Usage Question on a Neutral Density Filter

[George Slusher]

Cory:


You shouldn't need an ND filter to do this. Just choose your ISO low enough that you can have a slower shutter speed with a wider aperture.


Here's a way that you can figure out if a ND filter will help, using just what you have. Your circular polarizers will lose at least 1 stop, probably more. That would be equivalent to an ND2 or ND 0.9x. Stack them (the slim filter will have to go on top) and you'll get roughly what an ND4 would do. (If you're observant, you may notice that the color changes when you rotate one polarizer relative to the other. The density may also change a bit.) If you want an even more dramatic test, put the Kaeseman CPL on the 24-105mm or 70-200mm on your camera. Mount the camera on a tripod and set up your shot as wickerprints suggested. Take the slim CPL and flip it over, so that the threads point AWAY from the lens. Now, hold the CPL in front of the lens + CPL. You vary the density by rotating the CPL in your hand. You can't do this by stacking them the usual way, as you can with linear polarizers. CPLs have 2 layers--a linear polarizer and a "quarter-wave plate." The quarter-wave plate essentially "unpolarizes" the light so that auto-focus SLRs will work properly.


Stacked in the usual way would put the layers:

1. Linear polarizer
2. quarter-wave plate
3. Linear polarizer
4. quarter-wave plate

Thus, the light coming to the second CPL is essentially "unpolarized." If you reverse the top filter, you'll get:

1. quarter-wave plate
2. Linear polarizer
3. Linear polarizer
4. quarter-wave plate

When you rotate one of the polarizers relative to the other, you can go almost all the way to opaque.


If you decide to get one or more ND filters, the ND4 or ND 0.6x, which reduces the light by 2 stops, is usually the one to get. As I said, a CPL can act like an ND filter (with some effect from polarization, of course). Hoya makes very nice ND filters, particularly their Hoya Multicoated (HMC) versions, which are considerably cheaper ($57) than the B+W MRC filters ($103), which, IMO, are greatly overrated. If you want a slim filter, you can get the B+W slim for $113 or the Hoya Pro1 Digital ($122), which is probably a better filter, overall. (If you check on eBay or with , you can get the Kenko Pro 1 filter, which is made by the same company as Hoya, but not sold by US dealers.) However, except for CPLs, the 10-22mm lens doesn't need slim filters. A "regular" filter's ring is about the width of the slim CPL filters. You could also get a cheap set of ND filters (ND2, ND4, ND8) on eBay just for experimental purposes, then get the one or two you decide will work best.

[Cory]

Now there's some food for thought. Heh.


Thanks guys, I'll have to play around with things and see. I hadn't even thought of stacking my polarizers to get, basically, the same effect.

[George Slusher]

Your circular polarizers will lose at least 1 stop, probably more. That would be equivalent to an ND2 or ND 0.9x.

[:$] (Insert sound of me dope-slapping myself!)


That should be "ND 0.3x." ND 0.9x would be an ND 8 (3 stops). At least, later, I got ND 8 = ND 0.6x correct.