Unfortunately, "(regardless of mode)" doesn't work here - in automatic modes, it shows you what exposure compensation you've dialed in. In manual mode(s), it's showing you that the scene is being exposed correctly (if you're at base ISO...lots of DB lessons are about to come in).
We're a Canon/Profoto family: five cameras, sixteen lenses, fifteen Profoto lights, too many modifiers.
sorry, yeah - let's dismiss auto mode - any of the "creative" modes.
but I'm okay with what I know. I shoot RAW anyway, so the EV graph doesn't do much for me. I may be wrong - and I'd love to know what you guys think - but I go strictly by the histogram, ETTR (shutter speed/aperture adjustments - bumping up ISO only if I can't handhold the shot) and then do what I want in post.
Once I start shooting JPGs I may need to understand what the meter is showing, but till then I won't worry too much about it I guess.
Thanks All!
I meant do you use any automatic mode like P, TV, AV? Because When I'm using AV I just take test shot and look at the histogram, but in manual mode I have to use this “EV graph” (build in light meter) before first shot. Right?
Originally Posted by canoli
Obviously there can be a big difference between the meter and the histogram. However, there should be a relationship between the meter and the histogram (such that if you boost the meter by a stop, the histogram will shift right by a stop), and it can be a useful gauge when shooting in manual.
The other comment I felt compelled to make is that your ETTR/ITTR strategy is good, but do leave yourself flexibility to ITTR if you want a fast shutter speed. You probably do this anyway, I just know that I'm having to remind myself that wide-open apertures (and the corresponding fast shutter speeds) aren't always the way to go (I shot some kids on zip lines Saturday, and learned that 1/60th was the answer).
We're a Canon/Profoto family: five cameras, sixteen lenses, fifteen Profoto lights, too many modifiers.
You are so right, and I appreciate the reminder. For the first 10 months shooting DSLR photos I resisted bumping up the ISO - almost never shot above 200. Naturally I had to throw away tons of shots because of blur. Painful, but I kept doing it, thinking all I needed was a better shooting technique. I was so preoccupied with the dreaded noise I just couldn't bring myself to "ruin" a shot using a higher ISO.
Thankfully I learned (here) it wasn't the high ISO, it was the lack of light causing the excessive noise. Once I got past that I found ISO 800 and even 1600 weren't bad at all, they just need a proper exposure.
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