Yeah, but think about if a person was running 90 miles per hour, how many more leg/arm positions you could capture!
Cool picture.
I think P chooses the aperture for you based on the distance between what the autofocus points report, but I'd defer to your manual. I could be confused, and I've never actually used that mode. I usually prefer Av (sometimes with a little exposure compensation)or M.
dude.. the 40d's an amazing camera. i have a 5DmkII and my 40d still holds a special place in my heart. from everything i've read, the extra resolution gained by the 50d doesn't really gain you a whole lot once you take dynamic range and noise into consideration. the 40d takes great pictures, and has a great framerate. you get decent pictures even at ISO 800, and usable ones at 1600. it's solid, consistent/predictable, and can handle just about any situation you throw at it. you won't be disappointed. it's the best camera around to cut your teeth on, in my opinion.
Originally Posted by Colin
I think you're talking about A-DEP, automatic depth-of-field. Distance to all focus points is compared, and the camera selects an aperture that will keep all points in focus, then selects a shutter speed to work right.
P is Program. It's a manufacturer-programmed routine of aperture and shutter speed combinations based on the amount of light coming in. I don't see a chart in the 40D manual, but in my 1D Mark III manual (see Bryan's review, below the final text of the review, for a link to the PDF version) on page 189, there's a chart of how it works. Basically, in very low light, it uses the selected ISO and a wide-open aperture. Assuming you have an f/1.4 lens, at 1/50th of a second it becomes a linear progression: it goes faster by 1/3 stop, then shrinks the aperture opening by 1/3 stop, progressively until 1/8000th and f/18, and then proceeds to stop down the lens further if possible. I assume that the program picks up wherever the lens' maximum aperture lands. All in all, it's a reasonable routine for novice users (or users who are novice to a particular camera) that balances reasonable safety (camera shake is "just as likely" as too-thin DoF errors) with ease of operation. It usually allows "Program Override" - spinning the "Main Dial" or "Quick Control Dial" will take control (until the 6-second or 16-second timer expires, can't remember which).
I usually put cameras in P when my girlfriend or others are going to be using them. I just wish ISO Safety Shift was on more cameras and didn't appear to sacrifice so much buffer.
Realize though that P can be "dangerous" with flash, trending towards a "snapshot" or P&S look.
We're a Canon/Profoto family: five cameras, sixteen lenses, fifteen Profoto lights, too many modifiers.
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This was taken with 1st Body 1D MKII with EF300mm F4 L IS
Setting: 1/125 sec
F/32
ISO 400
Mannual Mode
Vale!!! One of my all-time favorite riders.
What track were you at when you took that shot? Also, I can tell you were tracking him because of the motion in the pavement, but was this a one-shot deal, or is this onein a series? If a series, which shot number in the series was it? In other words, how important was the available 8.5 fps in capturing this image?
HIFIGuY1: This shot was taken at Sepang Circuit in Malaysia MotoGP 08. This is one shot deal i was tracking him before he entered the final corner before pit straight .Of course i took another shot on the next lap. But this i consider a HOT SHOT.I took some shots 125cc and 250cc event i will try to post in the near future. Canon 1D MKii 8.5 fps so far has capture lot of moment and you have to invest on CF cards at the moment i used Sandisk IV 8 gig and took it on RAW.Of course 1D MKiii is the better choice because of it's battery life. My 1D have done a lot of assignment includes wedding,corporate events.But this series is build for action.At the moment i'm waiting for the new series i.e. MKIV that will be my next investment besides my 1Ds MKIII.
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