Quote Originally Posted by HDNitehawk


But the question is, would this be a logical way to set the mfa. Or in 10x view is it not accurate enough?


If this is not a legitamate way to set the mfa, what would be the best way?

Hmmm, I don't know if it is logical or not----But I have used this method, because like you, I find most of the other methods tedious--and yet haven't seen much difference in the results.---Mostly, I use this to see if AF is way off,in the ball park or right on. --I shoot a 7D and a 100-400 and it is parked on a Gitzo 3541--IS off. When shooting close, say 10-50 feet, Everything seems right on both AF and live view x10, but at distant or small subjects, I find the live view x10 shows some type of"electronic vibration"where it moves in and out of focus however so slightly---You can just sit there and watch it do this withAF andIS turned offand hands off. So, with distant objects, I can't seem to get a good manual focus in the liveview x10 nor when I autofocus then look at live view x10----My conclusion, with close objects and my rig, this seems to work, but with distant objects, I can't see enough detail to determine what is really in focus and what isn't because it changes slightly.


After reading Bryans method of getting good ISO 12233 shots I realized just how much effort it takes to get the very best shot your equipment will allow.So I am planning tofollow his example of Multiple shots.My plan is to go with the AF adjustment setting that gives me the best keeper rate after 15 or 20 shots at each setting (start with increments of 5, +/- 15, then when I get that narrowed down, go to increments of 1 until the best "hit percentage is achieved"------Very time consuming and very tediuous-----Now to find the time to do it. [:S].


I don't know if this answered your question, but hopefully my experience with this method may shed some light.


Good Luck,


Bob