This is EXTREMELY frustrating!!! I THOUGHT my 100-400 was fine at 400 ...but now I am starting to doubt everything at this point! The thought of going thru and double-checking the micro-adjustments on all my lenses makes me want to crawl back in bed and stay there!
Denise
Originally Posted by tkerr
The focusing on screen idea seems like a great thing to try out except where my screen is currently set-up, I could not get far back enough from it with my camera to be able to do it. The room I have my computer set-up in is "L" shaped (bedroom/computer room) and the part the computer is in is very narrow.
Also, as a point to bring up from reading your link...when I go from regular to "live view" the focus point is not the same. Shouldn't it be focused EXACTLY in the same spot?!
I used the longway to get it there as it cost a lot to insure, but when they got it and I recieved info it was being processed, I think it was four days. I'm prolly wrong. I just remember I recieved an email saying it was done and the next morning it was at my door in an overnight package.
Words get in the way of what I meant to say.
You realize that when you get your 5DII(I) that your going to have to do this all over again for that camera?[]
Words get in the way of what I meant to say.
Odd indeed. I did start with a version of that test chart, before getting the LensAlign. The problem I had was getting the paper aligned to the camera, at a 45° angle. The other problem is youmight not be efficiently activating the high-precision f/2.8 sensor with that chart, since the focus target is a horizontal line (horizontal line sensors are f/5.6-sensitive). A 'starburst' pattern makes a better focus target, since it activates sensors in every orientation.
That might nor be fast enough to avoid motion blur - you need to account for the crop factor, meaning the 1/focal length rule gives you ~1/200 s as a guideline for handholding. But that's only a guideline - if you find the combination of 7D+135L on the heavy side, you may need to be at a faster shutter speed.
Denise
I was having similar problems when I first got the lensalign. Sometimes it seemed that the changes in the camera would have no effect. It was almost as if the camera would not read the immediate change. So I started turning the camera on and off each time I made a change, if I were shooting a series of shots. Did turning the camera on and off help, it seemed to eliminate that problem.
The next problem I had was consistency. Even small factors would affect results. Different lighting for example, would produce slightly different results. Elevation of the target compared to the camera could produce slightly different results. So I tried to eliminate all variables like variations in lighting, differences in angels and anything else I could see. When adjusting the AF system of the camera you are trying to get the highest average of pictures in focus rather than each individual picture sharp in focus. I tend to be a perfectionist, and setting the AF system is a thing that is proven more by the results after you go out and shoot than by the charts, I find that frustrating.
I have to echo what John said earlier. It might be time to invest in one of the versions of Lensalign. It would at least take out some of the variables and you could see what the lens/camera do in the exact same situation every time.
One question I would ask before I sent it to Canon. When they adjust for this lens, how does it effect the other lenses I have already set? It would be a shame if it came back and now you have a 135mm perfectly set and all the others have to be redone. I wish their service department was here in town, I would load up my whole kit and take to them.
Rick
I wouldn't think it would effect the other lenses(?) Unless, there is something drasticaly wrong with my camera that they have to fix. If they were local, I would most definitely pack it ALL up and hand it to them! Sure beats spending my entire weekend dealing with it!!
Since I purchased my camera on Feb. 14th, 2010, the warranty is about to end. Granted I still have an extended Best Buy warranty on it but I'd much rather be in Canon's hands! So with that and the fact not much going on here to shoot anyway, I have decided to pack up my camera and the 135L and maybe one other lens and ship them to Canon this coming week. I will tell Canon to check out the camera as a seperate issue and then the lens, then micro-adjust the lens to the camera. Same for any other lens I send them.
The main thing I want them to look at on the camera is the AF system. Is there anything else I should mention that could be the problem?
Denise
I would just inform Canon that I'm unable to obtain proper AF (no matter the MFA) when the lens and body are used.
Don't forget to provide the output of your tests as proof that there is indeed something wrong with this combo.
Side note: as long as Canon does not make any modifications to the lens or it may be difficult to return if you are still not happy with the output.
fingers crossed
Canon 450D Gripped, Canon 24-105 f/4L, Canon 70-200 f/2.8L IS USM II, Sigma 10-20 EX f/4-5.6, Canon S95
“There are always two people in every picture: the photographer and the viewer.” -Ansel Adams
OMG! That's a scary thought!
So, to send gear to Canon do I just fill out the online form and mail it to them? Do I need to contact them first?
Denise
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