Total Solar Eclipse on August 21 in the USA - Plans, strategies, tips!

[Kayaker72]

I'll try to find some of the other references I used before 2012, but this covers a lot of ground.

http://www.mreclipse.com/SEphoto/SEphoto.html

Btw, I am planning on being in Idaho. Haven't pin point where just yet.

[alex]

These are all great replies, thanks for all the information guys.

I guess my overwhelming feeling right now is being torn about the idea of trying to shoot the eclipse. I don't for a second doubt what Jonathan is saying: first, that seeing a total eclipse will be unlike anything I've ever seen before and something I would really just want to take in, and second, that getting a shot that comes anywhere close to the actual experience is difficult at the least and impossible at the most.

But the challenge!

I think that's what is driving me to get a shot of it. I feel like a lot of my drive for my photography is kind of like trophy hunting. I got that shot that I really like, and I get to keep it, take it with me. I'm not a hunter, but that analogy might be close.

Maybe I'll just rent a 100-400mm lens and just shoot totality without a filter. Take 10-20 shots. Be a spectator the rest of the time.

[DavidEccleston]

Not that I've tried a CP when shooting towards the sun, but a CP is supposed to have greatest effect when shooting 90 degrees from the sun... so I would imagine in this case, a CP would have little to no effect. On the other hand, if nearly all the direct light is blocked, then perhaps all the remaining light in the landscape is scattered from an extreme angle, and a CP would have a large effect.

I think what you need to do is to convince B+H or another quality polarizing filter maker to do two side-by-side test shots during the eclipse, one with a filter, one without, and report on their findings. If it helps, they sell more filters next time. Seems like a wise investment of their time.

[HDNitehawk]

Not that I've tried a CP when shooting towards the sun, but a CP is supposed to have greatest effect when shooting 90 degrees from the sun... so I would imagine in this case, a CP would have little to no effect. On the other hand, if nearly all the direct light is blocked, then perhaps all the remaining light in the landscape is scattered from an extreme angle, and a CP would have a large effect.

I think what you need to do is to convince B+H or another quality polarizing filter maker to do two side-by-side test shots during the eclipse, one with a filter, one without, and report on their findings. If it helps, they sell more filters next time. Seems like a wise investment of their time.

During totality the light wouldn't be direct since you are in the shade. If it had no effect then I suppose it wouldn't be a negative using one and could only be a positive.

Possibly the scenario would be similar to sunset just as the sun drops below the horizon. That might be a good setting to practice with.

[Jonathan Huyer]

Being at a high point isn't essential, but if you're in a hilly area then it would certainly be an advantage. One important factor to consider is that you should have multiple options available for picking a Plan B location, in case clouds move in. Here is where I am going:
https://goo.gl/maps/wSP7zY95F8A2
It is right on the centre line, in a wide plain, with roads going in four directions in case we have to relocate in a hurry. Weather prospects here are just about as good as they get for the entire eclipse, but you can never count on that!

[Jonathan Huyer]

You wouldn't need a filter of any kind during totality, even for wide-angle landscapes. On my first eclipse in India in 1995, I took a wide-angle shot of the scene during totality. One of the cool things that I did not expect, is that you get a 360-degree sunset glow all around you when you are in the shadow of the moon. This picture "sort of" captures that. Granted it was taken with 50-speed slide film, and then scanned, so the quality is about as low as you can get. The corona of the sun is hopelessly overexposed, as you can see. This eclipse was only 60 seconds long, so I just pushed the button on the camera while watching the eclipse through binoculars.

[HDNitehawk]

I just asked for my friends West Yellowstone Cabin for the period, it is not a for sure thing yet but very likely. I have 8 of us in my family that may go, possibly others. The consensus is to go to the Tetons, it is just over a 2.5 hour drive from WY, and it is 1.8 to Idaho Falls. I think the plan will be to check the forecast in the morning, Tetons as the first choice with Idaho as a backup.

[Kayaker72]

Wow...I was originally just planning on coordinating my trip to see family in Idaho and heading south a little to check it out. But I might get a bit more serious with my planning.

Just looking at those three maps, if I were to plan a trip that include more than just the eclipse, the Oregon coast, Stanley basin in Idaho, or Teton/Yellowstone NPs come to mind.

And, this is more for my reference, but a guide.

[Kayaker72]

Hi Everyone....I received an email from BillW, who is having trouble with his account. He'd like to post the following:

I’m reading the solar eclipse thread and people are thinking of using their Big Stopper….I’ve done a little research on this and most of the opinions are against this because of the possibility of frying your sensor. If I remember correctly, the BS is measured at 1/10,000, while the Baader film is rated at 1/100,000 blocking power.

A better solution and relatively cheap is Baader Astrosolar safety film; https://www.adorama.com/searchsite/d...der+astrosolar

And here’s a link on how to make a DIY filter for your lenses…..especially the larger lenses; e.g. your 150-600, 500’s, etc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiDheBRZrg0

[Busted Knuckles]

Hi Everyone....I received an email from BillW, who is having trouble with his account. He'd like to post the following:

I’m reading the solar eclipse thread and people are thinking of using their Big Stopper….I’ve done a little research on this and most of the opinions are against this because of the possibility of frying your sensor. If I remember correctly, the BS is measured at 1/10,000, while the Baader film is rated at 1/100,000 blocking power.

A better solution and relatively cheap is Baader Astrosolar safety film; https://www.adorama.com/searchsite/d...der+astrosolar

And here’s a link on how to make a DIY filter for your lenses…..especially the larger lenses; e.g. your 150-600, 500’s, etc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiDheBRZrg0

Or my Russian 1100 I noticed I have a clear screw in/on filter that be used to support/protect