The only thing I find crazy is that you think you can improve on your HB shots....seriously Bob, give the rest of us a chance to catch up.....
The only thing I find crazy is that you think you can improve on your HB shots....seriously Bob, give the rest of us a chance to catch up.....
Why shoot at 1/64 if you're trying to eliminate ambient? I can understand wanting to get blur on the wings but ... don't you need ambient for that (or some other continuous/long pulse light)?
I dunno.. after some serious soul searching and existential dialogue, I opted to only go with ONE PCB Einstein and a tt5 trigger for my 430 instead of two Einsteins.. in favor of a 60" LED TV. The decision was a staggering one. It never really occurred to me before that my money could be spent on.. things that aren't photography related! (?) I say there's hope for us!
Adobe, give us courage to edit what photos must be altered, serenity to delete what cannot be helped, and the insight to know the one from the other.
Canon EOS 7D - Canon EF-s 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM - Canon 100mm f/2.8L IS Macro - PCB Einsteins & PW Triggers
@ChadS - I think Bob is trying to eliminate wing blur. I'm guessing that Bob mis-typed in his post - he didn't mean "1/64th of a second," he meant 1/64 flash power setting. That's the minimum power setting for the flash. Capacitor-driven strobes don't have variable intensities - when they're on, they're on at 100%; when you use lower power, what you're getting is shorter duration of light - that's needed to eliminate the wing blur (the duration of a full-power flash is too long). So, to overcome ambient light but still maintain the shortest possible flash duration, you need more flashes.
Or a wildly radical approach to capture a hummingbird with no wing blur:
Adobe, give us courage to edit what photos must be altered, serenity to delete what cannot be helped, and the insight to know the one from the other.
Canon EOS 7D - Canon EF-s 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM - Canon 100mm f/2.8L IS Macro - PCB Einsteins & PW Triggers