.JPG[/img]


With no filter


[img]/resized-image.ashx/__size/800x0/__key/CommunityServer-Components-UserFiles/00-00-00-46-64-test/Direct-light_2D00_no-UV-filter.JPG[/img]


I also tried looking at the light at more of an angle:


With Canon UV Filter


[img]/resized-image.ashx/__size/800x0/__key/CommunityServer-Components-UserFiles/00-00-00-46-64-test/Angled-Light_2D00_Canon-Glass-Filter.JPG[/img]


With B+W MRC filter


[img]/resized-image.ashx/__size/800x0/__key/CommunityServer-Components-UserFiles/00-00-00-46-64-test/Angled-Light_2D00_B_2B00_W-MRC.JPG[/img]


With no filter


[img]/resized-image.ashx/__size/800x0/__key/CommunityServer-Components-UserFiles/00-00-00-46-64-test/Angled-Light_2D00_no-UV-Filter.JPG[/img]


I didn't upload the pictures, but relevant to what Daniel just posted, I also tried shooting at a maglight but with all the ambient lights in my kitchen on and usingthe flash mounted on the 7D. Under those conditions, I didn't see a difference betweenthe filters, which would support Daniel'spost. BTW, their seem to be benefits to being Captain Obvious...I had to run a test....[]

[freelanceshots]

Thanks for taking the time to shoot the stuff that you did. This can also give me an idea if its really worth spending the extra money on a MC filter since I don't own both types of filters. Where I see most of my problems is when the camera will be on a tripod at about chest level looking into a room or a scene pretty much directly in front of a window with 3 to 6 lamps scattered around inside. The bed is usually in front of the window with a nice bedspread, comforter and a decorative end blanket which is most often brightly colored. The round flare happens right on the decorative end blanket on the inside of the bed where the shadow falls. Its a very high contrast scene where my L lens even struggles to get a constant level of contrast and color plus the general area can get washed out as well. Another time that I see the flaring is when there are bright lights, floods, directional lights in the ceilings and there is no way to avoid getting these lights at the angles where they don't enter the lens even with the hood on. Also the main light source is usually a large window maybe five feet tall by anywhere from 4 feet to 6 feet wide and it will be the only window so its usually bright light entering an otherwise dark room.

[freelanceshots]

I looked at the last photos that were shot of the light in the ceiling and the MRC filter and the non filter shots look almost identical. The non MC filter does show more problematic areas and more haze. Am I seeing this right?