You're welcome.
Close to it. Engineers measure dynamic range from the clipping point down to where SNR reaches 1:1, which can be 11.5 stops on many cameras. But 1:1 is *very* noisy. Noisier than many photographers like to use. So how much dynamic range someone will use depends on their personal standard of how much noise is acceptable, especially pattern noise. You can find the "engineering" dynamic range for many cameras here:Originally Posted by canoli
http://dxomark.com/
It's both. You choose where to put it by changing the parameters of the raw converter (if it lets you).Originally Posted by canoli
Basically, it's best to "expose for the developer". In other words, think ahead to how the shot will be converted, then expose for that. If you know that you can move middle gray down, so that you get 2 stops more highlights for a certain contrasty shot, then you'll "underexpose" (compared to the AE meter) by two stops, but in reality you'll get just the exposure you wanted (perfect exposure).Originally Posted by canoli
That's right.Originally Posted by canoli
I think so too.Originally Posted by Jon Ruyle
It does help the "fixed pattern" part of the read noise, which is very beneficial, and it also takes care of the hot/dead pixels, but the random noise actually gets a little worse, because the read noises add in quadrature. If Canon used the technique you mentioned, it wouldn't add noise:Originally Posted by Jon Ruyle
Unfortunately, none of the popular raw converters support dark frame or bias frame subtraction, so I tend to just recommend the long-exp NR.Originally Posted by Jon Ruyle
They have two forms of long exp NR. One is the same as Canon (dark frame subtraction), and can be turned off. The other is an algorithm that looks for hot pixels, and cannot be disabled. This is of course bothersome for astrophotographers, since stars tend to look a lot like hot pixels. There is a cumbersome workaround, though: if you *enable* long exp NR, then turn off the camera in the middle of its dark frame, it will cancel the dark frame subtraction, cancel the hot pixel killing software, but still save the light frame. Turning off the camera after every frame is too much work for me, though.Originally Posted by Jon Ruyle




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