Here are a couple I did yesterday and the day before that. This is Cologne, Germany.
Here are a couple I did yesterday and the day before that. This is Cologne, Germany.
Loving the third one Maloner. It's really great.
I haven't shot many HDR since the tread began but here are 2 from yesterday that I am pleased with. Hope you enjoy. They are from the Chicago Botanic Garden,
Regenstein Center
Japanese Garden
Originally Posted by rgravel
Here is one of my first attempt, although I don't know if it can be called HDR since its all done from one file. ACR, CS3, 40D, EF 17-40
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It is a beautiful shot! It seems very natural, just the way our eyes would see it, which is what I am looking to accomplish, too. I have the same camera and lens, and I would like to know how you would do this without having multiple images. Is there some way to simulate under/over-exposure in DPP? IJUST bought the Essentials HDR (thanks Michael James) for their under $50 introductory price, but haven't even gotten the key for the download yet. I have a couple of shots that I think would be candidates, but didn't know about HDR and bracketing when I took them. I don't really care if it is "proper" HDR or not, if the results are like you have shown here.
Why wouldn't a single RAW shot, with copies made to be underexposed and overexposed in a RAW processor, be just as good as multiple shots? Is the reason for having multiple shots to give more sample data to the image processing software?
Also, I am imaginingthe advantage of 7bracketed shots versus 5 or 3 iskind of like having a 14 bit image versus a 12 or 10 bit image. Is that conceptually sort of the right perpective? More for the image information for the processing software to use for decision making?
I'm disturbed that you didn't get the key from them already (software). I really hope these guys didn't vaporize. I sent them an email a couple of weeks ago and didn't get any response (non-critical communication). Keep us posted here when you get it to see if there is some kind of long delay. I'd be less willing to recommend them if that is the case. I got my key in under 48 hours (FYI).
Michael James
http://www.digitalcoastimage.com
More data.
I've shot 9 frames 1EV apart shooting a high DR scene and then tonemapped with all 9 and then pulled frames 2, 4, 6, 8 and just tonemapped 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 which of course are 2EV apart. The difference is a smoother transition in tones. I posted finals somewhere else online about a year ago to show the difference. I should have kept those test images to show here.
I'd imagine for lower DR scenes, it might not matter. But the example scenes I shot were very high DR scenes with blaring sun coming into much darker interiors like the image I've attached. The middle exposure had completely blown out windows and you couldn't see the emerald green and blue water at all and you could barely tell there was furniture on the balcony.
I probably tuned down the outdoors TOO MUCH here because it was a brite sunny day. But this was just a MLS listing for a realtor and I would have retweaked the edit if it was a builder or architect's shot for a portfolio. The realtor's don't pay enough for over editing shots.
When you shoot just one RAW, you only have the range captured in that one shot. Which means that the shadows and highlights will not have a ton of data compared to if you shot three RAWs.
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LOL!! No, I've got it now. When I say JUST, I mean JUST. Like "I-ordered-it-in-another-tab-of-my-browser" just. [] It actually came to me within 5-10 minutes. I haven't had a chance to download it yet, but will do that this afternoon I am sure. I hope they respond to your e-mail. They still have contact stuff on their site. Maybe give that a chance again?
What I would give to have my "half-hearted" processing look half that good! I am excited to start using the Essentials HDR software that you recommended.
I do understand what you are saying about the multiiple images, and I was sort of asking from a devil's advocate perspective. I see where the software can do a better job with more data points, and I certainly understand that the point of HDR is to use the darker areas of the overexposed shots to gain detail, while using thebright areas of the underexposed shotsfor the same purpose.
Since I have a 40D which normally only has three "data points" how far apart would you suggest I bracket them? I think I have 1/3 EV spacing incrementsavailable. Is +1/0/-1 good, or should I go for -2/0/+2, or go for something in between?
I have been giving some thought to overcoming the limitations of the camera by controlling shooting from my PC with the camera on a tripod, and changing on the fly so that Itheoretically have -2, -1 2/3, -1 1/3, -1, -2/3, -1/3, 0, +1/3, +2/3, +1, +1 1/3, +1 2/3, +2. That would be 13 points!!
I need to look, but I think I could do the same thing by 1/2 steps, as well, which may be more than adequate. Actually that would still be nine steps. Would that extra effort be too much sugar for a dime?
EDIT: I just realized what you were saying about the "1EV apart" referred to 1EV per step. So my fractions of an EV per step may be slicing the breada little thin. Again, I need to learn my camera better, butI think it can only do from -2 to +2 without recentering "0".
"It depends"
Unfortunately that is the only answer. Even shooting interiors varies greatly. When shooting a scene that allows light to flood in directly, it could take me 10-12 frames at 1EV per. Some scenes only need 7 frames even though there are windows in the scene and usually because it is woods in frame and no surfaces to bounce light into the property.
Outdoors I usually only need 3-5 frames for 90% of the shots. When I'm standing under a portch with a balcony I might need to go 7 just to bring out the darker shadows within the porch area.
And on a daily basis I'll mix it up. There are times I'll shoot an interior with no windows in frame that has a harsh overhead light that causes deep shadows in the room. Even though I could take one shot and then pull up shadows and bring down highlights in post... it is better to shoot 3-5 frames at either 2/3rds or 1/3rd between each because the colors in the shadows and highlights come out better than pulling them up in say LightRoom. And of course there is less noise in the shadows and less wash out in the highlights.
I can't go +/- a full 2EV. The Nikon D3 allows 9 frames, but a max of 1EV between each. I've shot with Canon's and that 3 AEB annoys me to no end!!!
I also shoot with the Sigma SD14 and it allows 3 frames using AEB and up to +/- 3EV steps and that often is too far apart. I'll use 2 1/3rd as a max when using the SD14. I mostly use the SD14 outdoors so those scenes need less frames anyway and the 3 AEB is usually just enough.
The answer is ... there is no definitive answer.
I've been doing this for almost 3 years and have shot around 400 properties with about 15-20 shots per property. I don't know how many thousand exactly... probably close to 7000. It took me about 1000 or so to really understand which settings to use for which scene right out of the gate. And now I know how to shoot certain scenes while on site that will make my life easier in post.
Michael James
http://www.digitalcoastimage.com
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