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  1. #1
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    Re: Having a brain fart with ISO



    Quote Originally Posted by andnowimbroke
    I know I'm missing sumthung.

    You're not missing anything, Greg -- you've got it right.


    The people who say "increase exposure compensation to get less noise at high ISO" are really just saying "use a lower ISO to get less noise", though most of them don't realize it.


    If you take an "ISO 100" raw file that is 2 stops underexposed, then boost it +2 in post, the resulting JPEG file is actually ISO 400 (according to the ISO standard).


    If you take an "ISO 1600" raw file that is 2 stops overexposed, then cut it -2 in post, the resulting JEPG file is actually ISO 400.


    In other words, the ISO setting of the raw camera file and the resulting JPEG file can be two totally different things.


    The best result is to ETTR then ITTR: expose to the right, then ISO to the right. That is, first increase exposure as much as possible (while avoiding unwanted motion blur, thin DOF issues, etc.), then, if you still have room on the right side of your histogram, increase ISO as much as possible (up to the highest useful limit of the camera, which is 1600 on most Canons). The first part is most important, but the second can have slight benefits too (especially from ISO 100 to 400).

  2. #2
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    Re: Having a brain fart with ISO



    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Browning


    You're not missing anything, Greg -- you've got it right.


    The people who say "increase exposure compensation to get less noise at high ISO" are really just saying "use a lower ISO to get less noise", though most of them don't realize it.


    If you take an "ISO 100" raw file that is 2 stops underexposed, then boost it +2 in post, the resulting JPEG file is actually ISO 400 (according to the ISO standard).


    If you take an "ISO 1600" raw file that is 2 stops overexposed, then cut it -2 in post, the resulting JEPG file is actually ISO 400.


    In other words, the ISO setting of the raw camera file and the resulting JPEG file can be two totally different things.


    The best result is to ETTR then ITTR: expose to the right, then ISO to the right. That is, first increase exposure as much as possible (while avoiding unwanted motion blur, thin DOF issues, etc.), then, if you still have room on the right side of your histogram, increase ISO as much as possible (up to the highest useful limit of the camera, which is 1600 on most Canons). The first part is most important, but the second can have slight benefits too (especially from ISO 100 to 400).


    Daniel


    If I am understanding you right. If I am in AV or TV mode and I set the exposure compensation a bit higher or lower, that it is adjusting the ISO settings to over expose or underexpose. For some reason I thought it was adjusting shutter speed. Since the change is displayed like the shutter.


    Rick



  3. #3
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    Re: Having a brain fart with ISO



    Quote Originally Posted by HDNitehawk


    If I am understanding you right. If I am in AV or TV mode and I set the exposure compensation a bit higher or lower, that it is adjusting the ISO settings to over expose or underexpose. For some reason I thought it was adjusting shutter speed. Since the change is displayed like the shutter.


    That's not exactly what I meant -- I'll try to clarify [].


    There is a difference between the ISO "setting" on the camera (and raw file) and the actual ISO of the JPEG after it has been through post production. When you set the camera to ISO 400 and Av 4.0, the exposure compensation will not change the ISO setting. But if you set EC to +2, then do -2 in DPP, the resulting file *will* have a different ISO than the one on the camera. See what I mean?



    <meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="content-type" />
    Camera settings (ISO 100, Av 4.0, EC +0) + Post production settings (0 EC) = actual ISO of the JPEG file (ISO 100)


    Camera settings (ISO 400, Av 4.0, EC +2) + Post production settings (-2 EC) = actual ISO of JPEG file (ISO 100)


    In those two examples, the camera ISO settings were different (one was ISO 400), but the true ISO of the JPEG file is the same ISO 100 for both.


    As another example, ISO 1600 with +2 EC has *less* noise than ISO 800 with 0 EC, when both are printed at the same brightness. But that's because using ISO 1600 with +2 EC results in an exposure index that is actually ISO 400.


    Hope that helps,

  4. #4
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    Re: Having a brain fart with ISO



    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Browning


    Hope that helps,

    LOTS! Thanks to you and the others that responded. It is greatly appreciated


    g
    Words get in the way of what I meant to say.

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