The only thing I find crazy is that you think you can improve on your HB shots....seriously Bob, give the rest of us a chance to catch up.....
The only thing I find crazy is that you think you can improve on your HB shots....seriously Bob, give the rest of us a chance to catch up.....
Why shoot at 1/64 if you're trying to eliminate ambient? I can understand wanting to get blur on the wings but ... don't you need ambient for that (or some other continuous/long pulse light)?
I dunno.. after some serious soul searching and existential dialogue, I opted to only go with ONE PCB Einstein and a tt5 trigger for my 430 instead of two Einsteins.. in favor of a 60" LED TV. The decision was a staggering one. It never really occurred to me before that my money could be spent on.. things that aren't photography related! (?) I say there's hope for us!
@ChadS - I think Bob is trying to eliminate wing blur. I'm guessing that Bob mis-typed in his post - he didn't mean "1/64th of a second," he meant 1/64 flash power setting. That's the minimum power setting for the flash. Capacitor-driven strobes don't have variable intensities - when they're on, they're on at 100%; when you use lower power, what you're getting is shorter duration of light - that's needed to eliminate the wing blur (the duration of a full-power flash is too long). So, to overcome ambient light but still maintain the shortest possible flash duration, you need more flashes.
Or a wildly radical approach to capture a hummingbird with no wing blur:
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