At the risk of sounding like an echo, I'd agree with starting with the 70-200mm f/2.8L. You really don't need IS all that much--it doesn't help at all with moving subjects, except in panning, but that's a long-standing "disagreement" (read "fight"!) between me and some others. The next step would be the 24-70mm f/2.8L or, maybe better, the 17-55mm f/2.8 IS, which is actually sharper than the 24-70mm L, according to Bryan's review. That would also help in indoor sports where you're closer to the action. Don't even think about any lens f/4 or slower indoors.


Also get a good monopod. A tripod can work, but it is a lot less convenient to use and gets in the way. I put a decent friction-control ballhead (currently a Giottos or my larger Markins M-10) on my monopod, but that's yet another subject of "disagreement." I often need to point the camera down from the grandstands. Without the ballhead, I have to tip the monopod, which isn't very secure. I was at a horse show this spring where an experienced photographer almost lost her Canon 1D Mk II & 70-200mm f/2.8L lens when the foot of her monopod slipped. She caught the camera in time, though she hadn't taken the simple precaution of using the wrist strap on the monopod. (Do that!)


Here's a suggestion to help figure out what you need. Borrow ANY zoom lens (or lenses) with a range of 24-200mm, more or less, even a cheap, slow lens, or take your kit lens and something longer--55-250mm, 70-200mm, even the cheap 70-300mm or 75-300mm lenses. You're going to be checking the focal length, not the exposure. Go to a a game/match in your selected sport and take photos with the lens. Yes, they'll be blurry, but you can see what focal lengths you need. There's not really any way to guess--it's best to experiment.


If your budget allows, also consider at least one faster prime. The length will depend upon what you are shooting. You might consider the 50mm f/1.8 II "Nifty Fifty," for example. It's really cheap ($110 new)
but can save your butt if the lighting is bad. The 50mm f/1.4 is
better, but a lot more expensive ($399). If you're close up, the
old, cheap ($320) 35mm f/2 or Sigma 30mm f/1.4 ($439) can be
very useful. Further back, the 85mm f/1.8 ($439) or it's sibling 100mm
f/2 ($450) will give you an extra stop. (The only easy way to tell the
85mm and 100mm lenses apart is to read the labels!) You may find
these used for a bit less, though the 50mm f/1.4 holds its value quite
well. I paid $335, including the hood.


Here's what I have for shooting indoor horse shows, usually in an arena larger than a basketball court, but smaller than a football field. All are Canon lenses except where noted. I've put them in the rough order of frequency of use:
  1. 70-200mm f/2.8L IS
  2. 17-55mm f/2.8 IS
  3. 85mm f/1.8
  4. 50mm f/1.4 (replaced 50mm f/1.8 II)
  5. 100mm f/2
  6. Sigma 30mm f/1.4 (replaced Canon 35mm f/2)



Yes, I use them all. In our Fairgrounds horse arena, I usually end up with the fast primes, as the lighting is terrible, unless I'm shooting still/slow -moving horses. For jumping, barrel racing & other games, the primes are necessary, even with ISO 1600 or 3200 (which I'd rather not use, as it's quite noisy on my 30D).


For outdoor shows, I could use the same zoom lenses, but I often substitute a 70-200mm f/4L IS for the f/2.8L IS because I have it and it's a lot lighter as well as better quality. I may also carry my 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS lens instead of the 17-55mm f/2.8 IS. I bought both of those before I got the f/2.8 lenses. Occasionally, if the show uses a wide-open course, like cross-country, I haul out my 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS, though that's almost as heavy as the 70-200mm f/2.8L IS and the push-pull zoom is less convenient to use.


Now, if you're really serious [H] about sports photography, you'll end up with these (no EF-S lenses):
  • 400mm f/2.8L IS ($7500)
  • 70-200mm f/2.8L ($1250)
  • 24-70mm f/2.8L ($1380)
  • 16-36mm f/2.8L II ($1550)



and at least two bodies. (I'd say 1D Mk III, but it has autofocus issues. The 1D Mk II might be better, if you can find a used one. Some add a 5D for wide-angle shots, where drive speed isn't critical.) Some would add/substitute a 300mm f/2.8L IS ($4600) and/or 200mm f/2L IS ($5300) for indoor sports like basketball, where 400mm can be too long and maybe add a very wide-angle prime, like a 15mm f/2.8 rectangular fisheye ($700) or 14mm f/2.8L ($2200), for shooting in the melee after the game, when they may be very close to the subjects.


Of course, by then, someone would be paying you to photograph the games and they might provide the gear! [<)]