My frustration level is at its peak right now!

[banman1]

Hi all,


Denise i was going to come on here and ask a lot of the same questions u did and after my saturday shooting the eagles arround here i to was a little bummed. I also took a lot of picts and looking at them on the cam thought i hade a lot of great shots only to come home and put them on my comp and was not impressed.Ive been useing the 100-400 l for about a year and at times i love it and at times im not sure whats going on.I bought it for shooting airshows mostly and wildlife like the eagles and hawks arround here.I know some people on here have said u need to watch for soft copys of this lens and i think mabe thats what i have but then i start to think its the cam to.Ive tryed a lot of different thing to see if its me or the cam or lens and im not sure but at least we r not wasteing film when the picts do not come out great lol.Ive been thinking about upgradeing to a new 7d from my 50d but im not sure if its a big enough upgrade so im waiting to see what comes out next.oh well keep the faith as they say lol 1 day we will figure it all out.Here r a few of my shots from saturday a few of a female eagle shotfrom about 100yrds from the tree and it was about 75ft up and the hawk was just flying rite over my truck about 100ft away......all with 50d and 100-400 l at 400mm eagle shots r f7.1 1/800 iso 100 hawk shots r f7.1 1/640 iso 160.......





thanks Rod


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[Kayaker72]

Hi Denise,


I am an engineer, so I naturally think in bullet points....weird, I know:

• I like your pictures, in particular, the last one.
• Thanks for posting. Seriously. This is something l love about this forum. Out of your post, I now have several new ideas to try. Thanks[]
• My one comment to Rich's list: my first time outthis winterI used evaluative metering. For me, it exposed the background (usually sky or clouds) better than the ABE (and often, we are trying to expose the belly side of the eagle). From my first trip, I thought most of the ABEs were under exposed by 1.5-2 stops. I've since switched to manual mode and use my first few pictures to dial in exposure on the ABEs and then just leave (or make minor adjustments)the settings in manual. Now, most of my pics do need to be adjusted for exposure, but usually less than 1/3 of a stop one direction or another, but I often am blowing out the background. Please let me know if anyone sees a problem with this method.
• To keep with others hunting analogy, I am beginning to view a great picture of an ABEs as an ellusive trophy. Some game makes it easy....some, very difficult.

Banman1....Others here are much better at evaluating photosthan I am,but I am actually wondering if these were taken mid-day and this is a "harsh light" issue.


Brant

[Richard Lane]

• My one comment to Rich's list: my first time outthis winterI used evaluative metering. For me, it exposed the background (usually sky or clouds) better than the ABE (and often, we are trying to expose the belly side of the eagle). From my first trip, I thought most of the ABEs were under exposed by 1.5-2 stops. I've since switched to manual mode and use my first few pictures to dial in exposure on the ABEs and then just leave (or make minor adjustments)the settings in manual. Now, most of my pics do need to be adjusted for exposure, but usually less than 1/3 of a stop one direction or another, but I often am blowing out the background. Please let me know if anyone sees a problem with this method
• Brant

Regarding spot metering, I feel that when you have a short focal length and you are shooting action photography or BIF that are moving quickly and in an undetermined manner, it is more difficult to use spot metering than evaluative metering, since you have a good chance of missing your target. I do think that a white sky with clouds can wreak havoc on metering and in that case I would add exposure compensation or EV to the equation. I think that for stationary subjects that have a busy background or are backlit, spot metering would be the better choice.


If the sky background is blue, and the bird is black and white, the evaluaitive metering should do a pretty good job, of splitting the difference, since a light blue sky (is similar to an 18% gray card) is somewhat in between the black and white bird. As suggested above this also works better with longer focal lengths where the bird fills more of the frame.


Using manual mode to dial in exposure is very good including; aperture, shutter speed and ISO.


Keep in mind that there are many ways to get a good exposure, and you should use what works best for you in any given situation. I'm also continuing to learn all of the time as well.





Rich

[Bill W]

Rod;


First let me say all of your pix are of hawks....red tail, I believe. Adult female and male American Bald Eagles (ABE) look exactly the same w/the female being slightly larger. Juveniles are mostly dark w/out the white w/brown bars (note perched shot and overhead shot...same chest markings) on the chest. Brant and I have posted plenty of juvie examples.


Concerning the exif you posted; I become a little nervous when I

[elmo_2006]

Hi Denise...


I came across a site whereby a 7D user had specified his parameters that he had used and seem to work flawlessly. I do not own said camera but maybe you can give them a go:


CFn I 1=0


CFn I 2=0


CFn II all disabled


CFn III 1=Slow


CFn III 2=0 (priority is put on focusing)


CFn III 3=1


CFn III 4=0 (unless light is bad then I switch to 1)


CFn III 6=Most of the time is single point for BIF i switch to single with expanded


CFn III 7=1


CFn III the rest set to what prefrences you want


CFn IV 1=default


CFn IV 2=default


the rest set to default


Then there is this linkthat discusses AI Servo and how to make the most of it for birds in flight. Actually I think I got this lnk from a member of this forum.


Good luck and happy *hunting*

[Bill W]

elmo....thanks for posting this link. I