Quote Originally Posted by canoli
When I meter this shot (regardless of mode) and the EV graph's indicator is in the middle, at zero, that tells me...what exactly?

This tells you that the camera's exposure system is going to give you what it sees as a proper exposure level based on the chosen metering mode (evaluative, centre-weighted, spot, etc. ). For spot metering, the "proper" exposure level is based on a small area dead centre in the frame.


Quote Originally Posted by canoli
is it saying, "Shoot at this exposure to capture the scene as close to reality as possible."

Not always. Imagine you are at a wedding, shooting a man wearing a black tuxedo in a garden. If the camera where to meter based on the exposure level on the tux itself, the camera can get fooled into blowing the highlights of the image. Same goes for the opposite - Imagine shooting a white wedding dress. If you were to spot meter on the dress, the camera will think "Wow! Super bright! Better get a faster shutter speed..." and the image could potentially come out underexposed.





There are a few things you can do if the camera's metering does not coincide with your vision or the real light level of the scene:



  • Change the exposure value to compensate for over/underexposure - Most likely the fastest and easiest way to control the camera's exposure level
  • Switch to Manual mode - I frequently use trial and error when if I have a minute to set up my shot. I check what exposure level the camera will give me in Aperture Priority, and then I dial in this exposure in Manual mode. From there I can change all of the parameters as I like and adjust exposure until I find it's what I'm looking for. I frequently do this when I'm faced with a tricky exposure situation, say, a shot containing a lot of water reflection, a black suit, or a white dress.
  • Use Flash
  • Shoot HDR



I find that I use the frist two options the most. Many times, you may not be able to shoot with flash, like in a church. Or perhaps you don't have the time or a tripod to bracket exposures.


Quote Originally Posted by canoli
Is the EV graph really only useful to JPG shooters?


I'm pretty sure. You do mean the exposure value "line" (-2 -1 0 +1 +2), right? Not the histogram?


I always rely on the EV, even when shooting RAW.