That was exactly what was going through my mind...different address of course.Originally Posted by ddt0725
Yes...you have lost your mind. We know this because we can identify with your problem, it is just that some of us are still in the denial stage and will not admit our problems yet. Telling us about your situation is counterproductive. It is like going to the local bar and trying to get AA help from the patrons. You have to be outside the bar to get real help.
But...on more of an enabler note. I would think some of the strobist here could tell you how to get this done without a massive daisy chain of 430's. Of course it may involve buying more and better lighting systems. This would of course include lights, triggers, portable power, modifiers and I am sure many other expensive things. ....oh and tell the barkeep to hit me with another shot....
When you get this done we ask you give us a report so we can duplicate what you did.
Good Luck
The only thing I find crazy is that you think you can improve on your HB shots....seriously Bob, give the rest of us a chance to catch up.....
Why shoot at 1/64 if you're trying to eliminate ambient? I can understand wanting to get blur on the wings but ... don't you need ambient for that (or some other continuous/long pulse light)?
I dunno.. after some serious soul searching and existential dialogue, I opted to only go with ONE PCB Einstein and a tt5 trigger for my 430 instead of two Einsteins.. in favor of a 60" LED TV. The decision was a staggering one. It never really occurred to me before that my money could be spent on.. things that aren't photography related! (?) I say there's hope for us!
You do realize you can view your pictures on your new TV? It isn’t a total loss….
Sorry to burst your bubble, but your 7D has an HDMI output port, and your new TV has an HDMI input port, so it IS photography related....
@ChadS - I think Bob is trying to eliminate wing blur. I'm guessing that Bob mis-typed in his post - he didn't mean "1/64th of a second," he meant 1/64 flash power setting. That's the minimum power setting for the flash. Capacitor-driven strobes don't have variable intensities - when they're on, they're on at 100%; when you use lower power, what you're getting is shorter duration of light - that's needed to eliminate the wing blur (the duration of a full-power flash is too long). So, to overcome ambient light but still maintain the shortest possible flash duration, you need more flashes.
Or here is a thought and suggestion for Bob. He could build a shade structure over his feeder to cut out the ambient light. Or perhaps he has already done this.
Thanks Neuro that makes total sense to me. (it would help to know that one of the projects I'm working on is imaging 10 micron particles moving at 100 m/s with micron resolution). What's the time frame of a full strobe? How repeatable is the interval at 1/64 does anyone know? I ask because LEDs can be switched at 1-10 microsecond speeds quite easily (1-10/1,000,000). An array of them soft-box-sized and aimed at the feeder should do the trick. The trick is getting them all to turn on (and off) at the same time. However, this is not really that hard to do.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote