I don't know what the author is basing it on, but he is at least partially correct.Originally Posted by canoli
No, and I don't think that's what the author meant in your book. I think he meant that it gives you a more accurate histogram, so that you can change the exposure and get a more optimal exposure for raw.Originally Posted by canoli
That's all correct.Originally Posted by canoli
As you said, the in-camera histogram is based on the preview jpeg, which is often quite different than the actual raw histogram. If you want to try to make the histogram more similar to the raw file, there are many settings you must change:Originally Posted by canoli
Picture profile (tone curve, saturation, contrast, etc.)
White balance (this is a *big* one, research "UniWB")
Color space
Auto lighting optimizer
Highlight Tone Priority
Exactly what the settings need to be depends on each camera model. Some are more accurate with sRGB (like your 40D), others with AdobeRGB. If you have the contrast too high, it will make the histogram clip even when the raw file isn't clipping. If you have the contrast too low, it will make the histogram show no clipping, even when the raw file is clipping. What you want to do is find the settings that most closely approximate the raw histogram. Usually this means a picture profile with no tone curve and contrast set to 0 (not -4 or +4.
Hope that helps




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