Originally Posted by alex
Start with the f-number that you think will have approximately sufficient depth of field. Then focus using above technique. If the foreground is not within the depth of field, stop down some more and refocus.
Originally Posted by alex
Start with the f-number that you think will have approximately sufficient depth of field. Then focus using above technique. If the foreground is not within the depth of field, stop down some more and refocus.
Thanks Daniel, I never paid much attention to the tables but it appears they are valuable, have you ever checked the tables against the depth of field markings on a lens, I wonder how accurate the markings are against the tables? Time to drag the older lenses out and check this.
Originally Posted by electric eel
I haven't, but I would guess that they are accurate.
Originally Posted by Daniel Browning
Duh. take more than one shot! Thanks again Daniel. I appreciate your advice!
R6 II --- RF 14-35mm f/4L IS --- RF 24-105mm f/4L IS --- RF 70-200mm F4L IS --- RF 100-400mm F5.6-8 IS --- RF 24mm f/1.4L --- RF 600mm f/11
70D --- EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 --- EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS --- EF 70-200mm f/4L IS --- EF 85mm f/1.8
I created a short little lesson about DOF and hyperfocal distance focusing and its benefits.
it can be found here:
http://www.learnslr.com/slr-beginner-guide/digital-slr-learning-guide/hyperfocal-distance
David, this is a helpful tutorial.
On the second picture (night shot), where did you focus, and was the aperture at f/8?
Thanks, I focused approximately six feet away on a subject and then recomposed.
<table width="100%" cellspacing="0" id="Inbox"]
<tbody>
<tr>
<td width="30%" style="font-size: 120%;"]Exposure:</td>
<td style="font-size: 120%;"]20 sec (20)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="30%" style="font-size: 120%;"]Aperture:</td>
<td style="font-size: 120%;"]f/8</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="30%" style="font-size: 120%;"]Focal Length:</td>
<td style="font-size: 120%;"]17 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>ISO Speed:</td>
<td>200</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
Thanks, David.
So, just to be sure I'm understanding what you did, you focused on a subject on the bridge where you were standing, then swung the camera around to recompose the shot, and then took the picture.
Is this correct?
yes, that is correct.... of course for that shot there wasnt' to much all that "close" to me that I needed to do it but i was testing out the quality of focus and sharpness on something further away like the water fall when I focused only 6 feet away.
David, I'm back with another question about this subject, so bear with me.
In focusing on the subject that is X feet away, did you put your camera to manual focus, then recompose and shoot the water fall picture?
I'm trying to envision a situation where I've got to focus on a subject (for example, in AF mode), move the camera around while keeping the focus locked, trying to keep the landscape properly level, etc., without losing the focus lock. In many cases, I'd be using a remote switch, which further ties up my hands.
Could you elaborate on your technique? Thanks.