Quote Originally Posted by Sean Setters


When are we going to see a model shoot with that thing?



Well Ahlea is over me photographing her so it could be a few days. Saturday I actually have a candle lighting ceremony to shoot and this lens is written all over it. I have some work to do for a modeling agency coming up in the next week too.





Quote Originally Posted by Mark Elberson


Wow!!! I am seriously jealous :-( $1,900 on a lens...no wonder that poor dog has an old beat-up ball ;-)


That DoF is sureal. Talk about making your subject pop! I think this lens would be amazing for weddings. Maybe I'll start an 85mm f/1.2<span style="color:#ff0000;"]Lfund and dump a couple hundred bucks from each wedding I shoot...maybe by 2012 I could buy one ;-)


I can't wait to see what else you do with this setup. Keep them coming Keith!



Mark,


I think this would be a phenomenal wedding lens. I was pleasantly surprise at the AF. I read so much about how slow it is, but I think once you are use to it there isn't anything you couldn't shoot reliably with it. I will admit manual focus is weird. I don't care that the power needs to be on or that you don't have full time manual focus but the undampened ring is a little squirrelly.


Oh and that ball is only a week old. That dog wants to play ball all the time. Also listen to peety, he is dead on.








Quote Originally Posted by weclickyoupick.com


Keith,


I have this lense also....and feel that I may need a micro adjustment. I've never done this before. How do you shoot the images from one setting to the next. Do you "bench" the camera and shoot the exact same thing.....in the exact same light?....or do you just feel your way through it? I get really sharp images at 1.8 and above.....but 1.2 is hit and miss. Am I just dealingwith learning to work the razor thin DOF? When i do get what seems a sharp part of the image at 1.2....it still doesn't seem as sharp as say at 2.


Thanx in advance,


Jeff



Jeff,


I set the camera on a tripod next to a table, high enough to get a decent oblique angle downward. Then I put a ruler down and focus on a number, take a shot and see if it is in focus. I judge by the amount of lines before and after the number to see if it is dead on. If you get an equal number of lines sharp or equally sharp your lens should dead on. Lock up the mirror and use a remote cord or the 2 second time so you don't get any vibrations. I star with it zeroed out and then go in 5 step increments, reshoot and then adjust accordingly. If you shoot this lens wide open it is a necessity.