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Mark,


When shootin inRAW the color space you have your camera set to is moot. The in-camera choice is for in-camera jpeg and thumbnail processing only. When you process with DPP you will have the option of saving the jpeg with either sRGB, Adobe RGB, Apple RGB, Wide Gamut RGB, or ColorMatch RGB. There is a check box on save to embed the ICC profile into the jpeg. If you had Adobe color space chosen in camera, more than likely DPP will embed that profile in the developed image.


I do everything in sRGB unless it is a specifically difficult photo where sRGB will not render the colors correctly. That happens because the color gamut is not wide enough to represent the actual color.99.9% of the time my RAW converter SilkyPix renders the color in sRGB just fine. I do not work a lot with DPP so I can't comment too much on that program.


The reason I choose sRGB 99.9% of the time is because that is the color space developed by Microsoft and Hewlett Packard as the industry standard for color processing. If you are in this PC and HP printer camp as I am it makes sense to stick with that color space. I use adoramapix for all pro-style printing but use a HP D7560 4 color photo printer for everything else. I have compared the HP output to Ritz and find I like the HP reds a lot better. The blues are a bit over the top but at &lt;24 cents a 4x6 and the freedom to print borderless 4x6, 5x7, It makes a great proving tool before shipping print jobs to adoramapix. Adoramapix uses sRGB and specificallly states that no other color spaces are used. I have to say that I cannot see any difference between their ouput and the output from my HP.


I spent over two years working on Madisons path. It's way to expensive and for me personally wasnot worth it. Using the color sliders (in-monitor)or display driver sliders (windows display properties) adjust the red, green, blue values until white, grey and black are as neutral as you can get them compared to a physical in hand grey card or Spyder Cube like color target. If you have a Gretag Color Chart (it's a lot less expensive than Spyder 3 or Color monkey) Take a photo of it with your camera in good light (preferably 5600 Kelvin studio or daylight) Using DPP defaults, set style to neutral, standard, landscape, etc. and look at the color chart vs. monitor to see what is the most accurate overall color rendering. Process3 or 4styles to jpeg and print using a windows based graphics program. Or send that photo or a set of photos off to Walgreen/Whoever for 4x6s. Compare them with the Gretag color target and see what the results are. How close is the monitor to those results? By tweaking a little you can get close enough to get super and resonably accurate results. Just pick up a calendar or post card from your local gift shop. Do you really think that scene photographed actually llooked like that? NOT!! The greens are vibrantly etherial and the sky is so dark it looks purple. That's what I like to call the polarized velvia look.


Madison, I'm not into arguing here but I do have a fun challenge for you and anyone else using color managment in their workflow. Open Adobe Photoshop, start new image, 4x6 300 DPI is fine. Pick White 255,255,255 as the main, Blue 0,0,255 as background. Using the gradient tool, paint a horizontal gradient from left to right. What do you see? Print a photo of this gradient and compare. Take a photo with your camera of the gradient photo and compare in post to the original. Sample the colors as they vary from white to blue. What are the results? This is one of the sole reasons I gave up on color management. It's not simple, it's not easy, I spent hours on the phone with datacolor, I even got to e-mail and talk directly to Dana Gregory who is consider by most as the industry guru on the topic. I have been liberated in my photography to shoot and print and accept the results. I no longer stare sleepless at print after print wondering when I was going to get every color on the test print to match up. I have become accustomed to proofing with my cheap HP, adjusting in PS or SilkyPix as needed and getting on with my life. My clients, what few there are, have never complained. Thank goodness I don't make my living as a photographer.


So I humbly submit that unless you're a professional photographer, print maker, publisher, etc, relying on color accuracy to make your daily bread, shoot sRGB and stay away from spyders.
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Chuck
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