Let's Talk Humming Birds

[Bill W]

Bob....first let me say; I share your obsession w/HBs, Ruby Throated HBs to be specific (that's all we have in New England, though there are occasional interlopers).


My equipment; 40D, 100-400, tripod, TC-80N3 release and a cut piece of wire coat hanger w/a business card attached.


Size; heavy crop and 100% enlargement











The HBs feed w/a a consistent pattern; sip, back out (2 to 3 inches) from source, in for another sip, back out....repeated a few times before leaving.


Set up; approximately 10 feet from feeder, attach business card to feeder (only 2 feeder ports available), live view focus on card then remove. Natural light, AV, shutter speed no lower than 200, keeping aperture no lower than 8 (as high as 13), ISO to keep shutter above 200 and metering close to center. I constantly check light to ensure staying w/in these settings. AI servo, high speed. I don't try to freeze the wings.


Flash; 580 EX ll, I only use this in the lowest of light situations. I posted some results earlier (search Bill W) asking for suggestions to handle the light wash out in their eyes. I needed to do a lot of PS to make it acceptable.


High frame rates; I find some of my 2nd and 3rd captures are better than the first.


Visits; I get 2 or 3 visits an hour in a garden specifically set up for HBs and butterflies. Boy, you're lucky!


Lighting; constantly checking and experimenting.


Food; 3.5 to 1, sugar and water, constantly changing feeder and contents to maintain cleanliness.


Shooting; PATIENCE!! Be flexible w/settings, experiment.


They are a challenge and just plain fun to watch.


Regards


Bill

[HiFiGuy1]

I just had an idea about food for the hummingbirds. Would you think it would be good to have a diluted honey solution? That would seem to be nearer to their natural food, which is flower nectar, no?


Bob,


I do want to hear the "secret formula" that your wife uses, too!





Also, since I am in the lens research mode right now (well fine, always), and I see that you guys are using 100-400 zooms racked out to 400, would I be better off going for the extra sharpness of a 400 prime like the f/5.6? Or is the versatility of the zoom so much better that it overcomes any sharpness advantage of the prime in this instance? Keep in mind I am NOT looking at the 400 f/2.8. []

[Bill W]

HiFiGuy;


Never use honey and here's why;


A honey water solution served up in hummingbird feeders can quickly become toxic and deadly.
Honey rapidly ferments and also cultures a deadly bacterium. Contrary
to popular belief, honey is not "more natural" than the cane sugar that
is sold as white sugar. Honey has been chemically altered by honey
bees: it is flower nectar and whatever ever else the honey bee
ingested, digested, and spit back out again. Honey is nothing like the sucrose found in flower nectar and white sugar.


Plain white table sugar dissolved in water in a
four-to-one solution is about as close to real flower
nectar as you can get.



Here's a link if you want to read up on feeding HBs;


http://www.hummingbirds.net/feeders.html


100-400 lens; I enjoy the versatility, this lens is on my camera 90% of the time when I'm outdoors.....I even use it for landscapes at sunrise and sunset.


Concerning the sharpness, the prime will always be sharper, but my capture above (w/my eyes and monitor) is sharp enough for me....and remember the photo is enlarged 100%.


Regards


Bill

[HiFiGuy1]

HiFiGuy;


Never use honey and here's why;


A honey water solution served up in hummingbird feeders can quickly become toxic and deadly. Honey rapidly ferments and also cultures a deadly bacterium. Contrary to popular belief, honey is not "more natural" than the cane sugar that is sold as white sugar. Honey has been chemically altered by honey bees: it is flower nectar and whatever ever else the honey bee ingested, digested, and spit back out again. Honey is nothing like the sucrose found in flower nectar and white sugar.


Plain white table sugar dissolved in water in a four-to-one solution is about as close to real flower nectar as you can get.


Here's a link if you want to read up on feeding HBs;


[url="http://www.hummingbirds.net/feeders.html]http://www.hummingbirds.net/feeders.html[/url]


100-400 lens; I enjoy the versatility, this lens is on my camera 90% of the time when I'm outdoors.....I even use it for landscapes at sunrise and sunset.


Concerning the sharpness, the prime will always be sharper, but my capture above (w/my eyes and monitor) is sharp enough for me....and remember the photo is enlarged 100%.


Regards


Bill
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Bill,


Thanks for the quick education! I definitely don't want to harm the little beauties, so I'll avoid the honey. I still want to get the "secret recipe" from Bob just to see what he's talking about.

[bob williams]

OK, OK, the secret recipe isn't really that secret, but works very well in moderation---Remember the birds still need the nutrition of flowers---but occasionally if you want just a little more activity around the feeder---Try a 50/50 mix of sugar and water. Make sure you heat the water first so the sugar completely dissolves--then load up that feeder. Also make sure you empty and refill the feeder regularly because that much sugar will draw buggs, bees etc. At the moment we have to refill the feeders every day. In the early morning and late evening we may have 15-20 birds hitting the feeders. Just for the birds health, I wouldn't recommend doing this more than once or twice a week---Maybe one of our birds experts could shed some light on whether or not this is too unhealthy for the birds??

[bob williams]

Bill, Thanks again for the education--Like you my 100-400 is on my camera most of the time---but that kind of sharpness has eluded me. I have tried several different things to impprove it, (Including sending the lens back to canon and in-camera microadjustment) but I am just not seeing those kind of results---I'll continue to practice---





Thanks





Bob

[Bill W]

Bob.....I to had my doubts about my 100-400 when I first started shooting w/it. But after talking to some folks that use the 100-400, I discovered it wasn't the lens, it was the guy using it.


It's taken practice (lots of shots) and, like HBs, patience.....I'm still not satisfied w/my percentage of keepers, but hey, I'm retired (yeah, I had to rub it in) what else is there to do....oh yeah, cycling, golf, skiing, fishing and the list keeps growing much to my wife's chagrin. LOL


I'm going to mix up a new batch for the HBs tomorrow morning at 50/50 and I'll let you know if I get an increase in visits.


BTW....keep an eye on Sinh Nhut Nguyen's (Nate) work and tips.


Regards


Bill

[Fast Glass]

If youplan toshoot primarilybirdsI think you will be better served by the prime, like you said it will be racked out to 400mm 99% and it does better with extenders. Might as well gain the sharpness of the prime in your situation.


But that'smy $0.02. []

[Sinh Nhut Nguyen]

I shoot hummers in the spring, starting from January to mid April here in So Cal. When I arrive at the location I usually walk around and pay attention fromfar awayto which flower the hummers frequent a lot and then I wait at that spot. The bird will fly away at first, but after a while it will come back. My primary lens is the 400 f/5.6L, next spring I'll try an extension tube with this to get closer than 11.5 ft





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[bob williams]

Ok Bill, Enough Showing off. Those pics are great, and now I am envious. I have avoided the high frame rates because the flash won't keep up, with your advice and the advice of others I'll readjust my technique and see what pops up.


Sorry for the late reply, I have been tied up with work.


Thanks,





Bob