Amazing thread, love the effort put into this. I have always been awed by strobits, and i've been wanting to get into it for a very long time now. This may help me find my way. [H]
Amazing thread, love the effort put into this. I have always been awed by strobits, and i've been wanting to get into it for a very long time now. This may help me find my way. [H]
Great job Sean. Your help is much appreciated. Now people can come to one single thread. I look forward to your follow up.
Might I suggest links on this thread to places for getting gear? (if that is allowed?)
Originally Posted by Cozen
My original intent was to put all the info in a single thread. However, since there is so much information, I may actually span its entirety over a few threads (maybe 4?) and provide links to each thread in all of them. Have it set up like chapters in a book where you can go straight to the chapter you want.
I could put some more links in if you want. I provided some links throughout the post, but if you want them all bundled in a single place in the thread I suppose I could do that. Is that what you want? Or did you want to suggest your own places?
Sean
I remember you stating that the Vivtar 285 could only be turned down to 1/8th I think. I can not find where I saw your comment. I have several 285s and one 283 myself. I remember there was an accessory that you could replace the auto sensor on the 283 with a Vivtar VP-1 to manually adjust the power out as follows: 1/64, 1/32, 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, and full power. Here is a link to the discontinued item but maybe you can find on e-bay.
Vivitar VP-1
Mark
Mark
<p style="CLEAR: both"]The Vivitar 285HV skips 1/8. It can be set to 1/1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/16.
Sean
I remember you stating that the Vivtar 285 could only be turned down to 1/8th I think. I can not find where I saw your comment. I have several 285s and one 283 myself. I remember there was an accessory that you could replace the auto sensor on the 283 with a Vivtar VP-1 to manually adjust the power out as follows: 1/64, 1/32, 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, and full power. Here is a link to the discontinued item but maybe you can find on e-bay.
[url="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/61614-REG/Vivitar_238278_VP_1_Vari_Power_Adapter.html]Vivitar VP-1[/url]
Mark
<div style="clear: both;"]</div>
Yep, I thought I included that in the original post. I didn't include the information on the VP-1, though, because it's getting very hard to find and it's expensive when you can find it. If you want the light output to be dimmer, move the light source away from the subject or else use an ND filter over top of the flash. Both solutions are easier and cheaper. :-)
Alrighty then. Second part is done. I updated this thread with the link.
I vote we get Sean's trifecta of introductory strobist posts to be sticky posts. Or a new category called "informative". It could be almost like a guest post on DigitalPhotograhySchool.com.
hehe...I link to it occasionally, but I typically don't bump it up.
I'm on board! Saving for radio poppers and already using four 580 II's - I've had some success with the optical triggering of OCF's, but I've also seen high speed sync go bye bye requiring less than 1/200th to get the shot. I tried to recreate the problem tonight but had no problem shooting fully fast and wide (f/1.8 1/8000th iso 50).
Flash groups and camera control are working nicely. Also of note I have improvised a soft box by strobing into a continuous light source that is shaped like a soft box and acts as the modeling lamp. This provides some versatility (and $avings) for me and clears the floor of two light stands.
Hate pictures of my self but for educational purposes both my first strobist test and said DIY soft box results are below. Looking forward to learning and sharing more.
-Shea
F/4.5 1/6400th iso 50 - Full sunlight on foliage behind me:
f/4.5 1/6400 iso 50 - gold zip disc opposite for bounce fill - crazy huge catchlights:
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote