Hi guys,
I am looking into getting a wireless flash trigger.... what i noticed was basic specs was about the same that is to say they all sync with the camear at around 1/250. I did come across some "newer" models of flash triggers which offer HIGH SPEED SYNC capability. Of course they do tend to cost more than "regular" models.
Question- Is HIGH SPEED SYNC capability worth the extra cost you pay for, for a wireless flash triggers???
Thanks in Advance
James
Of course it is...if you need HSS. If you don't, then probably not... Do you frequently use HSS? Do you need it in situations where there isn't another solution? For example, if you're using HSS to allow higher shutter speeds when using fill flash outdoors, you can use an ND filter on the lens instead and the cost may be less than the newer triggers.Originally Posted by jks_photo
neuro ....@neuro.... yes basically that's what I intend to use it for. I basically want to be able to use fill flash outdoors and at the same use a wide open aperture, but wide open aperture often results with a shutter speed higher than the normal sync speed of around 1/250., if you're using HSS to allow higher shutter speeds when using fill flash outdoors,
You and Sean both suggested ND filters to cut the light....that brings me a question so which "grade" or how many stops of ND filter is the most useful that is if I can't get the variable ND genus filter that sean and the others seem to be using??? And Would a Circular POlarizer work for my purpose as well??? If CP will work for my "needs", which do you suggest would be the better route for me to go ND filter or CP Filter?
Last edited by jks_photo; 11-29-2011 at 02:10 AM.
The problem with High Speed Sync is that you lose a significant amount of flash power as your shutter speed gets faster. I prefer Neuro's solution; I use monolights combined with a variable ND filter on the lens to allow for ample flexibility to work beneath the camera's max sync speed. Using the combo, I can shoot with a relatively wide aperture in bright sunlight at or below 1/250 second while still using power-sucking light modifiers. It's bulky, and time consuming to set up, but the flexibility of creating exactly the shot I want makes it worthwhile to me.
Note: An ND filter not only blocks ambient light, but it blocks your flash output too. That means you need more powerful flashes to make up for the light not reaching the camera.
I'm someone who could use HSS on wireless triggers, i've been outside photographing my pet chickens lately, speedlite mounted on the ground pointing roughly where they are on its widest zoom setting (so i'm wasting power flooding a space bigger than I need anyway), then pointing at them with a variety of lenses, mostly 85/1.8 while either lying on the ground or standing up. I could just mount the flash on the camera, but the shadows don't look as good and my hands/arms get sore carrying that lot after a while.
But then, i've got a 10m off-camera curly cord. It means I can't use the onboardffboard flash ratio setting, but it gives me the high shutter speeds I want.
I'm only playing around, so i'm not going to spend money on anything, so it works. I know wireless-triggers are nice and useful, but if you really really need offboard HSS only very rarely, can you not use a long cord or three?
James, considering that the higher end and more expensive flash triggers normally offer much more than just HSS, you might want to look at the rest of the specs. For example, the Pocket Wizards Flex TT5s offer HSS, but they also offer ETTL, multiple flash ETTL, control from camera, multiple frquency settings, etc---if you need these other functions, then it would probably be worth the cost. If all you need or think you need is just a basic flash trigger, then the less expensive ones may be the right choice for you. My suggestion is don't make a decision based on one feature, look at all the features of the devices, then decide which one is appropriate for you.
Good luck
Bob
hi bob,
Thaks for your input... Yes i am aware that most triggers offering HSS also offer ETTL and a myraid of other features, ETTL for me was most enticing. After doing my research though and hearing from guys who use non ETTL triggers, it seems that ETTL is not a "necessity". Honestly, I always wanted ETTL triggers but their cost is a huge reason why I haven't gotten them yet. Also from my understanding [which is "very limited" that is saying it nicely] ETTL works in a way where the flash gets data from the camera and lens regarding shot settings like ISO speed Shutter speed and Aperture and distance from subject as "measured" by the lens.Using all these data the flash determines the "appropriate" flash output power to get the proper exposure...right?
How will ETTL then, work with ETTL flash triggers when for example I am say around 8 feet from my subject, so the lans will send info to flash that subject is 8 feet away, but since i have wireless flash triggers I setup my flash to be just say 4feet on the left side of my subject. Won't this result in an over exposed shot since the flash will be outputting for 8 feet distance instead of 4 feet??
AS i said i'm not really sure if i'm correct in my understanding of this. any clarifications would be highly appreciated and would surely help me in making the right choice. thanks
E-TTL does use subject distance, but much of the exposure calculation is based on the pre-flash.
I just shot a family gathering in a room with a pair of 430EX II's on Justin clamps, bounced off the ceilings, triggered with PocketWizards (Mini TT1 and 2x Flex TT5s) using E-TTL. Exposures were perfect.
Yep, What Neuro Said---I don't understand all of the electronics, but ETTL just seems to work---Regardless of Distance to subject. I commonly use ETTL for fill flash when shooting birds or other wildlife, I just reduce the the exposure by 2 1/3 stops---gives me perfect fill without over exposing the subject in relation to the background---
Also, I am not familiar with other triggers, but the pocket wizards specifically state to conduct a test shot first, which tells me that it is actually measuring the light, not simply calculating distances, flashpower etc.
Bob
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